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Opinions on Gun Cleaning Solvents and Methods

I was at the rifle range a few days ago and a guy shooting next to me asked about the controversial topic of "cleaning a rifle" since he was apparently new to the sport and was confused about all the solvents and methods and their claims on the net. Maybe gazing at my target caused him to ask me the question but if it was, it was a poor reason to ask me.

I always enjoy trying to help fellow shooters, but this is one area I shy away. However, I didn't want to respond with a terse or flippant reply, so my guarded response was a quote from one of Sinclair's Old catalogs. "All the solvents we carry will work to clean your rifle. Some work better than others for removing copper, while others attack both copper and carbon equally well. Hall of Fame Benchrest shooters have argued over the merits of one solvent vs. another but all these shooters continue to shoot well as long as they have a clean gun. Inevitably it ends up being a choice of what you think works best for you."

In other words, I do not have a clue which is the best solvent on the market, or which method is best, only what works for me and my shooting requirements. Of course, this was not the "silver bullet" answer he was seeking. I reluctantly shared my philosophy and method but cautioned him that I am not a competitive shooter. I suggested that he select a solvent, follow the instructions, select a cleaning cycle (fired rounds), then evaluate the effectiveness by the results on target.

How do you guys handle this question if asked?
I tell them Get a bore scope but after that I will start using your great answer
This opening post and Dave's below it are practically priceless.

Thanks for posting.
 
I better take the bottle of Hoppe’s off the bench.

I find Hoppes great for getting bulk soot and lube and crap out of handguns. I bought a large bottle (maybe a quart?) back in the 80's, and still have over half of it left (I did take an extended break from shooting - like 25 years or so.) Since it's there, it's cheaper than using my normal rifle solvents for stuff that (if needed) could be scraped away. Should be noted that I was (and remain) of the mind that my handguns only need cleaning when function was compromised (bullseye shooter - used to shoot every day, but am now shooting pretty much only on weekends.)

Interesting story about Hoppes, though: Friend of mine swore by Hoppe's #9 (the original stuff) and said that nothing works better for cleaning any firearm around. I asked him to thoroughly clean a freshly shot rifle with #9, then go over it again with Boretech Eliminator. He never told me exactly what happened, but converted to Eliminator shortly after. I guess old dogs can learn new tricks.
 
So a buddy gave me a bottle of BoreTech Copper Eliminator to try, and it appears that I will never get all the copper out of my bore. I haven't yet been able to finish with a clean patch that doesn't show blue. :confused:
jd
 
So a buddy gave me a bottle of BoreTech Copper Eliminator to try, and it appears that I will never get all the copper out of my bore. I haven't yet been able to finish with a clean patch that doesn't show blue. :confused:
jd

Are you using a non-brass jag/brush (or bronze in the brush's case)? And rod (the ferrules the tip screws into are often brass.) Any of those will give a false positive.

That said, older barrels with firecracking will build copper within the cracks, and will always show blue.
 
Are you using a non-brass jag/brush (or bronze in the brush's case)? And rod (the ferrules the tip screws into are often brass.) Any of those will give a false positive.

That said, older barrels with firecracking will build copper within the cracks, and will always show blue.
I'm using the black nylon brush, I think by Dewey. They actually do have a brass wire and threaded brass ferrule. -- Now I'm starting to feel kinda dumb. :rolleyes: jd
 
I find Hoppes great for getting bulk soot and lube and crap out of handguns. I bought a large bottle (maybe a quart?) back in the 80's, and still have over half of it left (I did take an extended break from shooting - like 25 years or so.) Since it's there, it's cheaper than using my normal rifle solvents for stuff that (if needed) could be scraped away. Should be noted that I was (and remain) of the mind that my handguns only need cleaning when function was compromised (bullseye shooter - used to shoot every day, but am now shooting pretty much only on weekends.)

Interesting story about Hoppes, though: Friend of mine swore by Hoppe's #9 (the original stuff) and said that nothing works better for cleaning any firearm around. I asked him to thoroughly clean a freshly shot rifle with #9, then go over it again with Boretech Eliminator. He never told me exactly what happened, but converted to Eliminator shortly after. I guess old dogs can learn new tricks.
Before I had a borescope, I also did the 'clean with a bronze brush and Hoppes until the patches come out clean - then use Boretech' test.
No question more dark stuff came out on the patch with Boretech.

After seeing how much carbon is left even after a bronze brush with Boretech C4, it seems it doesn't really matter what solvent is used with the bronze brush. To get the remaining carbon out it always takes an abrasive.
 
I do not disagree since this must be so because everyone swears by it. My cleaning process is about as simple and inexpensive as you could ever envision.

With thousands of rounds down 11 different rifles, I think I will just keep doing what I am doing until my shots on target go sideways. Also, I am in the late winter of my shooting career.

PS: The few times I looked down the bores of my rifles with my smith's scope, I went home and had a few fingers of Maker's Mark to forget that horror movie. I felt better after the next visit to the range when my shots were on par with my relatively modest goals. ;)

Helping my 80yr old friend I observed a major carbon ring to address a problem, now he ordered a borescope. You're never too old to avoid a problem.
 
A renowned BR shooter I know still uses Hoppes and wins quite often. Go figure!
2,014 ground hogs and over 100 predators would agree, Hoppe's 9 with a bronze brush is deadly! ;) :rolleyes::)

PS: No, I am don't own stock in Hoppe's nor am I a salesman for them.
 
I still really like one comment I got here when asked about cleaning -

If you are hopefully lost in the woods with no chance of finding your way out .... sit down and start cleaning your rifle. In about 5 minutes, someone will show up and tell you, you are doing it completely wrong !
 
Before I had a borescope, I also did the 'clean with a bronze brush and Hoppes until the patches come out clean - then use Boretech' test.
No question more dark stuff came out on the patch with Boretech.

After seeing how much carbon is left even after a bronze brush with Boretech C4, it seems it doesn't really matter what solvent is used with the bronze brush. To get the remaining carbon out it always takes an abrasive.
I used C4 for a time and there was no doubt in my experience that it does a great, if not superior, job removing carbon. Similar results with Cu+2 for copper.

However, these solvents left some sort of residue behind that was difficult to remove as evidenced by the threads on the jag. That in itself was not a problem but the clean barrel flyers and the need to re-condition the bore with several "fouling" shots before desire POI was re-established was a problem, at least for me.

That doesn't happen with No. 9. and a bronze brush. I just wonder if, because my rifles are tuned to that method of cleaning, (bore condition), is that the reason I am getting consistent shots on target? I should mention that I clean every 50 to 60 rounds and my shot sequences are all cool / cold barrel shots even in range practice.
 
I used C4 for a time and there was no doubt in my experience that it does a great, if not superior, job removing carbon. Similar results with Cu+2 for copper.

However, these solvents left some sort of residue behind that was difficult to remove as evidenced by the threads on the jag. That in itself was not a problem but the clean barrel flyers and the need to re-condition the bore with several "fouling" shots before desire POI was re-established was a problem, at least for me.

That doesn't happen with No. 9. and a bronze brush. I just wonder if, because my rifles are tuned to that method of cleaning, (bore condition), is that the reason I am getting consistent shots on target? I should mention that I clean every 50 to 60 rounds and my shot sequences are all cool / cold barrel shots even in range practice.
Hmm. When I run out of C4, I'll try some Hoppes again.
 
Clean barrels are like brushing your teeth lots of brush options (cleaning rods) and lots of toothpaste options (solvents) so whatever works best for you as long as you do it.
 
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Short range Benchrest Shooters probably clean rifles more than any one. Most, like myself, automatically clean after every group. In a way, it has become as much of a habit as anything.

That might be why many of us get away with using nothing more than a proven solvent like Butches Bore Shine, a bronze brush, and patches.

Also, I never take a barrel home dirty. The first thing I do when I leave the line, either while practicing, or at a match, is clean it, preferably while the barrel is still warm. It only takes two fouling rounds to put it back where it is shooting competitively .

In short, my best advice is if you want to keep the barrel clean, avoid letting it get really fouled up in the first place. Sure, it takes a little more effort to lug that cleaning equipment to the range, but it seems to be worth the effort.

I know it sounds unrealistic, I have fellow club members see us at our home range and seem amazed that we load at the range and clean at the range.

As for shooting Disciplines where a shooter cannot clean, even after dozens of rounds, I have no opinion.
 
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