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How many firings

I wondering how many firings you guys get out of your brass before you may retire them. Do you let the brass tell you this by signs like loose primer pockets or visual signs like neck splitting. I usually anneal my brass after 3 firings. Thanks
 
Another one of those "it depends" answers....

Some brass can't go more than a few loadings when the context is semi-auto and higher pressure.

Make a few changes with the context, like the pressure of the recipe, and the dies and sizing methods, annealing, etc., and that same brass can go 14 or more cycles. So, this question is another it depends scenario.

A good bolt gun with reasonable pressure and good reloading techniques can go over 20 cycles before primer pockets let go or brass fatigue shows up as neck splits... and everything in between.

Neck life can be extended with annealing and the choices we make when sizing. Primer pockets can be gaged. ICHS (Incipient Case Head Separation) can be detected with a probe and some skill.

All of the sizing issues and choices of dies. chambers, and pressure choices, etc., ... all of these things change the answers the importance of case inspection is a key part of the skill set no matter what the context.

Name your specific context and you might get a better perspective from the forum's wide experience base.
 
I primarily shoot 223 bolt rifles and FL each time (bumping the shoulder only when necessary) and do not anneal. Each rifle had a set of dedicated cases, same brand and I always start with new unfired cases. I carefully inspect every case before reloading for signs of fatigue or incipient separation.

I get about 15 to 18 reloads depending on the brand of brass and rifle. Spilt necks are usually the first sign that the cases should be retired. As matter of procedure, I retire cases after 18 reloads regardless of whether I observe signs of fatigue.

I never had had loose primer pockets and would be concerned if I had since this usually and indicator of high pressure.
 
If your chamber, brass and dies are well-matched, brass can last a loooonnnngggg time. I'm running 6 Dasher (Lapua) brass that looks like it will never quit. It shoots great, sizes easily and smoothly and chambers like new brass. I anneal after every firing.

If the chamber is oversized relative to the brass and dies, it won't last nearly as long. I have a .308 hunting rifle that fits this description. Work hardening toward the base renders the brass unreliable after six or seven cycles.

So, it depends.
 
Had to go to the Garage and have a smoke before I started this ; and I can just hear some of the comments coming back already .
I started my journey in FTR seven years ago ; with just over 650 Lapua SRP cases , 200 S&B primers , and five lbs. of H-4895 .
All the standard TR powders were tried , and found to be adequate , each in their own right , and like all new shooters as my loading skills improved , so did my scores .
Having spent most of my working life-time in the Machine Trades of Aero-space , and Tool & Die work , I had a advantage working with Brass , and put that knowledge to work , regarding case-life , and processing .

My original 650+ cases now have over thirty-five reloads on them , and they are used primarily as "Practice" cases . I anneal after every firing , and only "Bump" .001 when resizing .
I do not shoot "Monster" loads , but work within velocity parameters of from 2620fps , up to a desired 2660 to 2670 max for a 185gr Berger Jugg Target . I did learn that shooting heavier Bullets , such as the 200gr Hybrid , and the 200.20x , not only shorten Barrel life , but also shorten Case life , so there is that trade-off .
Having a good tight Chamber , Diametrically ; is crucial to longer Brass life , just as much as how you process your Brass . With that in mind ; one of the things I watch closely is Case Diameters at around the .200 line , which gives me warning that the Barrel is getting closer to replacement time .
As primer pockets have enlarged ; But the Case is for all purposes still very useable , I have begun using the Unis-Ginex primers , to allow more use of the case . They are slightly over-sized from American Primers , and give a few more reloads , with no foreseeable difference on Target . Just a little higher overall velocity with my load .
I am somewhat OCD on prep , and maybe that's why my Brass only grows from .001 - .003 , after three or four firings . Tight Dies . Tight Chambers from Manson Reamers , and OCD Prep .
 
I wondering how many firings you guys get out of your brass before you may retire them. Do you let the brass tell you this by signs like loose primer pockets or visual signs like neck splitting. I usually anneal my brass after 3 firings. Thanks
All this. Your brass will tell you what's going on. Always check for primer tightness, case head separation line, measure for brass stretching, excessive pressure. Pretty much your brass tell you everything.
 
The number of rounds on a barrel varies with each Barrel , and the Caliber . Most TR shooters are generally aware that their Barrel may begin losing accuracy from anywhere of 2,500 rounds and up . My data collection also shows that the Brass will begin growing in Diameter by .0005 in my Barrels anywhere from 2,100 rounds and up . This means that as the gun fires , the Case expands , and also expands the diameter of the Barrel , and since the Detonation occurs from the rear to the front , , that expansion will cause the most negative effect towards the rear of the case . Expanded case at the .200 line , and expanded primer pockets . Of course the Barrel does it's normal spring-back , to a useable diameter , but this is also the reason that cases fired multiple times in a Target Barrel will not fit in a newly-cut Barrel , even though the same reamer was used to cut both barrels . The Brass has maintained more of the "Expanded" Diameter from repetition firings . Thus the need for Small Base and Ring Dies .
 
If your chamber, brass and dies are well-matched, brass can last a loooonnnngggg time. I'm running 6 Dasher (Lapua) brass that looks like it will never quit. It shoots great, sizes easily and smoothly and chambers like new brass. I anneal after every firing.

If the chamber is oversized relative to the brass and dies, it won't last nearly as long. I have a .308 hunting rifle that fits this description. Work hardening toward the base renders the brass unreliable after six or seven cycles.

So, it depends.
Agree if the chamber is done right along with good brass and sizing die it will last longer than most will expect. I have some 30BR brass with @ 20 firings on it and it still going strong with no signs of fatigue or failure. And I don't anneal.
 
Agree if the chamber is done right along with good brass and sizing die it will last longer than most will expect
Very true. I have some Laupa brass the I shoot in my 6BR that is built on a Rem 700 action. I've got over 22 firings and still going good, and some Norma brass that I shoot in another 6BR I have built on a Sako A11 action with 16 firings on them and still going good.
 
The number of rounds on a barrel varies with each Barrel , and the Caliber . Most TR shooters are generally aware that their Barrel may begin losing accuracy from anywhere of 2,500 rounds and up . My data collection also shows that the Brass will begin growing in Diameter by .0005 in my Barrels anywhere from 2,100 rounds and up . This means that as the gun fires , the Case expands , and also expands the diameter of the Barrel , and since the Detonation occurs from the rear to the front , , that expansion will cause the most negative effect towards the rear of the case . Expanded case at the .200 line , and expanded primer pockets . Of course the Barrel does it's normal spring-back , to a useable diameter , but this is also the reason that cases fired multiple times in a Target Barrel will not fit in a newly-cut Barrel , even though the same reamer was used to cut both barrels . The Brass has maintained more of the "Expanded" Diameter from repetition firings . Thus the need for Small Base and Ring Dies .
I too clean and anneal @ time and have 30+ loads on some Peterson 6BR brass with 30+ cycles and they show no sign of needing to be retired.
As for the .200 line so far they have not needed to run through my rollsizer but I have had to use it for some .280AI cases that were fired in a chamber that was made with the same reamer that my other rifle was...
Clickers from the second load... That chamber was the first one by that reamer, the second chamber has never had that problem... This happened with the same brass lot, same powder, bullets and primers.
Different make barrels and smiths though.
I have a friend that has problems with chambering his new batch of Alpha 6-Dasher brass after just fire forming whereas his Lapua brass has never had an issue... Rollsizing has fixed his issue.
Small base dies can only get so much squeeze on the case and there is always going to be that area just at or just below the .200 line that they cannot touch.
All said and done, I find that annealing @ time keeps the necks in top shape and primer pockets will fail before the necks. Bumping the shoulder only a thou or two at most also will minimize the case stretching that leads to thinning and head separation...
 
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Thanks for all the comments. FYI I reload for .22 Hornet, .223, .20 Tactical, 6mmBR. I am getting in the 20 Range on 6Br and 20 Tac and the amount started making me think. I do anneal after 2-3 firings. I really like the consistency that annealing gives. I also FL size.
 
Unless you have a custom die, full-length sizing will tend to wear your brass out much faster. Annealing, as you do will help a lot with the split necks - but you will tend to see signs of case separation much sooner, assuming your primer pockets are still good. On my 6 Br, I have brass with over 30 firings on them, though I don't run mine to the redline and I use custom dies in those that I do full-length size. In my semi-autos, I do run warm loads and tend to retire the brass after about six loadings, on average. One can wear brass out after only a few firings - and one can go scores of loading in a bolt gun - just depends on your sizer choice, how hot you load and how tight you keep your headspace. Of course - brass quality does come into play as well.
 

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