Recoil lug bedding problem

[deltaoutdoorsman]

I have attempted to bed the recoil lug in a Stainless Winchester Classic Model 70 three times and keep getting the same result and it’s a real head scratcher for me. The bedding compound will not release from the rear of the lug and tears it out of the stock each time.
First time I used acraglass kit and it was hard to work with but I think I would have gotten a good result. I masked the sides and front of lug with electrical tape and used the release agent in the kit. When I removed the stock the bedding on the rear of the lug came out of the stock on the lug. Smooth and perfect square.
Second attempt. I used Devon and turtle wax hardshell as a release agent. Polished the rear of the lug and roughed up the stock where the adhesion failed. Same result. But much harder to remove stock and the epoxy came out jagged and some stayed in but most came out with lug.
Third attempt. Fully inspected lug. It is not larger on the bottom that would make it wedge in. It is smooth. I drilled several holes in stock where adhesion failed. Used probed 2000 kit with release agent that came with it.
Same result but just about did not get it to separate. Jagged chunk of epoxy came out on center of rear lug bearing surface.
It has really adhered to lug. Just like I used no release agent and meant to glue it.
Had to sand off. Would not pop off with scraper.
I’m at a loss. This is only my fourth rifle to bed so I’m no expert but the first three were fine on first attempt and great results. I just did what the kit said and things worked out.
Why in the heck will the epoxy not release from rear of lug.
Any ideas is appreciated.

 

[hogpatrol]

I use Kiwi neutral shoe polish, and polish/buff it with a soft rag. Never had one stick. You may have something else going on, like the lug not perfectly perpendicular.

Amazon.com

 

[Bc'z]

I use Hornady 1 Shot after buffing the part with wax/shoe polish.

 

[CjC73]

Just did one yesterday. Jb weld and shoe polish. I don't polish it once applied, just smooth it out. One little whack with rubber mallet and came free. Only my second one I've done.

 

[hogpatrol]

If you want to try another compound, use Marine Tex. Mix it by weight and let it set up somewhat before applying.

Amazon.com

 

[Walt Krafft]

The back of the lug is not square to the bottem of the receiver. Use a file to dress the lug so it is square to a little positive taper not the negative taper it has now. Also make sure it has no ridges or groovesor burrs to trap it. Use sandpaper on a block to polish it.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Never had much trouble but you might form a little radius in the corner with something like clay or caulk just to get rid of the sharp corner next time

 

[joshb]

We need pics. I’ve done a few and never had one stick like you describe. I sounds like you’re not using enough release agent in that area. I use Butcher’s wax, simply because it was left over from my job.

 

[Big Mc]

I have attempted to bed the recoil lug in a Stainless Winchester Classic Model 70 three times and keep getting the same result and it’s a real head scratcher for me. The bedding compound will not release from the rear of the lug and tears it out of the stock each time.
First time I used acraglass kit and it was hard to work with but I think I would have gotten a good result. I masked the sides and front of lug with electrical tape and used the release agent in the kit. When I removed the stock the bedding on the rear of the lug came out of the stock on the lug. Smooth and perfect square.
Second attempt. I used Devon and turtle wax hardshell as a release agent. Polished the rear of the lug and roughed up the stock where the adhesion failed. Same result. But much harder to remove stock and the epoxy came out jagged and some stayed in but most came out with lug.
Third attempt. Fully inspected lug. It is not larger on the bottom that would make it wedge in. It is smooth. I drilled several holes in stock where adhesion failed. Used probed 2000 kit with release agent that came with it.
Same result but just about did not get it to separate. Jagged chunk of epoxy came out on center of rear lug bearing surface.
It has really adhered to lug. Just like I used no release agent and meant to glue it.
Had to sand off. Would not pop off with scraper.
I’m at a loss. This is only my fourth rifle to bed so I’m no expert but the first three were fine on first attempt and great results. I just did what the kit said and things worked out.
Why in the heck will the epoxy not release from rear of lug.
Any ideas is appreciated.

Use some Pam cooking spray. Eggs dont stick neither will the lug. Tommy Mc

 

[6MMsteve]

your draft is not drafty, somewhere it's reversed, or a tiny radius with a welp

 

[LHSmith]

You don't mention taping the bottom of the lug. I use 3 layers on the bottom to ensure it never bottoms out when assembled. Best to use aftermarket lugs as they are ground flat and tapered on sides to eliminate capture.

 

[drover]

It is a Win mod 70, the recoil lug is part of the action.

drover

 

[joshb]

It is a Win mod 70, the recoil lug is part of the action.

drover

Yup! Most of us know that.

 

[ShtrRdy]

There must be a slight angle on the lug that's locking the bedding compound on. I can't imagine how much force it took to get it out of the stock.

 

[boltfluter]

The back of the lug is not square to the bottem of the receiver. Use a file to dress the lug so it is square to a little positive taper not the negative taper it has now. Also make sure it has no ridges or groovesor burrs to trap it. Use sandpaper on a block to polish it.

Something like this is the first place to look. Keep us posted.
Paul

 

[Tommie]

I agree this is a problem with geometry, not prep.

 

[deltaoutdoorsman]

I mic’ed the lug and it’s 0.002” thicker at the bottom than at the top. It is chamfered already so it appeared to taper however it tapers up 2 thou so that is most likely my problem.
I filed it to have a negative taper like it should. Will hopefully have time to bed it tonight and will know in a couple of days.

 

[AlNyhus]

I always check that on Models 70's...have seen them up to .005 reverse tapered. Have never see one that measured smaller on the bottom. Go back with the Pro Bed.

Good shootin' .-Al

 

[Uncle Bruce]

I always check that on Models 70's...have seen them up to .005 reverse tapered. Have never see one that measured smaller on the bottom. Go back with the Pro Bed.

Good shootin' .-Al

After you got the action out of the stock, when it broke the wood, did you have any bedding material stuck on the front or sides of the lug? I am sorry if you said that already but if your prep was good after it broke up the wood it should have come off the back of the lug with no problem.
Someone let me know if I am all wet.

 

[AlNyhus]

After you got the action out of the stock, when it broke the wood, did you have any bedding material stuck on the front or sides of the lug? I am sorry if you said that already but if your prep was good after it broke up the wood it should have come off the back of the lug with no problem.
Someone let me know if I am all wet.

I've never had problems with actions releasing. -Al