Grinding die to reduce cam over???

[swd]

Years ago I had friend with an RCBS die that wouldn’t set the shoulder back. He lived an hour or so from RCBS so he drove up and told a guy at the counter what was up. The guy took the die in back and took it to a belt sander and gave it a good rip on the belt sander and handed it back to him.. No measurements or anything, lol

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Years ago I had friend with an RCBS die that wouldn’t set the shoulder back. He lived an hour or so from RCBS so he drove up and told a guy at the counter what was up. The guy took the die in back and took it to a belt sander and gave it a good rip on the belt sander and handed it back to him.. No measurements or anything, lol

Dang, a little overboard on the KISS rule.

 

[swd]

Dang, a little overboard on the KISS rule.

True story too! He also knew the guys there pretty well.

 

[Fast14riot]

Redding dies I've noticed are generally on the long side. You could try feeler gauge/shim stock under the case head to get the next .001" or .002" of shoulder bump you need. I grind most of my shell holders for redding dies and always dedicate a shell holder per die set. My 260AI shell holder has had 0.015" of deck height removed after I measured it and found it to be over the 0.125" spec. My die does not contact the shell holder at all as I don't like that.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Dang, a little overboard on the KISS rule.

Why so? Clearance is clearance, right? I get it but still. I like it. That stuff is hard as heck to cut, even with carbide and the finish is tough to make great anyway. Lol! I like smart ways of getting to the desired end is all.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Why so? Clearance is clearance, right? I get it but still. I like it. That stuff is hard as heck to cut, even with carbide and the finish is tough to make great anyway. Lol! I like smart ways of getting to the desired end is all.

I agree with you on getting it done, but you would think they could have put a rule of some kind on there to check their progress.

 

[bozo699]

Agreed. Ok to have a dedicated shell holder to go with that die. Atleast then if you replace the barrel and realize you no longer need the extra clearance you don’t have to buy a new die. Just go back to a standard shell holder.

Could also use the Redding competition Shellholders kit that offered various thicknesses to get you exactly what you need.

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Redding competition shell holders goes the opposite direction he needs to go.
Wayne

 

[bozo699]

I'd grind the shell holder


View attachment 1554226

Mark,
Doesn’t putting a regular shell holder in a coax press kinda take away how the coax was designed?…. Just asking idk. Can it still float that way?
Wayne

 

[Richard Jones]

Mark,
Doesn’t putting a regular shell holder in a coax press kinda take away how the coax was designed?…. Just asking idk. Can it still float that way?
Wayne

Mine is set up this way as well. i think the 'float factor' is even better than the jaws allow. The shellholder is not held snugly in the base plate, so it can move quite a bit. I never liked the jaws and replaced them with the shellholder plate as soon as I possibly could. To me, there's just too many advantages to a shellholder that the jaws don't offer.

Design? Well, Forster sells the base plate as well as the jaws, so not sure if that tracks. The CoAx was also designed to have priming capability, which I have never used. If something doesn't work for me/you, regardless of the design, change it or replace it.

Sorry if this sounds preachy, I sure don't mean it like that. We all mod stuff to satisfy our particular itch....

 

[quest450]

Mark,
Doesn’t putting a regular shell holder in a coax press kinda take away how the coax was designed?…. Just asking idk. Can it still float that way?
Wayne

I use my co-ax exclusively for depriming all sizing work is done on my Prazi

 

[bozo699]

Mine is set up this way as well. i think the 'float factor' is even better than the jaws allow. The shellholder is not held snugly in the base plate, so it can move quite a bit. I never liked the jaws and replaced them with the shellholder plate as soon as I possibly could. To me, there's just too many advantages to a shellholder that the jaws don't offer.

Design? Well, Forster sells the base plate as well as the jaws, so not sure if that tracks. The CoAx was also designed to have priming capability, which I have never used. If something doesn't work for me/you, regardless of the design, change it or replace it.

Sorry if this sounds preachy, I sure don't mean it like that. We all mod stuff to satisfy our particular itch....

Thank you Richard.
I don’t have mine setup yet on my new bench but I think I’ll order that and try it, also want to try the new arms that allow more access .
Wayne

 

[bozo699]

I use my co-ax exclusively for depriming all sizing work is done on my Prazi

Do you have the 120 or 140? I would like to buy one but haven’t decided which one. I do have a 50 but I have the big rcbs to load it on if I need to. The biggest I would probably load on it would be .338 imp.
Wayne

 

[quest450]

Do you have the 120 or 140? I would like to buy one but haven’t decided which one. I do have a 50 but I have the big rcbs to load it on if I need to. The biggest I would probably load on it would be .338 imp.
Wayne

I have the 120 and absolutely love it, it is very gutentight and a piece of typical German over engineering I use it with Warner dies, it's kinda match made in heaven

 

[NorCalMikie]

Yes, you can take a bit from either place, bottom of the die or the top of the shell holder. Only problem with taking it from the shell holder is it becomes dedicated is all. No biggie but I prefer to remove it from the die, myself, for that reason only.

and taking a bit off the "die" doesn't make IT dedicated???
Shell holders are what $20.00?? Verses another set of dies that will be only good for you??
Shell holder chucked up in as drill press or drill motor with a large enough chuck to hold it, run down on a well oiled sharpening stone, (measured first) to the thickness YOU want. Dedicated, marked and stashed so it doesn't get mixed up with a stock (unmodified) unit.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

and taking a bit off the "die" doesn't make IT dedicated???

No sir. It doesn't.

 

[rkb21]

Do you have the 120 or 140? I would like to buy one but haven’t decided which one. I do have a 50 but I have the big rcbs to load it on if I need to. The biggest I would probably load on it would be .338 imp.
Wayne

Wayne
You should buy the 140 gives a little extra room to work with.

Ron

 

[bozo699]

Wayne
You should buy the 140 gives a little extra room to work with.

Ron

Thank you my friend.
Wayne

 

[6MMsteve]

u can grind like .040 off the bottom of the die, the inner chamfer on the die does nothing, I done this the other day it works much better than shell holder grinding....be better to chuck in a Lathe and remove, but I don't have a lathe

 

[Link]

If the shell holder or die are ground even a little uneven, would that make bumperover cattywampus? Effecting brass straightness.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

If the shell holder or die are ground even a little uneven, would that make bumperover cattywampus? Effecting brass straightness.

I do prefer slight cam over, to take up any slack in the linkage. I don't think it's any straighter, but bump is more consistent, ime. Lots of people remove some material without any problems so both ways apparently work fine. Not all presses cam over either..fwiw.