Seeking advice

[Fire Dog]

What do you use for de-priming? I'll most likely be purchasing a nice hand priming tool for priming

Harvey Deprimer.... Just set a TV tray in my lap, a bucket for the deprimed brass and a bag of brass to be deprimed and can watch my favorite program as you can just feel the depriming pin slip in the flash hole, one squeeze and on to the next piece... Or just sit out on the front porch on a nice day and watch the garden...
"When the world wearies, and society fails to satisfy.... There is always the garden."

 

[Fclassfool]

Harvey Deprimer.... Just set a TV tray in my lap, a bucket for the deprimed brass and a bag of brass to be deprimed and can watch my favorite program as you can just feel the depriming pin slip in the flash hole, one squeeze and on to the next piece... Or just sit out on the front porch on a nice day and watch the garden...
"When the world wearies, and society fails to satisfy.... There is always the garden."

I do the same except with the Frankford one.

 

[Swatman05]

Looks like the Co-Ax Press sold..

 

[Fire Dog]

Looks like the Co-Ax Press sold..

"He who hesitates, is lost...." or perhaps... "A day late and a dollar short"

 

[bozo699]

Looks like the Co-Ax Press sold..

You can’t procrastinate in this game, hope you find what you’re looking for.
Wayne

 

[mgunderson]

Try them both. As I look at a few decades of reloading, my preference and tastes have changed. A single stage is really nice for smaller batches. A progressive is nice for larger quantities. Turret is somewhere in between. Try them all and learn. You can buy and sell a used press and often not loose much more than the shipping cost. My preference changes by caliber and the process. I would rather try and learn than wonder if something was a better choice.

 

[bozo699]

Try them both. As I look at a few decades of reloading, my preference and tastes have changed. A single stage is really nice for smaller batches. A progressive is nice for larger quantities. Turret is somewhere in between. Try them all and learn. You can buy and sell a used press and often not loose much more than the shipping cost. My preference changes by caliber and the process. I would rather try and learn than wonder if something was a better choice.

That’s why I have them all!…. Stated perfectly sir.
Wayne

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Looks like the Co-Ax Press sold..

Maybe that’s a sign the Co-Ax wasn’t the one you needed.

 

[Wild Bill IV]

Sometimes you just have to test the limits of your gear...... I had just tried a new "spray on" lube. Dang stuff.

Just a little advice from an old precision reloader!!! Take it or leave it!! Your choise!!!

I experimented with sprays and it cost more and is a big waste of oil!! The rub on lubes contain wool oil or wool wax!!! These lubes generally contain Stearic acid which is common to most animal fats and oils!!! The acidity of this oil is much higher than petroleum based pressure oils!!! Plus, it slows the reloading process!!!

As a reloader for over 40 years, I would recommend using high pressure case lubes!! For the cost of 2 spray lubes, you can get a bottle of high pressue case lube and a lube pad!!! I'm still using my one and only bottle of Bonanza lube purchased 40 years ago ($2.00) and still have over a third left and have reloaded over 15000 rounds!! There will probably some oil left in that bottle when a die!! Depending on the amount of reloading, a bottle could last a lifetime!! Mind you, that around 80% were small cases like 22 Hornet, 222, 223, and 22-250!!!

The secret to conserving the oil is simple!!! Have a feel for you sizing operation!!! Outside lube the first 5 cases and lightly scrap each case mouth over the pad while rotating it to lightly lube the inside close to the mouth! I use a 5/8" thick strip of wood to elevate the base so the fronts of the neck and case body are lightly oiled!! Resize these 5 cases in your clean die to lube the die and expander!!! Then run dry cases until you feel a little more pressure in the press!! Stop with the stroke, and lube the case and finish sizing it!! Run another lubed case in, then run dry cases until you feel the resistance again!!! Repeat the process!!! NOTE: If the last case extraction from the die or expander required more force on the press handle, STOP and run 2 more lubed cases in the sizing oprtation!! I've had 2 events where it sized without much effort, but had near stuck cases in the die!!! Keep a good feeling in both directions of the press handle!!!

I clean the oil off the cases with acetone in the garage and set the cases in the sun for a couple of hours!! Use a towel on a tray and rotate the cases 180° after the 1st hour in the hot sun!!!

It only takes 2 to 3 drops to saturate the conditioned pad!!! Have an old deck of plastic coated playing cards in your reloading supplies!!! Use a card to lightly trowel the oil drops over the pad surface of the working area!!! Trowel immediately after adding the drops to the pad or they will soak into the pad!! The whole pad doesn't need to be lubed!!! Below is a picture of that bottle and the old RCBS lube pad!!

 

[Swatman05]

"He who hesitates, is lost...." or perhaps... "A day late and a dollar short"

I was definitely a dollar short.. LOL

 

[searcher]

Just a little advice from an old precision reloader!!! Take it or leave it!! Your choise!!!

I experimented with sprays and it cost more and is a big waste of oil!! The rub on lubes contain wool oil or wool wax!!! These lubes generally contain Stearic acid which is common to most animal fats and oils!!! The acidity of this oil is much higher than petroleum based pressure oils!!! Plus, it slows the reloading process!!!

As a reloader for over 40 years, I would recommend using high pressure case lubes!! For the cost of 2 spray lubes, you can get a bottle of high pressue case lube and a lube pad!!! I'm still using my one and only bottle of Bonanza lube purchased 40 years ago ($2.00) and still have over a third left and have reloaded over 15000 rounds!! There will probably some oil left in that bottle when a die!! Depending on the amount of reloading, a bottle could last a lifetime!! Mind you, that around 80% were small cases like 22 Hornet, 222, 223, and 22-250!!!

The secret to conserving the oil is simple!!! Have a feel for you sizing operation!!! Outside lube the first 5 cases and lightly scrap each case mouth over the pad while rotating it to lightly lube the inside close to the mouth! I use a 5/8" thick strip of wood to elevate the base so the fronts of the neck and case body are lightly oiled!! Resize these 5 cases in your clean die to lube the die and expander!!! Then run dry cases until you feel a little more pressure in the press!! Stop with the stroke, and lube the case and finish sizing it!! Run another lubed case in, then run dry cases until you feel the resistance again!!! Repeat the process!!! NOTE: If the last case extraction from the die or expander required more force on the press handle, STOP and run 2 more lubed cases in the sizing oprtation!! I've had 2 events where it sized without much effort, but had near stuck cases in the die!!! Keep a good feeling in both directions of the press handle!!!

I clean the oil off the cases with acetone in the garage and set the cases in the sun for a couple of hours!! Use a towel on a tray and rotate the cases 180° after the 1st hour in the hot sun!!!

It only takes 2 to 3 drops to saturate the conditioned pad!!! Have an old deck of plastic coated playing cards in your reloading supplies!!! Use a card to lightly trowel the oil drops over the pad surface of the working area!!! Trowel immediately after adding the drops to the pad or they will soak into the pad!! The whole pad doesn't need to be lubed!!! Below is a picture of that bottle and the old RCBS lube pad!!

Yeah - one would probably think I am a rookie, having broken the handle on a press with a stuck case. I've actually been reloading for 53 years now, having used a large number of presses and just about every lube known to the shooting world at one time or another. With a press like a rock chucker or such, one will rip the base off the stuck case before any harm comes to the press. I underestimated the breaking strength of that wooden handle. "Whoops!" I like trying different products - as is the only way to find newer, better things - should they exist. I have "stuck" probably eight or nine cases in my lifetime of reloading, all while using various "spray on" lubes. There are a few brands I have talked trash about in this forum - but the one spray product that always worked for me was the original recipe Dillon product. I have used the RCBS lube pad enough to use up probably 20-30 bottles of the lube - never a stuck case. Good stuff. I have tried products requiring the cleaning with acetone and such in the past - but just don't find the benefit in it. Between breathing the fumes, the fire hazard (in the same room where I store my powder) and the extra step required to do the removal doesn't make much sense to me with the other great products out there as alternatives - the RCBS lube being one of them. The Hornady non-aerosol bottled stuff is good - and of course- Imperial Sizing Wax. There are a number of pretty good products - but some real losers too.

 

[Fire Dog]

Just a little advice from an old precision reloader!!! Take it or leave it!! Your choise!!!

I experimented with sprays and it cost more and is a big waste of oil!! The rub on lubes contain wool oil or wool wax!!! These lubes generally contain Stearic acid which is common to most animal fats and oils!!! The acidity of this oil is much higher than petroleum based pressure oils!!! Plus, it slows the reloading process!!!

As a reloader for over 40 years, I would recommend using high pressure case lubes!! For the cost of 2 spray lubes, you can get a bottle of high pressue case lube and a lube pad!!! I'm still using my one and only bottle of Bonanza lube purchased 40 years ago ($2.00) and still have over a third left and have reloaded over 15000 rounds!! There will probably some oil left in that bottle when a die!! Depending on the amount of reloading, a bottle could last a lifetime!! Mind you, that around 80% were small cases like 22 Hornet, 222, 223, and 22-250!!!

The secret to conserving the oil is simple!!! Have a feel for you sizing operation!!! Outside lube the first 5 cases and lightly scrap each case mouth over the pad while rotating it to lightly lube the inside close to the mouth! I use a 5/8" thick strip of wood to elevate the base so the fronts of the neck and case body are lightly oiled!! Resize these 5 cases in your clean die to lube the die and expander!!! Then run dry cases until you feel a little more pressure in the press!! Stop with the stroke, and lube the case and finish sizing it!! Run another lubed case in, then run dry cases until you feel the resistance again!!! Repeat the process!!! NOTE: If the last case extraction from the die or expander required more force on the press handle, STOP and run 2 more lubed cases in the sizing oprtation!! I've had 2 events where it sized without much effort, but had near stuck cases in the die!!! Keep a good feeling in both directions of the press handle!!!

I clean the oil off the cases with acetone in the garage and set the cases in the sun for a couple of hours!! Use a towel on a tray and rotate the cases 180° after the 1st hour in the hot sun!!!

It only takes 2 to 3 drops to saturate the conditioned pad!!! Have an old deck of plastic coated playing cards in your reloading supplies!!! Use a card to lightly trowel the oil drops over the pad surface of the working area!!! Trowel immediately after adding the drops to the pad or they will soak into the pad!! The whole pad doesn't need to be lubed!!! Below is a picture of that bottle and the old RCBS lube pad!!

I not only have the original bottle of lube that came with the Bonanza Co-Ax but also the catalogue showing that the press only cost $78.75... You could also go for the "Combo" which included a set of dies of your choice, pistol or rifle all for $89.95 or if you wanted Bench Rest rifle dies $90.95...
They also made an open front single stage press called the Model "68".
That was $40.50, the "Combo" deal $55.45 or Bench Rest dies $56.45...
These days I have long used Imperial Die Wax or Ballistic Case Wax as it is so much easier to clean off cases and like Brylcreem of yesteryear "A little Dab will do you"
Bonanza made lots of products including powder ticklers, case concentricity checkers & powder scales and case graphiter that has three sizes of brushes inside the box to put "white graphite" on the inside of case necks to ease the passage of the neck sizing ball... I have one of those too and you can get yours today from Foster... LOTS better than cleaning "wet/greasy" lubes out of the necks, just size and keep rolling. Also less seating drag.
They even made some gunsmithing related products.
Foster still today makes some of the very same products except with their name on it... Parts for a Foster Co-Ax are interchangeable with the original Bonanza which helps if you ever need to replace anything... So far I have never needed to replace anything but considering up dating the automatic shell holder base for one that has captive springs... The one weak design area of the whole thing as you can spend hours searching for the spring from one side or the other that shot out across the room when changing the shell holder plate from small to large.... Been there... Done that!!
BTW: Instead of the "expensive" RCBS pad I just used a rubber stamp ink pad that were cheap and available at any stationary shop... Also before formally made lubes I was using Anhydros Lanolin that came in a tube and available in any drug store... Also cheap and good for your hands... {:~)
I also had one of those beam scales in the late 60's but it wasn't for weighing gun powder...

 

[6ShotsOr5?]

When I started reloading, i got a lot of very helpful advice from a friend on this forum, @snert. I started with a T7 press and Redding die sets that included full length bushing sizer dies and competition seaters. Nothing wrong with those!. A good friend at my shooting club and also a member of this forum @JTEX suggested I try Wilson FL dies and also Wilson micrometer top seater dies - these use an arbor press. Those Wilson dies are about all I use now. I would probably still be using the Redding dies except for the fact that I have moved on to some different cartridges. I have three turrets for my T7 but I’m currently only using one. I have an RCBS collet style bullet puller, a Redding universal decapping die, and four FL sizing dies on the turret. I use the one empty hole on the turret for occasional one-off jobs like expanding some necks, etc. If you are already loading two different cartridges, you will want more than four slots on your turret, so I would go with the T7 if I were you.

One pretty minor thing I noticed with the Wilson sizers that I like a little better is that they automatically let the bushing float a little, you just tighten the stem above the bushing down all the way and the bushing will have just the right amount of wiggle room. On the Redding sizers you tighten down all the way and then back off a little until you are happy with the amount of float for the bushing. The Redding dies give you more control, but it’s super easy to be consistent with the Wilson dies.

The reason I would suggest you consider using an arbor press and the Wilson seaters is because you can easily take the arbor press to the range with you when you are testing different seating depths. You just load a box of cartridges all seated long and them seat them deeper and test until you see something you like. Then you can confirm the test, and if you are still happy, go ahead and seat whatever rounds are left at that seating depth. The other nice thing is that you can really feel the bullet seat with the arbor press. Your T7 and other larger presses are great for sizing but they have too much leverage for you to feel what you are doing when seating. Also I have found these Wilson seaters to be a fair bit cheaper than what I would have spent for the comparable Redding micrometer style seater dies.

I don’t use the priming feature on the T7. At first I used a Sinclair hand priming tool and that worked well, but as I learned more from other shooters, I found that very uniform seating would help my precision. Now I’m using a Frankford arsenal hand priming tool which lets me easily seat all my primers the same depth and it has a tray that holds and feeds the primers so it’s fast. Different shooters have different needs but the Frankford seems a lot better for my needs. If I were loading thousands of rounds at a time like some of the Varmint shooters, the Frankford would be a huge improvement.

Sorry this was so long but there are a lot of things to consider and the more you learn ahead of time, the more you will avoid buying stuff that you aren’t going to be using a few years from now. Save by making good purchasing decisions, then you may have enough money left to afford some powder and primers.

 

[ebb]

To my knowledge there is nothing Redding makes that you could go wrong by owing.

 

[Wild Bill IV]

Sometimes you just have to test the limits of your gear...... I had just tried a new "spray on" lube. Dang stuff.

Just a little advice from an old precision reloader!!! Take it or leave it!! Your choise!!!

As a reloader for over 40 years, I would recommend using high pressure case lubes!! For the cost of 2 spray lubes, you can get a bottle of high pressue case lube and a lube pad!!! I'm still using my one and only bottle of Bonanza lube purchased 40 years ago ($2.00) and still have over a third left and have reloaded over 15000 rounds!! Mind you, that around 80% were small cases like 22 Hornet, 222, 223, and 22-250!!! The secret to conserving the oil is simple!!! Have a feel for you sizing operation!!! Outside lube the first 5 cases and lightly scrap each case mouth over the pad while rotating it to lightly lube the inside close to the mouth! I use a 3/4" strip of wood to elevate the base so the fronts of the neck and case body are lightly oiled!! Resize these 5 cases in your clean die to lube the die and expander!!! Then run dry cases until you feel a little more pressure in the press!! Stop with the stroke, and lube the case and finish sizing it!! Run another lubed case in, then run dry cases until you feel the resistance again!!! Repeat the process!!! NOTE: If the last case extraction from the die or expander required more force on the press handle, STOP and run 2 more lubed cases in the sizing oprtation!! I've had 2 events where it sized without much effort, but had near stuck cases in the die!!! Keep a good feeling in both directions of the press handle!!!

I clean the oil off the cases with acetone in the garage and set the cases in the sun for a couple of hours!! Use a towel on a tray and rotate the cases 180° after the 1st hour in the hot sun!!!

It only takes 2 to 3 drops to saturate the conditioned pad!!! Have an old deck of plastic coated playing cards in your reloading supplies!!! Use a card to lightly trowel the oil over the pad surface of the working area!!! The whole pad doesn't need to be lubed!!! Below is a picture of that bottle and the old RCBS lube pad!!

Yeah - one would probably think I am a rookie, having broken the handle on a press with a stuck case. I've actually been reloading for 53 years now, having used a large number of presses and just about every lube known to the shooting world at one time or another. With a press like a rock chucker or such, one will rip the base off the stuck case before any harm comes to the press. I underestimated the breaking strength of that wooden handle. "Whoops!" I like trying different products - as is the only way to find newer, better things - should they exist. I have "stuck" probably eight or nine cases in my lifetime of reloading, all while using various "spray on" lubes. There are a few brands I have talked trash about in this forum - but the one spray product that always worked for me was the original recipe Dillon product. I have used the RCBS lube pad enough to use up probably 20-30 bottles of the lube - never a stuck case. Good stuff. I have tried products requiring the cleaning with acetone and such in the past - but just don't find the benefit in it. Between breathing the fumes, the fire hazard (in the same room where I store my powder) and the extra step required to do the removal doesn't make much sense to me with the other great products out there as alternatives - the RCBS lube being one of them. The Hornady non-aerosol bottled stuff is good - and of course- Imperial Sizing Wax. There are a number of pretty good products - but some real losers too.

I use the acetone in the garage or outside!!! The only chemicals in my reloading room are for gun cleaning, gun and reel lubes, epoxies, and air fresheners!! I do have a bottle of RCBS case lube, but have not used it!!! I was worried that the Bonanza lube would go bad after this many years!!! I have only used one press in my reloading, and that is the Bonanza CO-AX!!! I have never had a stuck case in a die on 15K plus reloads!!! Came close once!!!!

 

[Wild Bill IV]

I not only have the original bottle of lube that came with the Bonanza Co-Ax but also the catalogue showing that the press only cost $78.75... You could also go for the "Combo" which included a set of dies of your choice, pistol or rifle all for $89.95 or if you wanted Bench Rest rifle dies $90.95...
They also made an open front single stage press called the Model "68".
That was $40.50, the "Combo" deal $55.45 or Bench Rest dies $56.45...
These days I have long used Imperial Die Wax or Ballistic Case Wax as it is so much easier to clean off cases and like Brylcreem of yesteryear "A little Dab will do you"
Bonanza made lots of products including powder ticklers, case concentricity checkers & powder scales and case graphiter that has three sizes of brushes inside the box to put "white graphite" on the inside of case necks to ease the passage of the neck sizing ball... I have one of those too and you can get yours today from Foster... LOTS better than cleaning "wet/greasy" lubes out of the necks, just size and keep rolling. Also less seating drag.
They even made some gunsmithing related products.
Foster still today makes some of the very same products except with their name on it... Parts for a Foster Co-Ax are interchangeable with the original Bonanza which helps if you ever need to replace anything... So far I have never needed to replace anything but considering up dating the automatic shell holder base for one that has captive springs... The one weak design area of the whole thing as you can spend hours searching for the spring from one side or the other that shot out across the room when changing the shell holder plate from small to large.... Been there... Done that!!
BTW: Instead of the "expensive" RCBS pad I just used a rubber stamp ink pad that were cheap and available at any stationary shop... Also before formally made lubes I was using Anhydros Lanolin that came in a tube and available in any drug store... Also cheap and good for your hands... {:~)
I also had one of those beam scales in the late 60's but it wasn't for weighing gun powder...

I bet you converted grains to ounces or grams!!!! GROOVY MAN!!!! Those days are long over!!! It is interesting to note that the Patent Pending Number for the CO-AX is cast in the main base body of the press and visible from the operator's perspective!!!

And, I too have spent days looking for those f...ing jaw springs!!! Finally broke the bank, a whole $2.00 for 2 springs for conserving time looking for a rogue spring or two!!! Still have the 2 original springs!!! Must have scared them!! I will be purchasing the interchangeable jaw kits in the future!!! Right now, all may guns require the large rifle jaws!!!

I bought my Bonanza CO-AX B-1 model press (shell holder priming system) for $165.00 in 1982!!! I use the Sinclair hand primer instead for speed and a better feel for primer seating!! Bonanza also had the B-2 model with the adjustable 3 jaw priming system just like the Bonanza "Blue Ribbon" Primer Seater with "E-Z-Just" Shellholder!!!!

Still have the 1982-83 catalog, price sheets, decal, and box!!! In that catalog, there are 4 pages explaining the mechanical advantage of reloading presses!!! Those 4 pages look like pages out of my old college statics and engineering physics books!!! The article is for C type and CO-AX presses!!! With the basic info from this article and utilizing concepts of geometry, trig, torque, and vector mechanics, it could be applicable for any reloading press, including arbors!!!!

 

[Mark611]

My 2ct, I have a T7, and 2 LYMAN Brass Smiths, 8-hole Turret presses, I like them all! been using them for years, I have had no issues with them, IMO rotating the head is just simpler than changing out dies, I load precision ammo, not bulk, these presses allow me to set up 2 different calibers on 1 head, depending on your die arrangement, I use an old RCBS junior 3 press to do all the dirty work, like de priming brass, yeas ago I only used single stage presses, I had 1 for each step of my loading process, these turret presses just make since and take up less space on my bench!

 

[snert]

I used a single stage for years. Did thousands of reloads both pistol and rifle.

I got a T7 and now the single stage is only used for mass depriming with a universal depriming die.

Once the dies are set up, just click between them for all stages of loading. Depending on how many rounds I am loading, I either flip back and forth (small numbers) or stick with one die for the whole batch (big batches). I love the T7 and the idea of clicking in a die every time I had to change processes went out the window the day I first set it up. ill never go back or change.

 

[Swatman05]

I used a single stage for years. Did thousands of reloads both pistol and rifle.

I got a T7 and now the single stage is only used for mass depriming with a universal depriming die.

Once the dies are set up, just click between them for all stages of loading. Depending on how many rounds I am loading, I either flip back and forth (small numbers) or stick with one die for the whole batch (big batches). I love the T7 and the idea of clicking in a die every time I had to change processes went out the window the day I first set it up. ill never go back or change.

I definitely think a T7 will be at the top of my list. I wanna go to a few reloading stores in Phoenix and see what they have

 

[Swatman05]

Off topic.. But I just scored a 1lb jug of Retumbo for my 30 Nosler! Local Sportsmans had it