Bald eagle front rest mod

[Link]

Did any of you guys do the ball bearing mod to the end of the screw, just to finish it off? ;]

 

[wkdickinson]

Well, after running all over this little one-horse town I found it and I'm now in business. I believe this is what we were discussing. This thing feels so much better. I put that rounded hex-head screw in the blank hole just to make it look better. View attachment 1240946

Were did you get the leveling feet?

 

[Bill Norris]

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[Bill Norris]

Were did you get the leveling feet?

P M sent.

 

[Fuj]

The levelers I used on mine came from McMaster Carr.
Their nice to work with having them come with a ball
swivel. The only thing I need to do on my project since
I mounted it all on a steel plate, was to get the taller F-
Class screws, and grind the points down so to screw
into the feet deeper.

 

[Bill Norris]

Kept messing around with different parts laying around and got a little sleeker and nicer looking windage adjustment knob on this rig. Had to put a bushing around the stud to make it fit tight and even inside the knob.

 

[Cfshooter]

Well, after running all over this little one-horse town I found it and I'm now in business. I believe this is what we were discussing. This thing feels so much better. I put that rounded hex-head screw in the blank hole just to make it look better. View attachment 1240946

Old thread, but time for me to do this. I will stop by Ace and see if they have the threaded bolt.

 

[Link]

I found a knob got a piece of all thread then drilled the end concaved and put a ball bearing on the end. Works a lot smoother.

 

[nmkid]

If I wasn't getting ready to move I would get right on this. I'll remember later. Yeah, right!

 

[T.Rhodes]

Watching... I did this conversion but made my own own double threaded bolt with dies I had in the shop, and it came out so-so. Ended up going back to cable and that's really so-so.

This old thread has some good ideas on mods. Glad you breathed some new life in it, @Cfshooter .

 

[kojaone]

Great older thread!
So the Bald Eagel cable delete mod should work well for a lefty. I'm venturing into RFBR and I do a bit of prairie doggin from a bench. I need a good rest,not wanting to spend a lot, as in SEB,Raptor types.
What's the best route to go?
I'm looking at Bald Eagle,Sinclair, Caldwell, with a Shadetree Top on etc. ,something that could handle a bit dust form hunting PD's,but look good and be able to use in BR matches.Bald Eagle; cast iron or aluminum ?
Thanks

 

[Link]

I like a heavy rest, so steel over aluminum. I also like a joystick [maybe just the word Joystick] but I find it easier to get back on target, as I don't track so well as some.

 

[Bill Norris]

Wondering if there is a source online for the metal plate that some have mounted the rest on or is it something each one is doing individually ?

 

[Oso]

I just received my Bald Eagle in past month. Here is a link to the Mod List for the Bald Eagle Rest that helped a lot. I saw an older thread on someone designing a bottom plate, but can't remember if it was on here (Shooters Forum) or over on Rimfire Central... sorry.

Bald Eagle Rest - Mods & Tips

Bald Eagle Rest - Mods

 

[Grey Kiwi]

If you want to get really involved (and no special tools needed. But a small drill press (or a lathe) would help keep drilling holes nice and straight. I just used a drill press.
I sold this rest to fellow club member, and he has the bright idea of now using a threaded rod made for a 3D printer as they have quite fine threads (for finer adjustments). But he is shooting 100+ scores as it is anyway.
It really only took a couple of hours to do this mod. More time spent just thinking about 'what goes where', and designing as I went.
It's fine. Works well. Holds its POA, and smooth movements too.
https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/bald-eagle-screw-thread-windage-mod.4082091/

 

[T.Rhodes]

If you want to get really involved (and no special tools needed. But a small drill press (or a lathe) would help keep drilling holes nice and straight. I just used a drill press.
I sold this rest to fellow club member, and he has the bright idea of now using a threaded rod made for a 3D printer as they have quite fine threads (for finer adjustments). But he is shooting 100+ scores as it is anyway.
It really only took a couple of hours to do this mod. More time spent just thinking about 'what goes where', and designing as I went.
It's fine. Works well. Holds its POA, and smooth movements too.
https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/bald-eagle-screw-thread-windage-mod.4082091/

Very nice threaded modification! I would like to clarify one point for myself. In the final version, you used nuts on each side of the ball rod end to 'jam' against the side of the rod bearing, correct?

 

[Grey Kiwi]

Very nice threaded modification! I would like to clarify one point for myself. In the final version, you used nuts on each side of the ball rod end to 'jam' against the side of the rod bearing, correct?

Yes, that's correct. It stops the rod just spinning inside the bearing.
On the knob side I used the actual knob as the 'lock nut' on the outside.
Used a locknut on the inside.
The far end (away from the knob) gets a locknut each side of the bearing.
Lock up the knob end first, then do the far end (that stops any hint of binding).
It really does work very smoothly, and doesn't take a lot of effort.
Main thing is to get those threaded holes drilled straight so that the rod ends sit level with each other.
The big advantage (apart from the smoothness) is the extra traverse (left to right) that you gain, because you do gain all that area currently taken up by the return springs.
Edit: I just found my original photos.
This one shows the lock nuts, and I had forgotten that I used a nylock nut at the far outside end so that nothing would spin loose.
It just occurred to me as I looked at this photo that a clever person could just use longer side rails and put plain bronze bushes in there (instead of using rod ends). I don't know, but 'maybe' the rod ends will offer a smoother operation though? Plus rod ends are self aligning and bushes aren't.
One extra advantage...the windage knob is nearer to the shooter. You don't need to reach so far forward to operate the knob.

 

[T.Rhodes]

Yes, that's correct. It stops the rod just spinning inside the bearing.
On the knob side I used the actual knob as the 'lock nut' on the outside.
Used a locknut on the inside.
The far end (away from the knob) gets a locknut each side of the bearing.
Lock up the knob end first, then do the far end (that stops any hint of binding).
It really does work very smoothly, and doesn't take a lot of effort.
Main thing is to get those threaded holes drilled straight so that the rod ends sit level with each other.
The big advantage (apart from the smoothness) is the extra traverse (left to right) that you gain, because you do gain all that area currently taken up by the return springs.
Edit: I just found my original photos.
This one shows the lock nuts, and I had forgotten that I used a nylock nut at the far outside end so that nothing would spin loose.
It just occurred to me as I looked at this photo that a clever person could just use longer side rails and put plain bronze bushes in there (instead of using rod ends). I don't know, but 'maybe' the rod ends will offer a smoother operation though? Plus rod ends are self aligning and bushes aren't.
One extra advantage...the windage knob is nearer to the shooter. You don't need to reach so far forward to operate the knob.

View attachment 1547482

Thank you for the added information and photo. Good point about this moving the knob closer to the shooter...it is a stretch to reach the knob in the center of windage bed, and a couple inches closer is a plus.

 

[boltfluter]

Yes, that's correct. It stops the rod just spinning inside the bearing.
On the knob side I used the actual knob as the 'lock nut' on the outside.
Used a locknut on the inside.
The far end (away from the knob) gets a locknut each side of the bearing.
Lock up the knob end first, then do the far end (that stops any hint of binding).
It really does work very smoothly, and doesn't take a lot of effort.
Main thing is to get those threaded holes drilled straight so that the rod ends sit level with each other.
The big advantage (apart from the smoothness) is the extra traverse (left to right) that you gain, because you do gain all that area currently taken up by the return springs.
Edit: I just found my original photos.
This one shows the lock nuts, and I had forgotten that I used a nylock nut at the far outside end so that nothing would spin loose.
It just occurred to me as I looked at this photo that a clever person could just use longer side rails and put plain bronze bushes in there (instead of using rod ends). I don't know, but 'maybe' the rod ends will offer a smoother operation though? Plus rod ends are self aligning and bushes aren't.
One extra advantage...the windage knob is nearer to the shooter. You don't need to reach so far forward to operate the knob.

View attachment 1547482

Nicely done! Looks like it came that way from the factory.
Paul

 

[WyleWD]

Yes, that's correct. It stops the rod just spinning inside the bearing.
On the knob side I used the actual knob as the 'lock nut' on the outside.
Used a locknut on the inside.
The far end (away from the knob) gets a locknut each side of the bearing.
Lock up the knob end first, then do the far end (that stops any hint of binding).
It really does work very smoothly, and doesn't take a lot of effort.
Main thing is to get those threaded holes drilled straight so that the rod ends sit level with each other.
The big advantage (apart from the smoothness) is the extra traverse (left to right) that you gain, because you do gain all that area currently taken up by the return springs.
Edit: I just found my original photos.
This one shows the lock nuts, and I had forgotten that I used a nylock nut at the far outside end so that nothing would spin loose.
It just occurred to me as I looked at this photo that a clever person could just use longer side rails and put plain bronze bushes in there (instead of using rod ends). I don't know, but 'maybe' the rod ends will offer a smoother operation though? Plus rod ends are self aligning and bushes aren't.
One extra advantage...the windage knob is nearer to the shooter. You don't need to reach so far forward to operate the knob.

View attachment 1547482

Now THAT is sweet!! Love it. WD