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Replacing firing pin springs

Have you seen this?
I think the message is, it's cheap enough to replace, why wait for it to fail - do it more often than not at all.

 
The more I shoot and work with rifles, the more often I find myself changing firing pin springs. A stated, it is quick, cheap and easy. And they do lose strength over time.

A buddy had a hunting rifle he had for about 35 years. He said it had lost its accuracy and was starting to have failures to fire. He asked me to look at it and rebarrel it. Just cycling the action I could tell the spring was bad. Below is a picture of what I found when I took the bolt apart with the old spring beside a new one. I put the new spring in it and it shot great again. Go figure! FP Spring.jpg
 
The more I shoot and work with rifles, the more often I find myself changing firing pin springs. A stated, it is quick, cheap and easy. And they do lose strength over time.

A buddy had a hunting rifle he had for about 35 years. He said it had lost its accuracy and was starting to have failures to fire. He asked me to look at it and rebarrel it. Just cycling the action I could tell the spring was bad. Below is a picture of what I found when I took the bolt apart with the old spring beside a new one. I put the new spring in it and it shot great again. Go figure! View attachment 1519091
The springs made from music wire lose tension very quickly. The springs made from a Silicon /Chrome alloy retain tension for a very long time. I think the springs sold by the Wolf Co. are SiCr.
 
I was talking to a couple buddies of mine the other day about firing pin springs and an easy way to measure spring resistance, I was thinking of using the 21st Century hydro seater or AMP press to measure, just need to come up with a little gizmo to stabilize the spring while taking measurement like a piece of pvc tubing.....any ideas ?
 
I was talking to a couple buddies of mine the other day about firing pin springs and an easy way to measure spring resistance, I was thinking of using the 21st Century hydro seater or AMP press to measure, just need to come up with a little gizmo to stabilize the spring while taking measurement like a piece of pvc tubing.....any ideas ?
Just use a bathroom scale. Simple and it works.
Paul
 
One of the very last things I do after shooting a string , practice , or any grouping is to clear the rifle , ( Bolt Action ) , Cycle the Bolt three times . Visually check the chamber , and then pull the trigger with the rifle pointed down-range .
That assures me that the F/P Spring is released , and not under any load . Why would you store any rifle with tension load on the F/P spring , causing a shorter life for the spring ?
 
Springs and other ignition problems show up on target first. They have to be real bad to see in your ES. I dont recommend changing springs just to change them. Depending on the type of spring you may want to and you may not. Music wire spring like Kelblys uses wear out fast and should be changed often. Or at least checked often. But the chrome silicon springs like Bat and Borden use do not. Check them once a year and if they are good dont replace them. Why dont I recommend replacing them just because? Because they are not all the same. And as the manufacturer gets in a new order of springs they may not be what you had before even if they are supposed to be. I have measured up to 3 pounds different from one to the next. This matters because 3 pounds is enough to change the primer preference of the action. So if you have a real good load and change springs you may find it does not shoot as well and you may have to change primers, which may or may not get it back to where it was.
 
Any time you compress a spring and place it under a "load" you are causing the spring to be pressured which will in time cause a loss of structure in the metal , resulting in a loss of tensile response , or "spring-back" of the coil . Think I said that right .
 
Most of my rifles/actions are Tikka. I have replaced 2 Tikka firing pins and the description of 'quick' or 'easy' does not apply. It's a real pain. I'm hoping someone makes a commercially available tool at some stage. The clip that retains the firing pin is the worst as it stretches when putting it in place and then the little cup won't fit back over it. Overall a frustrating job. One of the few things I dislike about Tikkas.
 
Springs and other ignition problems show up on target first. They have to be real bad to see in your ES. I dont recommend changing springs just to change them. Depending on the type of spring you may want to and you may not. Music wire spring like Kelblys uses wear out fast and should be changed often. Or at least checked often. But the chrome silicon springs like Bat and Borden use do not. Check them once a year and if they are good dont replace them. Why dont I recommend replacing them just because? Because they are not all the same. And as the manufacturer gets in a new order of springs they may not be what you had before even if they are supposed to be. I have measured up to 3 pounds different from one to the next. This matters because 3 pounds is enough to change the primer preference of the action. So if you have a real good load and change springs you may find it does not shoot as well and you may have to change primers, which may or may not get it back to where it was.
Thanks...yes these are for Kelblys. Visually they look fine and I always store the bolt de-cooked. I'll get some just in case.
I'm shooting ftr at a windy range at 1000 so I think it would be quite hard for me to determine the spring is an issue but just changing it could just as likely introduce issues. Speedy did a bit on how new springs can intro issues too.. So I think I'll have the springs there in case but right now I'm at it ain't broke so I'm not fixing it. Thanks for the reply.
 

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