Threads Stripped

[tws3b2]

Where are you located? If near me I can cut a new piece for you. Would need to thread your action

I'm in N C.

 

[linebaugh]

I'm in N C.

Well thats not gonna work. Im in iowa.

 

[DRK]

I would not weld it, it will harden the steel and you will have a difficult task of drilling and tapping.

I agree with peening over, green Loctite, and staking in place. I would be surprised if it does work it's way back out.

 

[whatsupdoc]

Buy a new Sear Spring Case.

Sear Spring Case, Used Factory Original

REMINGTON 550, 550-1A, 550-1, 550-2G, 550-A Sear Spring Case, Used Factory Original

www.gunpartscorp.com

Measure the threads

See if there is a helicoil in that size.

Drill, Tap, install helicoil.

 

[tws3b2]

Well thats not gonna work. Im in iowa.

Yeah, Thanks

 

[tws3b2]

Buy a new Sear Spring Case.

Sear Spring Case, Used Factory Original

REMINGTON 550, 550-1A, 550-1, 550-2G, 550-A Sear Spring Case, Used Factory Original

www.gunpartscorp.com

Measure the threads

See if there is a helicoil in that size.

Drill, Tap, install helicoil.

The metal there is only about 0.121 thick, two maybe 3 threads. I've not found any helicoil or other insert that short.

 

[tws3b2]

I would not weld it, it will harden the steel and you will have a difficult task of drilling and tapping.

I agree with peening over, green Loctite, and staking in place. I would be surprised if it does work it's way back out.

I've never done anything like that. Could explain "peening and staking" a little? Thanks

 

[whatsupdoc]

The metal there is only about 0.121 thick, two maybe 3 threads. I've not found any helicoil or other insert that short.

The length of the coil does not matter, you install it and cut off the protruding coil.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

I've never done anything like that. Could explain "peening and staking" a little? Thanks

If you squash the surface of the steel around the stripped hole, some of the displaced steel will push out into hole. This can give the male threads an extra spot to grab. The usual method for doing this is tapping with the round side of a ball peen hammer(peening), or by making a ring of center punch marks around the hole(staking). The most aesthetically pleasing version is done with a flat tipped punch a bit bigger than the stripped hole. The ring of metal is then pushed down without quite so much carnage on the surface. Good support is required for that method.
When restarting the male threads back in for the first time, be sure put some grease on them. Freshly upset steel is very prone to galling. Remove all the grease once you get a good tight fit and throw some loctite stud and bearing on it.
Other products may work as well, I am just partial to what has pulled my fat out of the fire in the past.

 

[DRK]

I've never done anything like that. Could explain "peening and staking" a little? Thanks

Take a ball peen hammer, use the ball side and tap the edge of the hole lightly. This will force a "lip" to protrude slightly. Thread the bolt in, using green Loctite bearing retaining compound. Tighten it up, take a center punch and stake into the fastener. You need to go around the bolt head in 3 or 4 places, i.e. 120 to 90 degrees apart. Take the center punch, hold it in your left hand like you would hold a pencil, give the end a good whack with a hammer going towards the bolt head right on the edge.

It is not rocket science.

 

[Lucky Shooter]

Just in case it matters------from many years ago.

Left handed thread ?

A. Weldy

 

[Webster]

This is a made in 1951 Remington 550-1 semi auto 22. Bought it a couple years ago. It would jam every other round or so. I found the problem was the sear spring was bent and the hole the sear case screws into was stripped. Seems the previous owner took it apart for cleaning or whatever and he got the case cross threaded trying to put it back. Did a good job bending the spring and stripping the hole threads. Easy to understand because the case is constantly under pressure from the spring even as it is being installed. Easy to cross thread.
Keep in mind this is a Case, not a screw or bolt. It does have two or three fine threads.
I found new springs and case. I put the new case and spring back in and right now it's holding. But, I don't know how long it will hold. I want to find a way to fix before it lets go. The metal there is only about 0.121" thick "only two or three threads". I don't think threaded inserts or push inserts or anything like that will work because of the metal thickness. I don't think jbweld or any thread lock will do much good on two threads.
I'm thinking fill weld the hole then drill and tap Or spot weld the case so it can never move again. There is no reason for it to come out again. I put in several new factory parts and everything else is in great shape. I have no doubt it will last another 80 years as is with a little care. I know nothing about welding.
My question is, Can that be done Or Any other ideas.
This thing is a fantastic shooter and I've decided I'm going all out for a fix. One way or another.View attachment 1517446View attachment 1517447

Not familiar with your rifle. Could you silver solder it. Some silver solder alloys melt as low as about 1200F.

 

[SBS]

IF the trigger and rifle are now functioning okay, just lightly spot weld the edges with TIG/MIG in about 4-6 places, maybe letting it cool after 2. I have drilled out the hole much larger, had a solid piece tigged in, then drilled and tapped it several years ago. No choice as the receiver wouldn't hold the case. Takes an odd thread, still have the tap somewhere. Cannot use much heat (such as silver soldering) after it's installed, since the spring has to be already inside the case and would be ruined. Peening the metal to raise high spots in the receiver threads is a no go, since the case is very difficult to install with the spring inside, which is why most cross thread it, even starting with good threads -- so threads must be quite smooth for installation. Remington's instructions years ago were never to remove the case or to allow the spring to jump upwards out of it, unless absolutely necessary. Lots of 550's out there with the same problem after being taken completely apart, either for cleaning or out of curiosity. Also, RH threads to answer Lucky Shooter's query.

 

[tws3b2]

If you squash the surface of the steel around the stripped hole, some of the displaced steel will push out into hole. This can give the male threads an extra spot to grab. The usual method for doing this is tapping with the round side of a ball peen hammer(peening), or by making a ring of center punch marks around the hole(staking). The most aesthetically pleasing version is done with a flat tipped punch a bit bigger than the stripped hole. The ring of metal is then pushed down without quite so much carnage on the surface. Good support is required for that method.
When restarting the male threads back in for the first time, be sure put some grease on them. Freshly upset steel is very prone to galling. Remove all the grease once you get a good tight fit and throw some loctite stud and bearing on it.
Other products may work as well, I am just partial to what has pulled my fat out of the fire in the past.

Take a ball peen hammer, use the ball side and tap the edge of the hole lightly. This will force a "lip" to protrude slightly. Thread the bolt in, using green Loctite bearing retaining compound. Tighten it up, take a center punch and stake into the fastener. You need to go around the bolt head in 3 or 4 places, i.e. 120 to 90 degrees apart. Take the center punch, hold it in your left hand like you would hold a pencil, give the end a good whack with a hammer going towards the bolt head right on the edge.

It is not rocket science.

IF the trigger and rifle are now functioning okay, just lightly spot weld the edges with TIG/MIG in about 4-6 places, maybe letting it cool after 2. I have drilled out the hole much larger, had a solid piece tigged in, then drilled and tapped it several years ago. No choice as the receiver wouldn't hold the case. Takes an odd thread, still have the tap somewhere. Cannot use much heat (such as silver soldering) after it's installed, since the spring has to be already inside the case and would be ruined. Peening the metal to raise high spots in the receiver threads is a no go, since the case is very difficult to install with the spring inside, which is why most cross thread it, even starting with good threads -- so threads must be quite smooth for installation. Remington's instructions years ago were never to remove the case or to allow the spring to jump upwards out of it, unless absolutely necessary. Lots of 550's out there with the same problem after being taken completely apart, either for cleaning or out of curiosity. Also, RH threads to answer Lucky Shooter's query.

SBS. I think you are absolutely right all the way around.
The case should have never been removed the first time. Like me, most people did not realize what they were getting into when they removed the case. But at least in my case I had no choice. It was already stripped when I got it. Pawnshop find.
The case is under pressure from the spring even as being installed. That's why loctite or jb weld will not work.
Have you done the Tig/Mig thing yourself?
I have thought about drilling the hole out to half inch, tap and insert a solid plug with loctite, cut the plug flush with dremel, then drill & tap. Sort of a Bubba homemade insert thing. Do you remember what tap you used?
It is such a great shooting gun I hate to give up on it. The threads are holding right now and I don't think I'm going to try a fix until they let go. But, I would like to have a fix ready when they do.
Thanks.