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Solved: Has anyone successfully re-created Neolube No 2?

6Creed73

So, my quest to re-create Neolube has been an epic fail. Curious if anyone has done this successfully, and if so, how?

My understanding is its just 99% isopropyl alcohol and graphite powder or molybdenum. I've tried both graphite and molybdenum, neither gave me good results.

The ratios I've tried are:

1 part powder, two parts alcohol
1 part powder, 1 part alcohol
2 parts powder, 1 part alcohol

In the video, the one on the left is Neolube and the one on the right is homemade. The first thing you'll notice is the color difference. But more Importantly, you can see how easily the homemade lube wipes right off. The Neolube does not wipe off. The video doesn't show this, but not even scratching it with a fingernail will remove the Neolube. I'm starting to think there is more to Neolube than just powder and alcohol. I did read somewhere that there's also some kind of resin in Neolube, I'm certain that's the disconnect. Still curious if anyone has made any successfully.

 
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I have not made Neolube successfully. However for coating the inside of case necks I have successfully used a 91% alcohol / powdered moly mix. Yes if you try you can wipe it off but it does what I need it to do. It provides some lubricity in the neck when I use a mandrel. The residual left on the inside of the neck after the mandrel doesn’t come off when I add powder to the case and there is still enough left when I seat bullets to give me a consistent seating force. If after an extended period I want to adjust my seating depth the bullets still move fine no cold welding or sticking. The other benefit is that it is much cheaper than Neolube. You really don’t need much molybdenum inside the neck to provide adequate dry lubricarion.
 
One Eye Pete said:
I have not made Neolube successfully. However for coating the inside of case necks I have successfully used a 91% alcohol / powdered moly mix. Yes if you try you can wipe it off but it does what I need it to do. It provides some lubricity in the neck when I use a mandrel. The residual left on the inside of the neck after the mandrel doesn’t come off when I add powder to the case and there is still enough left when I seat bullets to give me a consistent seating force. If after an extended period I want to adjust my seating depth the bullets still move fine no cold welding or sticking. The other benefit is that it is much cheaper than Neolube. You really don’t need much molybdenum inside the neck to provide adequate dry lubricarion.
Click to expand...
It's definitely cheaper than Neolube, that's what got me down this road. I agree that the mixture of molybdenum and alcohol will provide some level of lubrication, but in my case, it wipes off completely.

With Neolube, I can use a mandrel for neck expansion and then it's still there when I seat the bullet. With my homemade version...I'd say 90% comes off after the mandrel. I'll probably use what I made and just put it on before and after mandrel use. At least until I use it all, then I'm going back to Neolube unless someone has a better recipe.
 
6Creed73 said:
So, my quest to re-create Neolube has been an epic fail. Curious if anyone has done this successfully, and if so, how?

My understanding is its just 99% isopropyl alcohol and graphite powder or molybdenum. I've tried both graphite and molybdenum, neither gave me good results.

The ratios I've tried are:

1 part powder, two parts alcohol
1 part powder, 1 part alcohol
2 parts powder, 1 part alcohol

In the video, the one on the left is Neolube and the one on the right is homemade. The first thing you'll notice is the color difference. But more Importantly, you can see how easily the homemade lube wipes right off. The Neolube does not wipe off. The video doesn't show this, but not even scratching it with a fingernail will remove the Neolube. I'm starting to think there is more to Neolube than just powder and alcohol. I did read somewhere that there's also some kind of resin in Neolube, I'm certain that's the disconnect. Still curious if anyone has made any successfully.

Click to expand...
Your 12/5 post "BULLET WELD AND PRESSURE RELATIONSHIP" mentioned that you had used neolube on the inside of the case mouths which seemed to me to be a precautionary tale. Was the neolube in that post the commercial version?
 
Crumster said:
Your 12/5 post "BULLET WELD AND PRESSURE RELATIONSHIP" mentioned that you had used neolube on the inside of the case mouths which seemed to me to be a precautionary tale. Was the neolube in that post the commercial version?
Click to expand...
Yes, I've been using Neolube No 2 for awhile. But it's expensive, thought I'd try to make some.

My main use is for consistent bullet seating and mandrel use though....preventing bullet weld is just an added benefit.
 
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6Creed73 said:
Yes, I've been using Neolube No 2 for awhile. But it's expensive, thought I'd try to make some.

My main use is for consistent bullet seating and mandrel use though....preventing bullet weld is just an added benefit.
Click to expand...
So you don't think the Neolube could have anything to do with the weld? Just seemed to me it would have been the natural reaction to blame the only "foreign" substance between the bullet and the case. I admit to being totally ignorant about Neolube lol.
 
I tried to no avail, but i also could not find a graphite in the most
minuscule micron size. That probably is key. I did experiment also
using acetone. Not good to use in a closed room.....As it is, I just
brush in a 50/50 mix of moly and graphite, applied dry.
 
Crumster said:
So you don't think the Neolube could have anything to do with the weld? Just seemed to me it would have been the natural reaction to blame the only "foreign" substance between the bullet and the case. I admit to being totally ignorant about Neolube lol.
Click to expand...
No, I didn't use Neolube 3 years ago when I loaded those up. I mentioned in that post that the Neolube use was well after that and I have not seen the weld issue since using Neolube.
 
Fuj said:
I tried to no avail, but i also could not find a graphite in the most
minuscule micron size. That probably is key. I did experiment also
using acetone. Not good to use in a closed room.....As it is, I just
brush in a 50/50 mix of moly and graphite, applied dry.
Click to expand...

Neolube claims it contains sub-micron graphite. The smallest I could find was 5 micron. Works for what I'm doing (not reloading related), but it's not the same stuff (and mine is lacking whatever the resin stuff is that Neolube has.) 5 micron is available on Amazon if you search thoroughly.
 
divingin said:
Neolube claims it contains sub-micron graphite. The smallest I could find was 5 micron. Works for what I'm doing (not reloading related), but it's not the same stuff (and mine is lacking whatever the resin stuff is that Neolube has.) 5 micron is available on Amazon if you search thoroughly.
Click to expand...
I got some 1.5 micron molybdenum, also on Amazon. 1.5 was the smallest I could find.

Speedmaster Wax Molybdenum Disulfide Powder MoS2 in 2.5 oz, Ultra Fine Powder with 1.5 Micron https://a.co/d/7ESSleX
 
Lowerfriction.com has .09 micron size MoS2. That's what I use when I need it for something. The price has skyrocketed since I bought a pound about 15 years ago. Will probably last my lifetime however.

Hoot
 
add a tiny TINY bit of clear nail polish, that might get it to stick.
And yes ..... I could be crazy and it may be exactly the wrong thing to do. I mean I wouldn't do it, ..... but hey maybe ?
 
Hoot said:
Lowerfriction.com has .09 micron size MoS2. That's what I use when I need it for something. The price has skyrocketed since I bought a pound about 15 years ago. Will probably last my lifetime however.

Hoot
Click to expand...
Wow, I just looked and it's actually a great deal. The lowest I see is the 1.5 micron, but 1lb of it is only $45. I paid $25 for 2oz of 1.5 micron MoS2. Thanks for this!

They also have tungsten disulfide powder that is 0.06 micron for $54/1lb. No idea what that is, but I'm going to look it up.
 
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6Creed73 said:
Wow, I just looked and it's actually a great deal. The lowest I see is the 1.5 micron, but 1lb of it is only $45. I paid $25 for 2oz of 1.5 micron MoS2. Thanks for this!

They also have tungsten disulfide powder that is 0.06 micron for $54/1lb. No idea what that is, but I'm going to look it up.
Click to expand...
Here's some info for anyone who cares. I'm definitely ordering this Tungsten Disulfide. Thanks again @Hoot, this info alone is worth creating this thread.

1000006656.jpg
 
TTE said:
add a tiny TINY bit of clear nail polish, that might get it to stick.
And yes ..... I could be crazy and it may be exactly the wrong thing to do. I mean I wouldn't do it, ..... but hey maybe ?
Click to expand...

I'd think that if you were to use nail polish, you might want to change the solvent to acetone. I don't think alcohol thins most nail polish.
 
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