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Carbon removal.

With regular simple cleaning, I never had a problem with carbon if you define a problem as results of target. I've used a variety of solvents over the past 50+ years including Hoppe's 9, Shooters Choice and Bore Tech C4, all with a bronze brush, about 15 strokes per cleaning session. I clean about ever 50 to 60 rounds. I replace the brush after 5 cleanings. All these aforementioned solvents preformed much the same way. In other words, I could not discern any difference on target.

I have no idea what the inside of my rifle bores looks like, nor do I care as long as the results on target are acceptable.

I continue to be amazed at all this complexity and mystery surrounding cleaning a rifle. Now, toilet bowl cleaner being promoted as the new magical solvent!!
To each their own. Wipe until the paper ain't dirty. What could go wrong?
 
You must be using something stronger than I have. I have done the majority of the cleaning on my high grade barrels with Butch's, and I have not needed rubber gloves to avoid skin loss. Come to think of it, back in the day when I went after powder fouling with #9 with 25% Kroil I did not have issues with that either. BTW if your barrel is not picking up copper per bore scope inspection, it still works very well.
I believe the man said he doesn't believe in bore scopes. Reads the patch tea leaves apparently.
 
Stop It! CLR and LIME-A-Way are not meant for your gun. If you use it you are not suppossed to leave it on more than 15 minutes and even shorter is even better. You have to get it completly out of the rifle.

CLR is designed to clean toilets and coffee pots and such not rifles.

CLR Ingredient List

  • Text from the label. As it appears in the database.
  • Water. WATER.
  • Lactic Acid. LACTIC ACID. LACTIC ACID, L-
  • Gluconic Acid. GLUCONIC ACID.
  • Lauramine Oxide. LAURAMINE OXIDE.
  • Tripropylene Glycol n-Butyl Ether. TRIPROPYLENE GLYCOL BUTYL ETHER.
  • Blue 1. CI 42090 (FD&C Blue No. ...
  • Yellow 5. FD&C Yellow No.

Lime-A-Way Ingredients

  • Water.
  • Hydrochloric Acid.
  • PEG-2 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine.
  • C10-16 Pareth (C12-16 Alcohols Ethoxylated or C10-16 Alketh)
  • Methyl Salicylate.
  • Acid Yellow 23.
  • Acid Blue 93.

Using high energy solvents is a much better option for 100% steel safe cleaning. Might be more work but willnever harm the steel or the steels finish. All cleaners that will allow good cleaning of carbon can damage stock finishes, plastics and optic coatins!
 
Stop It! CLR and LIME-A-Way are not meant for your gun. If you use it you are not suppossed to leave it on more than 15 minutes and even shorter is even better. You have to get it completly out of the rifle.

CLR is designed to clean toilets and coffee pots and such not rifles.

CLR Ingredient List

  • Text from the label. As it appears in the database.
  • Water. WATER.
  • Lactic Acid. LACTIC ACID. LACTIC ACID, L-
  • Gluconic Acid. GLUCONIC ACID.
  • Lauramine Oxide. LAURAMINE OXIDE.
  • Tripropylene Glycol n-Butyl Ether. TRIPROPYLENE GLYCOL BUTYL ETHER.
  • Blue 1. CI 42090 (FD&C Blue No. ...
  • Yellow 5. FD&C Yellow No.

Lime-A-Way Ingredients

  • Water.
  • Hydrochloric Acid.
  • PEG-2 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine.
  • C10-16 Pareth (C12-16 Alcohols Ethoxylated or C10-16 Alketh)
  • Methyl Salicylate.
  • Acid Yellow 23.
  • Acid Blue 93.

Using high energy solvents is a much better option for 100% steel safe cleaning. Might be more work but willnever harm the steel or the steels finish. All cleaners that will allow good cleaning of carbon can damage stock finishes, plastics and optic coatins!
Wow, sounds awful. Until you look up each acid. 80 percent of CLR is from plant base ingredients.
 
Last edited:
Quicksilver Power Tune

This stuff works well for me. I use the Iosso blue brush......

Regards
Rick
 
I wish I could recover the time I've spent reading through thread after thread after thread on barrel cleaning. I do know this, regardless of the solvent you prefer or your cleaning method, there is one constant and that is to clean right after you're done shooting, while the barrel is still warm. If you do this, a lot of the problems miraculously go away.
 
Do you own and regularly use a bore scope?

Lol, of course. Some wise guy always has to ask. How would I know when to stop if I didn’t have a bore scope?

These threads are crazy…..

Somehow, people are still refusing to clean regularly with good solvents and Brushes and then have to try and reinvent the wheel because they were too lazy to clean when they should have. I’ll never understand it.
 
Last edited:
Lol, of course. Some wise guy always has to ask. How would I know when to stop if I didn’t have a bore scope?

These threads are crazy…..

Somehow, people are still refusing to clean regularly with good solvents and Brushes and then have to try and reinvent the wheel because they were too lazy to clean when they should have. I’ll never understand it.
Lots of people who do not have bore scopes post about barrel cleaning. How would I know if I did not ask?
 
Lots of people who do not have bore scopes post about barrel cleaning. How would I know if I did not ask?
I understand. Sorry I took offense. No problem with you, Mr Allen.

Back on topic, I think using a soaked patch of lock ease after cleaning has slowed down my buildup even more, but, like I said above.
Regular intervals, bronze brushes and when needed a light abrasive sure make life easier.
Even when I was shooting a lot of steel and going more (100) rounds between cleaning with my 6.5x47s, I just cleaned with carb out before my normal cleaning. I was probably using more JB then but still no ketchup and no month long soaks.
 

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