@Infrequent Shooter
Ever figure out which nickle was the heavy one?
The first thing one needs to do is figure out what you want the scale to do.
Make a list of weight values, tolerances, and speed of measurement that will make you happy.
Powder charges of 30gr, 50gr, 70 gr? Is +/- 1/10 grain good enough?
Sorting brass, 110gr, 150gr, 200gr, to the nearest 1/2gr?
Sorting bullets, 40gr, 80gr 112gr, 200gr, to the nearest 1/10 grain?
Maybe even sorting a box of 1000 primers to +/-0.02 grains?
The next thing to decide is how much you are ready to spend.
There are scales in the $20 range that might be good enough, maybe $50, $300, and then of course the more expensive ones. Maybe you want a scale with automated charging/trickle. Will it work for all the measurements you want to make? Would a two step weighing 'system' with a dispenser followed by a more precise digital scale? How about a cheap scale for less demanding work and a better one for weighing that really has to be spot on? A beam scale in good condition might work but sorting components would be a pain. A single scale for all measurements in the reloading room might not be the answer.
If your scale is not LINEAR, a full scale calibration without check weights tells you little.
A full scale calibration weight might be required or a digital scale might not complete the calibration but has little to do with accuracy at typical charge weights. Error in a 50 GRAM calibration weight that is 50 milligrams high or low, 49.950g to 50.050g (+/- 0.1%) will likely disappear when weighing powder charges. 30grains +/- 0.1 % due to full scale calibration error is +/- 0.03 grains. Zero drift (seen or hidden), linearity error, resolution and repeatability will likely be bigger than full scale calibration error. That's where check weights come in handy. Accuracy requirements for smaller check weights will be more stringent.
Be ready to figure grams to grains and percent of value. Look up weight tolerances. Better weights may cost more than your scale. Cheap Chinese magnetic steel weights, or old grain calibration sets might not be good enough. Stainless Steel non-magnetic weights of known value and treated gently will last MANY years, even without recalibration.
Good environmental conditions and having known Accurate and Stable (repeatable) check weights NEAR your target is an absolute necessity to check scale performance. You will NEED both check weights and calibration weights. You should probably try to have the ability to CHECK scale performance better than your accuracy requirements for normal use.
Using anything other than a check weight of KNOWN value will BITE you if something happens to the weight and you have to obtain another. Sorting and weighing aren't really the same thing.
Battery power and AC power might help troubleshooting drift and zero problems. Don't be afraid to occasionally hit the Tare/Zero button on cheaper scales.
With a cheapo scale, maybe a 150 pound granite block set in a sandbox, with a power conditioner (not just a surge protector), a wind shield, anti-static wrist straps, barefoot on a anti-static mat, temperature and humidity controlled environment, just might help.