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Neck turning for success.

What matches are you planning to shoot in 2024?
I don't shoot in matches because I would have to travel 5 to 8 hours to there! look at a map and look where Hays, KS is!!! In between KC and Denver!!! Would love to shoot matches and show yeah what a old marksman can due!!! Even without a scope and F class 6.5x55!!!!
 
I don't shoot in matches because I would have to travel 5 to 8 hours to there! look at a map and look where Hays, KS is!!! In between KC and Denver!!! Would love to shoot matches and show yeah what a old marksman can due!!! Even without a scope and F class 6.5x55!!!!
The only competition I have are the coyote and the burrow dog laughing at me at 800!!!!!! Oh yeah, forgot the shoot outs with the local SWAT!!!
 
I don't shoot in matches because I would have to travel 5 to 8 hours to there! look at a map and look where Hays, KS is!!! In between KC and Denver!!! Would love to shoot matches and show yeah what a old marksman can due!!! Even without a scope and F class 6.5x55!!!!
I've been through Hays. Lots of open prairie.
 
Here is one for sale 300.00 shipped come with a small primer and ppc- and Br case holder.
Nice for the price. Does it have a brake? I found a brake to be very desirable when chucking up/unchucking a piece of brass. Attached is one I put together for myself. Think I had about $500 in it plus the Pumpkin collet chuck, and it's really quiet, something I didn't find in most of the commercial units.
 

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I've been through Hays. Lots of open prairie.
Know yeah know why us farm boys can shoot long range!!! From the age of 14, I was shooting an air gauged 1903A3 with MIL MATCH BALL 30cal ammo at empty 55 gallon barrels set 1/2 mile plus!!! With just the mil ramp open sights!!! The good old days, over 50 years ago!! Went through 2 ammo boxes full of that ammo during my time in high school!!!!

Next time you near Hays, take the bypass and stop at the park next to the buffalo pen which is across the bypass of the old Fort Hays where the huge limestone buffalo statue sets. In the buffalo herd, there are 2 white buffalo!!!! The chances of a white buffalo are 1:6 million. Our first one gave birth to the second one!!! Think of the odds!!!!!
 
Can I ask is there a benefit to neck sizing a factory chamber when the case is already trying to expand a long ways. I’ve always seen better accuracy but never new if it could be just from changing neck tension. Bruce teel explained how important it is to get a perfect seal and he mentioned he only uses about .001 clearance. So I’m assuming he builds his reamers based on what brass he has or maybe I misunderstood him.
 
Great post, many thanks. My finger was getting tired pulling on a drill trigger (not yet using a lathe), and hard to keep rpm constant, so got this $100 gyro screwdriver, you just twist your wrist to adjust rpm, no concentration required. I turn slower at maybe 120-180rpm and it’s perfect for that, no need to cool anything and getting about +/- 0.0001. After 2 passes I measure neck wall at one spot on a micrometer, and I’ll make one more slow pass if it’s a little thick. I don’t work for DEWALT…
I like the look of that. My old/cheap driver is wore out, think I'll look for one of those.
 
With all respect, it is very difficult to respond to a post like this. Everything from inside neck reaming to the statement that a 1-7 twist will not stabilize a 6.5 caliber until it passes 100 yards.

I certainly can’t be the only contributor to this Web Site that is shaking his head after reading this.
Jackie,
as it was said by Matthew Quigley - This ain't Dodge City, and He ain't Bill Hickock - he's from Hays.
stan
 
Since there is always so many questions about this topic I wanted to share my process that has always produced excellent results for me. I set up my tools a little differently because I played with all of this stuff when I started turning and found it did make a difference.
The first thing is neck fit on the mandrel. You want this snug. The reason is that any play will transfer into thickness variation. I like a neck that you can not just push on and off by hand. In many cases I will turn brass straight out of the box. I find the carbide turning mandrels from Sinclair fit a lot of virgin cases just right. Because of this fit, you need to lube every case and you must use a carbide or coated mandrel to prevent galling. I have used FP-10 lube from the start and its worked great. You can get a little too tight, but it pretty hard to do. If you see galling or your tearing up the inside of the neck your too tight or the mandrel is rough. If your turning necked up brass, it will get pretty snug when you push through the donut. But it eases up when you cut it.
Because of this fit, you will be producing some heat. So you want to set the turning tool on a cold pack in between cases. Measure every 5th case neck or so and when you see one .0001" thicker, you need to slow down a little and let the tool cool. As the body of the tool heats up and expands it will cut thicker.
The cutters edge also plays a role. I uses HSS and put a small radius on the angle transition from the neck to shoulder. This helps cut a smoother finish with less grooving. I also break the edge slightly. A razor sharp edge is not desirable. It cuts too freely and if the neck fit is not right it will cut a thin spot. You want to dull the edge just slightly so the tool pushed the neck into the mandrel. I am just talking about dragging some 1500 grit along the edge lightly a couple times.
I hold the turner in my hand and try to push against the back of the mandrel with my thumb as to not cock the cutting tool. Let if float freely with a light hold.
With these methods I have no problem keeping necks to where I can not measure the difference with my .0001" ball mic. Loosen up the fit and sharpen the cutter and .0002" or worse is not a problem to find.
Hope this helps.View attachment 1497871
In regard to turning mandrel expansion.
If you increase the temperature of a one inch long piece of steel 30F it increases 0.000219" in length. The formula apparently doesn't like fractional lengths. Divide by 4 and a 1/4" mandrel expands 0.0000547" in diameter.


1701645504085.png
 
Here is a turning set up from PMA.


I like Pat, he is a shooter. But I'll sell you a new Craftsman outfit. You can turn 48 pieces of 6ppc bra20231203_173001.jpgss before changing battery and not need one of those funky pia shell holders either. Shellholders all suck compared to the Craftsman. Been there done that. I would like the balance you save deposited into an account.

No need to make things expensive and hard, unless you're into that stuff. Your results may vary...o_O


Don't buy this, way too cheap and simple. I'm low IQ so I use the KISS method.

Later
Dave
 
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We all build little motorized gizmos and gear reduction seems to be the part that has driven me nuts the most, until I found out about these Alpha industrial surplus reducers. They come in 050 size about the size of a baseball and good for 1/8 or 1/4 hp, to 060, 075, 090, 110, 150, 180 size that probably handles 1 hp. They are very nicely machined, very smooth, very quiet, backlash free, come in a dozen ratios, and have bearing support on both ends so retrofitting them for belt or direct drive is easy.

New, these are crazy expensive, however, used in nearly new condition Ive picked them up for under $100 for the parallel shaft and under $200 for the angled head.

The odd thing about them is the input and output usually are custom sizes and sellers often have no clue what it has.

Unlike the cheap Chinese planetary drives, or the rather coarse Boston reducers, these are like BMW’s. If the form factor works for your project these are definitely worth looking into. :)
 

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