cbrown1050
Silver $$ Contributor
That makes me feel much better about doing this... Thanks.
glued in action removal - Please help
- Thread starter cbrown1050
- Start date
Hey don't mention it, glad I could put you at ease.
I suspected that's what you ran into. Mine was nowhere near that bad. The customer said he coulda lived with it but I wouldn't have. It happens but I think you ran into exactly what I was describing where the action mechanically locked into the stock. Sucks! It was that 57 Nomad stock! To beat all, the guy sold it before I got to fix it and never offered me a chance to buy it. I probably would've. Loved that stock. I love the guy but damn! He was cool about it other than that. I coulda fixed it but didn't like having to. Lol! No way to avoid it that I know of. It had to come out.
What about a electric hot plate or pancake grill?
cbrown1050
Silver $$ Contributor
Can you barrel this thing without taking the action out of the stock?
Thanks,
Chris
Usually, yes. At worst, pull the old bbl and just duplicate it. That particular rifle was a Panda that had been modified. It had a bastard bbl tenon. But yes, just duplicating the previous work is how I do a lot of bbl work. Pandas and Bordens, and a few others...I don't even need the old bbl. They're just that good from the makers.
Damn it!! That's my favorite.
I did 1 other glue in repair last year on a composite as well.
@cbrown1050 refrain from giving it a wack with anything other than palm of hand, and if by chance "shit happens" we can fix it.
Maybe...
Trust me...I felt the same way! Kinda hurt my feelings in more ways than one but it's just spilled milk.
cbrown1050
Silver $$ Contributor
Do you have time for another project at your shop?
Sure. I'm behind a bit at the moment with other work but shoot me a pm and we can talk tomorrow.
cbrown1050
Silver $$ Contributor
Thank you. I'm hoping I can just get it re-barreled leaving it in the stock. Then get used to shooting a LV stock on the long range....big tungsten rod in the back of the stock should help
sounds good. Thank you
Mike will take great care of you, sometimes it's best to know when to say when.
I gotta say the torch idea is classic @gunsandgunsmithing
cbrown1050
Silver $$ Contributor
when I pictured using a torch on it in my head it made my chest feel tight for minute. I have heard good things about his work. Hopefully he has time for it.
Not my idea and it's usually not necessary but I've used that trick a few times. Iron usually works without issue. Glue ins sound permanent but are far from it. Not hard at all MOST of the time. That Panda, I wound up setting up in a mill and machining all of the old dremel marks out of it below the stock line. Not a perfect scenarion but a ton better than having the same thing happen again to someone else. It'll work fine and nobody sees below the stock on a glue in anyway.
Lol! You just heat the rod and slip it into the action while hot to warm the action up enough to come out or speed up getting a glue in out. No biggie at all. It actually keeps some heat off of the stock that way....radiant heat from an iron. Not typically a problem. Not sure how much heat auto paint/clear can take but it's quite a bit, even just hot summertime sunshine gets a car pretty danged hot. I've see a glue in come undone from just that, in the back of a truck, cased and under a bed cover in 100+ degrees.
cbrown1050
Silver $$ Contributor
I know, I was just making a joke. Trust me, if I tried using a torch on a rod to heat it up I would somehow set the stock on fire. It wouldn't end well....
Infrequent Shooter
Gold $$ Contributor
So where is the heatgun applied? level of heat? and 2, where does the iron go? i understand these are probabaly two different methods.
You should see my barrel vise! Lol! It's literally a pipe vise on a stand. Gun Plumber? I do use that. It's been great for a lot of years now. I use bushings of course...unless I get some stupid tight factory bbl that's junk anyway. That sucker won't slip if you remove the bushings!
I don't use a heat gun. Can't see that going well for me. You just lay a clothes iron on top of the scope bases. Usually about 10 minutes or so is good. Like Al said a few posts back..a wood or cardboard shim in the bbl channel to give upward pressure helps some. But usually, it's ready when you smell it and hear it popping and creaking a little. I've had a few tough ones that I pulled the bbl from while heating just to get rid of that big heat sink. Screw it back in when it's close, to ease it right out...most of the time. Lol! Really, they are rarely an issue to get out.
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cbrown1050
Silver $$ Contributor
I'll PM you tomorrow. Have a good night guys and thanks for the help.
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