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I want to shoot canted!!

A 1000 yard zero would be subject to environmental conditions. For example, if you zeroed on a hot day then came back on a colder day with denser air your zero would be off. A 100 yard zero is essentially unaffected by air density and then you correct for shots at distance with your ballistic solver taking into account the environmentals.

Many things to think about! True, correct etc. I missed this!. So do 1000yd F-class shooters show up for a match with their rifles all zero'd at 100 and dial to match the atmospherics?
 
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So do 1000yd F-class shooters show up for a match with their rifles all zero'd at 100 and dial to match the atmospherics?

I'm not an F-class shooter so I wouldn't know. They get sighters though so I don't think being perfect on elevation on the first shot matters much to them.
 
I'm not an F-class shooter so I wouldn't know. They get sighters though so I don't think being perfect on elevation on the first shot matters much to them.

I only went to one F-class practice match as spectator and the guys I remember just started shooting and hit paper right off. This was 600. So they must have been pre-set for elevation. +/-
 
Many things to think about! True, correct etc. I missed this!. So do 1000yd F-class shooters show up for a match with their rifles all zero'd at 100 and dial to match the atmospherics?
It's a good idea to do this, but it's not always possible. Not everyone has ready access to a 1000 yd range. Some venues will make special acommodations for shooters to sight in. For example, there might be a sight-in period on Friday afternoon for a 2-day weekend match. However, the sight-in period may only be via unlimited sighters at the start of the first match on match day. Sighting in might be done on regular targets, e-targets, or even on steel targets, which are more than enough to to get you on paper. Regardless, it is incumbent on the competitor to take advantage when such sight-in periods are offered, and to have a pretty good idea of what their 1000 yd zero will be via ballistic program outputs prepared using their known muzzle velocity and bullet BC. There will usually be assistance/spotters available for those that need some help getting dialed in.
 
Edited to add: if you look at some of the three-way adjustable rifle butt plates (link below), the pad/plate that contacts the shoulder can often be tilted/angled as you have tilted/angled the entire rifle in your picture. It's possible that tilting just the butt plate that contacts the shoulder could provide the "feel" you're looking for, without having to tilt the entire rifle. Something to consider, anyhow.

You are spot on! I reset my scope square and plumb to the leveled receiver, then I did a little magic to my AR style buffer tube to be able to cant the stock to fit my shoulder and presto!! I am going to try this in the field shortly but it feels right when shouldered and scope alignment is there. Thanks!
 
When I shot High Power Service Rifle, I used a slight inward can't for the prone stages. This is when we ran iron sights only, had my 300 yd and 600 yd zeroes and knew what to put on for wind. Made Master classification. With the scope leveled with cant, I bet it'll work.

True. But I was trying to dial at diff ranges out to 1000 and it would have conformed to ballistics tables if I had just shot to zero at 100 with the same offset as the scope had. Ie .75 in left offset so you shoot poa at .75 in to left of bulls. Then all would be in synch for vertical/horizontal adjustments out to long distance. Only way to do it. But I figured out the cant was fitting to me because the stock now fit my shoulder crease, so I adjusted the stock by canting it outwards ( can do with my AR type buffer tube) and then it felt right but the scope/receiver remained vertical to the earth. Easy fix! I am not shooting heavy recoil round so dosent affect barrel jump with non squared up stock. I guess I could twist my brake if I had to offset any weird barrel jump, if it became an issue.
 
I think it will work… as long as your can’t is consistent and the crosshairs are plumb, adjustments should work… as long as they are plumb and your can’t is consistent…

1. Try a box test and verify.
2. Your comfort and ability to get in a good, repeatable position are most important… as long as it’s repeatable and allows for a good hold, sight picture, NPA, trigger pull and follow through… I’d think anyway…

Try it and see…
 
The only thing your doing is training yourself to create problems for yourself. If you like trying to create poor shooting technique,, you nailed it!

I will assure not one single top shooter would agree its good if you like it, but even more so assure you not a single one would setup a rifle like this on purpose!

Something to think about.
 
The only thing your doing is training yourself to create problems for yourself. If you like trying to create poor shooting technique,, you nailed it!

I will assure not one single top shooter would agree its good if you like it, but even more so assure you not a single one would setup a rifle like this on purpose!

Something to think about.

Depends on what kind of rifle you are shooting for what purpose and if and prone, offhand, bench etc! Lots of competition shooters go canted. Some lay on bellys right behind the rifle, some do bench and only touch trigger..... etc etc
 
I think it will work… as long as your can’t is consistent and the crosshairs are plumb, adjustments should work… as long as they are plumb and your can’t is consistent…

1. Try a box test and verify.
2. Your comfort and ability to get in a good, repeatable position are most important… as long as it’s repeatable and allows for a good hold, sight picture, NPA, trigger pull and follow through… I’d think anyway…

Try it and see…

I dont need to . The geometry trumps any experiments. I took me a while to 'see the light'! You have to visualize your bullet trajectory as a 3d arc leavin the barrel and dropping verically and then where your straight line of sight is in relation to this. Both only line up vertically and horizontally when your line of sight is directly on top of the barrel and in line with the imaginary trajectory drop....if your line of sight is off the top and to the side then you have two diverging lines where the poa is only at 'zero' where they intersect. Any scope adjustments will thus be off for closer and farther ranges. How much they will be off is probably minimal at long range zero, and with long range influences, but if you want to start off with a square and aligned rifle then the scope needs to be on top of and aligned with the bullet's flightpath. Thats is what i learned from starting this thread, unknowing, and now I have figure it out, thanks to help, I'm stickin to it!!!
 
Any scope adjustments will thus be off for closer and farther ranges. How much they will be off is probably minimal at long range zero, and with long range influences, but if you want to start off with a square and aligned rifle then the scope needs to be on top of and aligned with the bullet's flightpath. Thats is what i learned from starting this thread, unknowing, and now I have figure it out, thanks to help, I'm stickin to it!!!

Correct. For years we have been mounting one type of sight top dead center and another at 45° on carbines. Such as a glass optic on top and a heads up at a 45°. For the glass we hold as normal, for the heads up we simply rotate the gun 45° counter clockwise to bring the heads up to top dead center. Recoil and hold will change slightly that we train to over come, but zero and trajectory are the same principle.
 
As long as your scope crosshairs are plumb to the earth and the level is an indication of your crosshairs being level... there should be no issue from a physics standpoint. However, are you going to be able to hold that rifle the same way and manage recoil the same way shot after shot? Practice with it and test it.
 
As long as your scope crosshairs are plumb to the earth and the level is an indication of your crosshairs being level... there should be no issue from a physics standpoint. However, are you going to be able to hold that rifle the same way and manage recoil the same way shot after shot? Practice with it and test it.
Not correct! ( the physics part). I guess hold rifle same way you do when not canted.
 
forget all the mumbo jumbo.....you have planed out the scope the way you like it for cant. The elevation and windage knobs are now squared up from 12 to 6 and from 3 to 9, meaning when you go left on the scope the POI will go dead left and when you add elevation, the POI will go up at 12 oclock........

get your zeros, and just make sure you hold the same degree of cant at all times and your zeros will be as good as anyone's who shoots without a cant....
 
forget all the mumbo jumbo.....you have planed out the scope the way you like it for cant. The elevation and windage knobs are now squared up from 12 to 6 and from 3 to 9, meaning when you go left on the scope the POI will go dead left and when you add elevation, the POI will go up at 12 oclock........

get your zeros, and just make sure you hold the same degree of cant at all times and your zeros will be as good as anyone's who shoots without a cant....
No it wont! If your line of sight poa through the scope is not parallel and on top of your bullet arc then dial adjustments will not be in sych with the bullet path. The only thing you can to do with a canted rifle is hit your zero mark where your line of sight and bullet arc intersect. Took me a while to comprehend this because I am thick headed! The amount of error might be negligible but it is still there, and probably more significant at long distance.
 

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