DirtySteve
Gold $$ Contributor
No worries. Years ago, there was very cool thread at Sniper's Hide on this very topic. The circumstance wasn't exactly the same as what you did with the offset scope, but a similar idea. It was a very interesting read. In any event, the geometry of what is happening with regard to the scope mounting position, the tilt of the rifle and resultant effect on recoil and trajectory, and the possible effect on turret adjustments can be very complex and hard to decipher at just a glance. A simple shooting test as I described carried out at distance where a single turret is adjusted and the effect (if any) on the other turret adjustment plane/direction is relatively painless, and then you'll know one way or the other. If you ever decide to carry out such a test, I'd appreciate hearing about the result. Best of luck with it!Thanks for taking the time. I had not thought about recoil impulse effects! I think I will reset to conventional mount and one day do some experimenting when I have the time, and If I do not get used to my new stock beforehand! ps: yes I might get better feel by buying a tilting butt plate. My MPA chassis has this.
This is correct up here.It’s parallel with the bore, but that would be true at any position on the clock face. Assume you mount it at 9 o’clock. It still can be parallel. The trouble is that the bullet will fall straight down, always to the right of the crosshairs.
When you click to make impact coincide with the crosshairs, that’s only going to be precise at one exact distance. It will impact to the right until the intersection with the crosshairs and left of them beyond that distance.
When not level /plumb and at the 12, 3, 6, or 9 clock positions to the bore, or when perfectly level at any other position of the clock face relative to the bore, a scope will move impact both up and down AND right and left when you click either knob. How much so, is a trig function.
This is correct up here.
By making the scope plumb with gravity but offset, an elevation change will only be an elevation change. The issue will be changing distances. If you zero it in at say 500, anything closer will be shooting to the right slightly, and anything over 500 will be shooting to the left. The closer the zero the worse the offset at larger distances.
This will work for a fixed target distance game with no guessing and no ranging, and explains nat's service rifle experience and my silhouette experience. You wont see an army unit use it, but since we are only competing it just depends on the game if it is viable or not
This is correct up here.
By making the scope plumb with gravity but offset, an elevation change will only be an elevation change. The issue will be changing distances. If you zero it in at say 500, anything closer will be shooting to the right slightly, and anything over 500 will be shooting to the left. The closer the zero the worse the offset at larger distances.
This will work for a fixed target distance game with no guessing and no ranging, and explains nat's service rifle experience and my silhouette experience. You wont see an army unit use it, but since we are only competing it just depends on the game if it is viable or not
Why does it feel so much better. You body is built like everyone elses. There are so many thinks that have to be done correctly to shoot competively. Why introduce a strange variable?I just re-stocked my 6br with a MDT chassis and magul prs lite ar15 style butt stock. This ar15 type setup feels so much better when I shoot it canted inwards about 10-15deg. I have straight rings - zero moa. I dont shoot prone.
I re-levelled the scope off a tilting bipod using a plumb line out 30 yds with the cant hold that felt comfortable. And then I adjusted my scope mounted level to the same plumb line. Therefore the scope vertical stadia are in synch with the level.
I know there have been debates over this setup before but the confusion originates on whether or not a +moa rail was being used, which will throw off windage calcs, other than at the zero distance.
In my case the scope is perfectly aligned with the bore and aligned to gravity when at the cant angle. I would like to be able try out this configuration for ranging and dialing at varied distances out to 1000 using my conventional dope.
Anyone see any reasons why my configuration wont work identically to a 'straight up on top' conventional scope setup?
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Why does Tubb make a rifle that can be shot canted? Why do many shoot canted in competition? Inquiring minds want to know!Why does it feel so much better. You body is built like everyone elses. There are so many thinks that have to be done correctly to shoot competively. Why introduce a strange variable?
For most people, canting the rifle helps keep your head upright in standing position. This improves your balance and decreases wobble in your stance.Why does Tubb make a rifle that can be shot canted? Why do many shoot canted in competition? Inquiring minds want to know!
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Interesting but i think if one wants to shoot canted and have the normal trajectory then mount sight corrected like in pic. I wonder if anyone makes rings to counter the offset? Ie 10 deg rings?Some ballistic calcs have a spot to input your scope offset (horizontal). The windage really is not that big of a deal. If you have your scope offset 1/2" from the bore due to the canted setup it just means the bullet will start off 1/2" to the right of your line of sight. You can choose to leave it 1/2" to the right or "zero" the gun at a certain distance. Kinda depends on your preference. For example if you sight the gun to shoot 1/2" right at 200 yards then the bullets will stay parallel to your line of sight at any distance. They will always be 1/2" right until acted upon by wind or whatever. If you sight the gun in to hit the bullseye at 200 then the bullets will be traveling sideways at a rate of 1/2" per 200 yards. You'll hit 1/2" left at 400, 1" left at 600, etc. But given the fact that both spin drift and coriolis will tend to push your bullets to the right anyway...those factors will tend to cancel each other out. The big picture is that you can correct for a canted gun quite easily if you want to.
I don't see anything wrong with trying it to see if it is for you. If you're shooting like that now and it's working there is no reason to change.Interesting but i think if one wants to shoot canted and have the normal trajectory then mount sight corrected like in pic. I wonder if anyone makes rings to counter the offset? Ie 10 deg rings?
For my field/hunting rifles I have always set up the scope by plumb bob based on my standing hold. With a midrange zero the offset would be negligible for minute of animal. Never thought more about it. But for me wanting to try dialing for accuracy with a cant hold at varied distances it is confirmed that it wont 'work'. BUT this company can make you custom rings to counter your preferred cant angle to make it work!. ( per Tubb)I shoot with a cant for prone and similar cant for standing so I level the crosshairs and shoot canted with a scope level vertically and horizontally. I have lost no sleep over it or worried about points.
Kenny
Custom rings? Just loosen the screws on any rings and rotate. Am I missing something here?For my field/hunting rifles I have always set up the scope by plumb bob based on my standing hold. With a midrange zero the offset would be negligible for minute of animal. Never thought more about it. But for me wanting to try dialing for accuracy with a cant hold at varied distances it is confirmed that it wont 'work'. BUT this company can make you custom rings to counter your preferred cant angle to make it work!. ( per Tubb)