Savage barrel install

[DLT]

I am about to re-install a barrel on my model 12. I can do it without much trouble but I don’t see much talk about keeping the action from slipping while tightening the barrel nut that I experienced the first time. Of course it wasn’t much and I didn’t have any issues once it was tight and my brass was just fine growth wise upon firing. Is there much of a way to keep the action from turning as I’m torquing the nut ? Thanks in advance guys

 

[6MMsteve]

I am about to re-install a barrel on my model 12. I can do it without much trouble but I don’t see much talk about keeping the action from slipping while tightening the barrel nut that I experienced the first time. Of course it wasn’t much and I didn’t have any issues once it was tight and my brass was just fine growth wise upon firing. Is there much of a way to keep the action from turning as I’m torquing the nut ? Thanks in advance guys

I have used a brass rod stuck in the receiver and held the action while tightening it up, but I don't torque very hard just snug and go, that was before I had a action wrench, I would get light pressure on the go gauge and not use the nogo, because I'm tight on the go gauge using new brass measuring the go gauge and comparing to the new brass I will give it .0015 of clearance, if this makes sense, if your tight on the go the nogo is .004 +/- .001, be better if you had a action wrench from Northland

 

[SKWERLZ]

Action wrench, internal or external.
You can also shim a go gauge with packing tape till it’s tight, that helps keep action from moving relative to the barrel.

 

[NorCalMikie]

I use (snug) sized brass to set head space. None of my rigs will chamber factory loaded ammo. All on the snug side so no brass is sized more than needed.
(lasts longer that way)
Me? Action on the right, barrel on the left (depending on what feels best to you) in a padded vice, run the barrel in close, spin the nut down, nut wrench close to or on the nut.
Case in the action (bolt head) open and close the bolt, (not all the way) turn the barrel in till you get a little resistance, snug the nut. Open and close the bolt.
Feel good? Tap the nut wrench and check again, once more, how does it feel? Good? Go shooting.
And the "tap" on the nut wrench will a steel hammer is good enough.
Out of HOW MANY (???), never had a nut/barrel come loose.

 

[rjtfroggy]

^^^^^^ This and I like Nor Cal have done many barrels on Savage actions.

 

[NorCalMikie]

It is NOT rocket science. Don't make it harder than it is.

 

[46and2]

I use (snug) sized brass to set head space. None of my rigs will chamber factory loaded ammo. All on the snug side so no brass is sized more than needed.
(lasts longer that way)
Me? Action on the right, barrel on the left (depending on what feels best to you) in a padded vice, run the barrel in close, spin the nut down, nut wrench close to or on the nut.
Case in the action (bolt head) open and close the bolt, (not all the way) turn the barrel in till you get a little resistance, snug the nut. Open and close the bolt.
Feel good? Tap the nut wrench and check again, once more, how does it feel? Good? Go shooting.
And the "tap" on the nut wrench will a steel hammer is good enough.
Out of HOW MANY (???), never had a nut/barrel come loose.

What is important for the OP to understand, tight headspace is OK but he still has to ensure that his sizing dies will size the cases enough. Also, you want little room( .010 to .015") between the breach face and the bolt nose cone. It is possible to overdo it.