LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
I'd keep'em flush... they just need to be a size or two bigger in my chuck.
Indicating & reaming throat under jaws/spider
- Thread starter Henryrifle
- Start date
I'd keep'em flush... they just need to be a size or two bigger in my chuck.
VA_XTC_Shooter
Silver $$ Contributor
I like your testing apparatus! Good idea.
Them bolts sticking out scare the ----- out of me.
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
^^^^^^^^^^^
As a guy who's arm was doing 1250RPM's once there is no way I'd have a setup like that.
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
How's that little adapter work? Are you testing the barrel before installing the extension?
ridgeway
Silver $$ Contributor
I am guessing they are like that so it's not over torqued. I've seen some very worn back plates where the set screw contacts. They aren't made to get that extra thou out of it with a cheater bar attached
There is a small range of movement and if you can't get it with a small wrench...that's all it has.Barrels are all fully done, headspaced to the same number on my jig. Sent to the meloniting place.
Barrel extensions loosen up during meloniting. Usual process, unscrew the BE, clean up the meloniting residue (these barrels have been sitting in a tub of water for over a week), then test barrels before retorquing the BE.
The HS in the bolt gun is set to match the 13/16-20 tpi x 0.920 tenon only, not the M16 tenon.
Testing is at 600 on long line ammo only. Short line ammo is not that critical, as we're dealing with 7 inch 10 ring and 3 inch X ring. Some of the juniors are posting high X counts across.
The stock is cut short enough to clamp barrel so we don't have to pull out the barreled receiver to swap barrels. Side port wrench works well.
I don't think I have come across exactly how to make these blocks. I can think of a couple of ways, but my usual approach to such stuff leaves them less precise and worse looking than I want.
So you would cut each piece out and then mill the groove on each one? I was thinking along those lines.....
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
Depends what scraps I had laying around I could use. I'd do them all at once... band saw them into 4 parts... end mill to clean up the ends.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
It doesnt really matter how you do it nor if theyre exactly the same. Running a 1” ball mill down the middle of 1 or 4 pieces will get you there
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Thats thinking
Alex Wheeler
Site $$ Sponsor
When you need to hold a round part in a vice you use v-blocks...
I made some very heavy duty clamps with an overly complicated swivel foot.
Took the threaded rod, drilled and tapped the end to take a cap head bolt, use a ball end mill to remove the hex from the bolt and provide a radius for a ball bearing to sit in
Machine up a backing "cup" with a through hole larger than the cap head bolt thread. Make the cup deep enough for the head of the bolt and to allow part of the ball to be exposed. Place the cup against the all thread and wind the bolt in with plenty of locktite leaving some play between the thread, cup and bolt. Drop the ball into the end of the cap head.
Machine up a disk that matches the OD of the cup and use the ball end mill to put a radius in the centre of the disk. Tig weld disk to cup and you have an overly complex contained swivel foot!! Or if you want to get fancy you could thread the disc and cup together
@X Count: I think I understand what you are describing but not sure. That setup won't articulate any more than a barrel being held by 4 brass inserts will it? Your chamber flush plumbing works great!!! Thank you.
It seems like the best solution to getting the chamber/bore/throat running true is the True Bore Alignment System. I have an inexpensive Grizzly lathe and if I thought my equipment was rigid enough to work with a TBAS, I'd order one but it seems like the inboard spider -- keeping the work pice as close to the headstock bearings as possible is the best approach for my situation.
The learning from this thread for me is to stop I holding the barrel directly over the freebore area.
Thanks,
Hank
It seems like the best solution to getting the chamber/bore/throat running true is the True Bore Alignment System. I have an inexpensive Grizzly lathe and if I thought my equipment was rigid enough to work with a TBAS, I'd order one but it seems like the inboard spider -- keeping the work pice as close to the headstock bearings as possible is the best approach for my situation.
The learning from this thread for me is to stop I holding the barrel directly over the freebore area.
Thanks,
Hank
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