To be fair, it's hard to pay *more* than $20 for a power supply. It's nothing fancy. Just a run of the mill part on amazon. As long as the current, voltage, and polarity are right it'll be fine.
Battery to load at the range, for bench rest competition. The v4 comes with a power supply for home use.
I do use battery at home. When the battery is charging and I need to reload then I use the 120V receptacle.
The picture of the power supply shows that it provides up to 2 amps at 12V. If your battery can do that, you're good to go. Just make sure to get the polarity right.Okay, All of the responses are REALLY appreciated, weather in favor of doing this or not, BUT, Nobody has answered my original question
I guess I will have to wait & see when it arive, Thanks everybody
Steve helped me out to get my Flashfish 300 watt wired correctly to use direct DC from the Flashfish. I had to make a special cord to flip the polarity on the Flashfish DC output because the V3 wall wort uses the opposite polarity.
Steve, can you comment on whether or not we should be put an inline fuse in the cable between the Flashfish and the A&D fx120i scale and the V3 autothrow and autotrickler setup?? Thanks a million for your help.
Can you explain which line should have the fuse (I’m assuming the positive wire from the Flashfish. Also, what size fuse would you use??
Will the correct voltage still get through to run the A&D fx120i, autothrow and autotrickler? I have some inline fuse holders in my kit downstairs.
Sure you can do that. I’m talking about running the scale off of the DC output in the Flashfish.
When we talked, it was about a cable to run from the Flashfish to the scale. I answered your fuse questions assuming you were powering only the scale.
Wall warts are poor quality sources of power and pretty much guaranteed generators of EMI. The point of using a battery is to eliminate EMI.
I picked up an APC 550G that my neighbor was getting rid of. Had to buy a new battery for it. $25 bucks later I'm in business!
The purpose of that device is to limit voltage in the event the line power from the utility runs too high (surge) and to provide power when the utility service runs low or drops. When the APC is providing power it will likely be a stepped sine wave which is not good. It is probably not going to provide clean power. It will also likely generate EMI when inverting.
I disagree on this. If the circuit breaks, the circuit breaks, so it doesn't matter where you put the fuse, except that it's better closer to the battery because it leaves less opportunity for an unprotected short. I would also bump it up a little over 2 amps. The sort of thing you are trying to protect against is going to draw a lot more than 2 amps, and you don't want to cut the available current to the motors needlessly or risk it blowing in normal operation.
