dcali
Bullet Maker
The A&D scales work perfectly plugging them straight into the wall. The only reason to use a battery is when line power isn't available. I'm not sure how people think these scales were designed to be used.
autotrickler V4 wall wart output?
- Thread starter OMW57
- Start date
. As mentioned earlier, other industries use these scales in thousands and plug them in to regular 120V receptacles without any issues.
Yet some of us (me included) like to make things complicated by adding batteries, fuses, inline conditioners, banana peel, bread crumbs...to the equation. It is more fun that way
Yet some of us (me included) like to make things complicated by adding batteries, fuses, inline conditioners, banana peel, bread crumbs...to the equation. It is more fun that way
MikeRu
Gold $$ Contributor
A little extra fun never hurts!
Do watch out though, I had an Autozone employee tell me that a used (defective) 12 V battery started a fire and burned down one of their stores here in WV. Maybe test it regularly, and don’t store it with your old match targets!
Attachments
Damn Mike, looks like you kept your targets from early 1800. Looks like I am not the only one.
This is one of several threads on the subject of battery power and the RCBS Chargemaster.
The direction of current flow really matters not. Current flow can be viewed two ways, I saw mention of that earlier. It can be viewed as electron flow or conventional flow. Really unless anyone is into semi-conductor design it matters not. You can place an inline fuse on the high side or low side. Personally I fuse high side simply because I did it that way in designs. Does it matter in a design like we are looking at? I can't see where.
In the linked old thread, one of several, myself and another forum member noticed some RCBS Chargemaster units shipped with a 12 volt wall wart (or wall wort if you prefer) and some with a 9 volt. Why was that? Because all RCBS Chargemaster units have a LM7805 voltage regulator internal. Matter of fact the 5 volt regulator is the first stop from the external power connector point. Now figure a few things at this point. The LM7805 is an old, very old (circa 1980) voltage regulator. The maximum current was 1 amp. There is no need to get into detail as to how it works. Suffice to say there are much better solutions available today. All here nor there. The idea being provide clean DC power to a load.
I did measure the actual current at highest case with the powder dispense running full and the current was low enough that it was figured that a 8.0 AH (Amp Hour) SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) battery would run the Chargemaster for about 32 continuous hours. More than I plan on for a day at the range.
Units like a Flatfish Portable Power Station are fine if you want 120 VAC on a range but I see no need. Also, as mentioned, while the Flatfish advertises a true sine wave out many similar deliver a modified sine wave out. Make real sure whatever you plug in will run on a MSW rather than TRW waveform.
Back to batteries. When choosing a battery other than the voltage rating you want to know the AH (Amp Hour) rating since that will tell you how long your battery will support your load. Back to the Chargemaster. Running on 12 VDC the RCBS Chargemaster draws about 40 mA when just measuring and when dispensing that increases to 200 mA. What that current tells us is that running dispensing full load of 200 mA (0.2 Amp) is in theory a 1.0 AH 12 volt battery will run the load for 5.0 hours. You don't need a hell of a lot of battery. What is needed is knowing the actual load current and AH rating of the battery.
I would not bother using a Flatfish or similar supply since I see no reason to use a battery to drive an inverter to get 120 VAC only to then reduce it to a low voltage DC which is where it all began. With the 12 volts a known I would find the max current load and do the math to derive run time approximations.
Ron
The direction of current flow really matters not. Current flow can be viewed two ways, I saw mention of that earlier. It can be viewed as electron flow or conventional flow. Really unless anyone is into semi-conductor design it matters not. You can place an inline fuse on the high side or low side. Personally I fuse high side simply because I did it that way in designs. Does it matter in a design like we are looking at? I can't see where.
In the linked old thread, one of several, myself and another forum member noticed some RCBS Chargemaster units shipped with a 12 volt wall wart (or wall wort if you prefer) and some with a 9 volt. Why was that? Because all RCBS Chargemaster units have a LM7805 voltage regulator internal. Matter of fact the 5 volt regulator is the first stop from the external power connector point. Now figure a few things at this point. The LM7805 is an old, very old (circa 1980) voltage regulator. The maximum current was 1 amp. There is no need to get into detail as to how it works. Suffice to say there are much better solutions available today. All here nor there. The idea being provide clean DC power to a load.
I did measure the actual current at highest case with the powder dispense running full and the current was low enough that it was figured that a 8.0 AH (Amp Hour) SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) battery would run the Chargemaster for about 32 continuous hours. More than I plan on for a day at the range.
Units like a Flatfish Portable Power Station are fine if you want 120 VAC on a range but I see no need. Also, as mentioned, while the Flatfish advertises a true sine wave out many similar deliver a modified sine wave out. Make real sure whatever you plug in will run on a MSW rather than TRW waveform.
Back to batteries. When choosing a battery other than the voltage rating you want to know the AH (Amp Hour) rating since that will tell you how long your battery will support your load. Back to the Chargemaster. Running on 12 VDC the RCBS Chargemaster draws about 40 mA when just measuring and when dispensing that increases to 200 mA. What that current tells us is that running dispensing full load of 200 mA (0.2 Amp) is in theory a 1.0 AH 12 volt battery will run the load for 5.0 hours. You don't need a hell of a lot of battery. What is needed is knowing the actual load current and AH rating of the battery.
I would not bother using a Flatfish or similar supply since I see no reason to use a battery to drive an inverter to get 120 VAC only to then reduce it to a low voltage DC which is where it all began. With the 12 volts a known I would find the max current load and do the math to derive run time approximations.
Ron
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