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6.5 Creedmoor vs. Other 6.5mm Chamberings

Didn't read through the whole thread... Sorry...

But, there are well over 50 different 6.5mm caliber (.264") cartridges. I wouldn't be surprised if there is more than 60 ( 6.5mm ) cartridges. Many are probably obsolete... however there is probably 30 or so 6.5mm / .264" chamberings still being used today.

This is the problem with most folks using the word caliber when they're talking about a cartridge / chambering.

Even then,... a 308 winchester / 7.62 Nato, is the same caliber as a 300 WinMag and a 30'06. It's just a name.

At the range when someone asks me "what caliber is your rifle", I answer, "30" or 24" and a couple seconds later I say 308 Winchester or 243 Winchester etc..
 
IMR 4350 Powder, Lapua Brass. Just deciding on projectiles.

@Mr Wick , uncertain if you're still considering which bullets to use for this recipe (6.5CM, IMR 4350, Lapua brass).

I've used these two and they work very well.

  • 140gr 6.5CM Nosler RDF, 0.658 G1 BC -- in-stock at Bud's Gun Shop in the 500ct boxes for $0.45 a bullet; also in-stock at Palmetto State Armory and Grafs.
  • 140gr 6.5CM Hornady ELD-M, 0.646 G1 BC -- in-stock at Grafs, 100ct boxes at $0.44 a bullet, and the 2000ct cases at $0.38 a bullet.
 
Easy(safe) way into a new cartridge reloading experience, follow load data for the specific bullet. Using a well recommended powder for the cartridge/bullet combo and a consistent charge weight between min/max and seating the bullet to recommended length. Will often produce ammo that shoots better than a factory rd with the same bullet.
 
Wick - I haven't read every response to your initial question but to ensure you understand...

European measure the BORE size - 6.5mm (metric), the U.S. goes by the groove/bullet diameter, .264" (Imperial). That is why some people are confused when they convert Imperial to metric for certain cartridges .264 x 25.5 = 6. 7056, e.g., 5.56mm/.224".

I won't get into the .223 Remington, 9mm/.380 ACP, .38 Special/.357 Magnum, .22Hornet (vintage/contemporary) ... o_O

Just be careful and do your research.
 
Thank you all so much. I am running:

IMR4350 Powder
Lapua Brass (6.5mm)
Hornaday ELD Match 140 Grain Bullets (.264)
CCI 200 Primers
Redding Type S Full Length Sizer with SAC Bushings
Redding Type S Bullet Seater
Magnetospeed V3 Chronograph

Have not received my 21st Century Die with Mandrel Kit yet.

I will most likely be shooting this Tuesday or Wednesday.
 
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Thank you all so much. I am running:

IMR4350 Powder
Lapua Brass (6mm)
Hornaday ELD Match 140 Grain Bullets (.264)
CCI 200 Primers
Redding Type S Full Length Sizer with SAC Bushings
Redding Type S Bullet Seater
Magnetospeed V3 Chronograph

Have not received my 21st Century Die with Mandrel Kit yet.

I will most likely be shooting this Tuesday or Wednesday.
Is the Lapua brass 6mm or 6.5, and does it accept small or large primers?
 
I've been loading the infamous 6.5 Creedmoor (which I call the Mighty Creed to piss off the Creedmoor haters) for a number of years now. The components you have selected will work fine. The main difference between what you are using and what I am using is that I use H4350 instead of IMR. Burn rate seems to be about the same but IMR is a bit more temperature sensitive. Or so the H5350 marketing materials and urban legend say. I'm using the Lapua small rifle primer brass and CCI 450 primers which are the magnum small rifle primers. The main reason I went that route is that my loads are a "bit" hotter than some books recommend and I shoot a lot. With the small primer brass the primer pockets seem to hold up longer. More brass around the pocket. I am using the Berger 140 grain Hybrid Target bullets rather than the Hornady's. I have found them to shoot a bit better in the barrels I've had screwed onto my actions. I do use the Hornady gauge to determine seating depth which some take issue with. We can argue the benefits of closing on a dummy round versus using the gauge till our heads cave in and never get any ammo loaded. I'll let others do that arguing while I'm out shooting. I start at about 20 thousands off and have found that that is often the best jump. Or at least not any worse that other jumps or jams I've tried.

Have fun with it. I load for a wide variety of cartridges and find the 6.5 Creedmoor the easiest to tune of all of them.
 

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