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340 Weatherby Reloading

65swede

Silver $$ Contributor
I traded into a 340 this week and received 35 pieces of this vintage brass from fired factory ammo. I want to work up some loads and see where it fits between my 338 win mag and 338 edge.

How does the older Weatherby brass rate against the current brass available? I'm debating on whether or not I need to buy new brass for a rifle I may not keep. This is my first weatherby cartridge, I'm figuring it out as I go.

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I believe it is a fibermark in an Aramid stock. I have 225gr accubonds, 230gr ELD-X, R23, R25, 7828ssc, IMR4831 to start with. I think I can get 250gr Accubonds and 250gr Berger EH locally. The scope needs to be swapped, I have a meopta that should work, but I need a better mounting system. The rings are so low the bolt rubs the rear of the scope when cycled.

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Years ago some complained about Weatherby brass being a little on the soft side. I didn't have a problem but Winchester 300 H&H brass was easy to find and fire formed win brass seemed a bit stouter.
Nice looking hunting rifle Swede! A few tattoos to make sure it's not a Safe Queen!
 
Years ago some complained about Weatherby brass being a little on the soft side. I didn't have a problem but Winchester 300 H&H brass was easy to find and fire formed win brass seemed a bit stouter.
Nice looking hunting rifle Swede! A few tattoos to make sure it's not a Safe Queen!

Good to know, I definitely want to load this up to Weatherby potential. I came across some info on sizing and fire forming 375 H&H brass which got me looking for a supply. Found some PPU and RWS at Huntington's that looks to be in stock. The cost of the RWS looks to be on par with Weatherby, Norma, Peterson 340 headstamp brass. The PPU was much more cost effective.

Sizing up sounds easier now that I think about it.
 
I believe you have a Mark V Alaskan. I had a couple, the stock is different but the nickel finish what the Alaskans came in
 
if you do nothing else with the old rings save them for parts.
they are good rings just not to user friendly to install in my opinion.
Nice rifle and still have the best action I have seen.
 
I traded into a 340 this week and received 35 pieces of this vintage brass from fired factory ammo. I want to work up some loads and see where it fits between my 338 win mag and 338 edge.

How does the older Weatherby brass rate against the current brass available? I'm debating on whether or not I need to buy new brass for a rifle I may not keep. This is my first weatherby cartridge, I'm figuring it out as I go.

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It is superab big game caliber. You will see no difference between the .340 and your edge. My buddy acquired one in the 60s and we loaded it with Norma 205 and then MRP and 250 noslers about 2900 fps. Absolutely killed every thing from deer to grizzly.
 
I shot the 340 over the weekend. 3 off the bench was enough for me. Shot about a 2" group at 100 yards with the old factory ammo I got with the rifle. 3rd shot might have been pulled/flinched high by me, first two shots were ~1" from each other. I can't imagine working up a load without a brake. Still on the fence about keeping this one.
 
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I shot the 340 over the weekend. 3 off the bench was enough for me. Shot about a 2" group at 100 yards with the old factory ammo I got with the rifle. 3rd shot might have been pulled/flinched high by me, first two shots were ~1" from each other. I can't imagine working up a load without a brake. Still on the fence about keeping this one.
How's the throat?
 
I have hunted with many 340 Weatherby rifles... both in the Rockies and in Africa.

Used 210 and 250 Nosler Partitions and 250 Swift A-frames.

Never shot a factory round, but used the brass you have pictured.

Never used a muzzle brake.

It is a great cartridge.
 
I shot the 340 over the weekend. 3 off the bench was enough for me. Shot about a 2" group at 100 yards with the old factory ammo I got with the rifle. 3rd shot might have been pulled/flinched high by me, first two shots were ~1" from each other. I can't imagine working up a load without a brake. Still on the fence about keeping this one.
The fast .338s have a very sharp recoil on the bench. Standing isn't too bad but won't work well working up loads. Sounds like you need a break that is removeable. In the field you don't notice the recoil. Depending on what you intend to hunt, you may be better off with a .30 cal or 7mm.
 
The fast .338s have a very sharp recoil on the bench. Standing isn't too bad but won't work well working up loads. Sounds like you need a break that is removeable. In the field you don't notice the recoil. Depending on what you intend to hunt, you may be better off with a .30 cal or 7mm.

The 340 is definitely in a different league than the 338 win mag. Doesn't help that the recoil pad on this 340 has become pretty hard. Maybe I'm just getting soft.
 
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It is superab big game caliber. You will see no difference between the .340 and your edge. My buddy acquired one in the 60s and we loaded it with Norma 205 and then MRP and 250 noslers about 2900 fps. Absolutely killed every thing from deer to grizzly.

That's the draw for me. I like the energy and range of my edge, but it's a 13lb gun. Not something I want to haul around on an elk hunt. A few months ago I was thinking about a lighter Edge for hunting, then this one fell into my lap.
 
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That's the draw for me. I like the energy and range of my edge, but it's a 13lb gun. Not something I want to haul around on an elk hunt. A few months ago I was thinking about a lighter Edge for hunting, then this one fell into my lap.
The edge will recoil about the same as the .340 in equal weight rifles. Depending on your age, size, and physical condition you can manage about a 10# rifle but fast snap shooting will be slower. In my experience recoil is not a factor when hunting as you never really feel it during the excitement of the shot. If you want to spot your own shots you will need a good brake and a lot less than a fast .338 cal.
 

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