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Threading barrels

This- and I zero the "Z" axis on the DRO at the pull-out location. For me, I'm more accurate timing the countdown to "0" than eyeballing when to snatch the tool out before it crashes.
I find a dial indicator on the carriage is a better visual to time the pull out compared to watching a DRO count down. It is easier to build in a little windage with the dial. Analog is better than digital for this.
 
I find a dial indicator on the carriage is a better visual to time the pull out compared to watching a DRO count down. It is easier to build in a little windage with the dial. Analog is better than digital for this.
Stopping the thread without a relief requires trust and muscle memory.
 
I find a dial indicator on the carriage is a better visual to time the pull out compared to watching a DRO count down. It is easier to build in a little windage with the dial. Analog is better than digital for this.
Thats what is use. I set it to where it touches and and then one round to zero, I start pulling out and disengaging the half nut about .005 before zero. Premature pull out I suppose lol.
 
Like previously mentioned, reacting to a dial indicator off the carriage is much easier than a dro, and zeroing the cross slide at 10 or 11 o’clock.

Another helpful trick for me, after zeroing cross slide and compound, i back out cross slide .040” and advance compound .040”, then advance carriage so the threading insert touches the shoulder, i then set my dial indicator off the carriage. I always use .300 on the dial indicator, for every operation so I never have to remember what my stop point is, when I set it off the shoulder for threading, the crash is .320 and I pull out at .300.

I use similar technique for cutting the tenon, except stop advance at .290 until the last cut when I advance to .300 by hand then cut the shoulder with the last cut.

hope that all makes sense.
 
Fitting... I just started flight school.

My eyes are instruments. :) I see one thread left and have a cadence of how long it takes for a revolution and work from there. I've tried a travel dial but even with slow rpm the dial moves too fast to keep up with for a dozen cuts.
 
Fitting... I just started flight school.

My eyes are instruments. :) I see one thread left and have a cadence of how long it takes for a revolution and work from there. I've tried a travel dial but even with slow rpm the dial moves too fast to keep up with for a dozen cuts.

I'm just finishing my instrument rating. I need about 8 more hours, and a check-ride. That gyro in my head has been very unreliable.
 
I stopped on rotary wing ifr. Havent flown since my kid was born in 2016. My general aviation career cost a ton of money for nothing
 
Whether or not a DRO works well on a countdown depends (I think) on what kind of display you have. If you can read it clearly as it counts down, great. If it’s just a flickery blur, not so good. I watch mine, with it zeroed at my desired stopping point, and disengage when the hundredths digit hits a predetermined point. Depending on rpm & thread pitch, that point will be .01, .02, or .03. My resulting actual stop point rarely varies by more than +/- .003”, or thereabouts.
 
Key to getting a rhythm going is to arrange everything so it is always the same fluid motion to pull out. My half-nut lever disengages by pushing down. I set my cross-slide so that the crank handle is at 9 o'clock (or 3 o'clock for internal threading) so that at the zero on my travel dial, I just push down the half-nut lever with my right hand and push the cross-slide handle down with my left hand. Easy-peasy.

 
More pilots in here than i would have thought, like minds i guess. The Instrument Rating became a necessity to me before I got my ASEL. I rolled right into it two weeks after i got my PPl, then got my AMEL two years later and then instrument for that. I can say that you need to stay current on all aspects of the training, I lost my Gyro in hard IFR last year on approach to KSAT, and was damn glad i had had my bi-annual and IPC recently, so it was all really fresh on my mind. When the other instruments dont agree with the gyro, it gets real, the backup gyro on the other side is a PITA to fly with too.
 
Had to remove the TravADial when I installed a DRO on my 1236. Big regret I have a hard time tracking the spinning numbers counting down to zero. Have to modify the mounting plate for the TravADial mount, so I can have both system.

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How thick is the recoil lug? That seems unnecessarily close.
Alot of custom actions don't use a recoil lug. Usually there is a heavy chamfer and countebored some so you can thread close to shoulder. I thread everything for the most part without relief. Sometimes relief comes after threading of counterbore isn't deep enough...plunge tool in till you make it work...
 

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