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No go gauge alternative

I have the barrel nut wrench. Rigged up a clamp out of a 2x4 with a hole drilled through it and split in half for the bench vise. I didn’t think I was going to get it broke loose. I will not be going that route installing the new barrel
Go ahead and get a barrel vise from 21st century and be done with that
 
A long time ago, a fellow who had retired as an engineer with Savage told me that they set the headspace with something called a swing gauge, that was like a bolt with the gauge built in. The thing was that it was .002 shorter than a GO Gauge. Savage has the reputation of tightening their barrel nuts super tight, and my research has informed me that when that is done, that the headspace is stretched. On the other hand, with a shouldered barrel, apparently the opposite happens.
 
I just had my first kinda wildcat built (6×45) gunsmith asked for 5 cases with a bullet seated at length so he could set head space. He stressed that they were all FL sized. Have not had a ch3to shoot it yet but hes been doing it for a long time.
 
My method of assembling my Remage system could be called the "no vice" method.
I have the nut wrench, and both head-space gauges. After mocking it up a few times to get the feel of things, and making sure everything was clean, I used a sharpie to mark barrel, nut, lug, and receiver to index them with proper head space. (hand tight on the wrench) Then I gave the nut wrench two very scientifically metered "WHACKS". The barrel retained it's location and everything is happy.

After I finished, I put tiny center punch pricks in a line just above the stock, on each of the components. I can remove and replace that barrel, and relocate it to the same place by lining up these marks. jd
 
Savage has the reputation of tightening their barrel nuts super tight, and my research has informed me that when that is done, that the headspace is stretched. On the other hand, with a shouldered barrel, apparently the opposite happens.
All of this is true. I once wondered if the barrel nut was welded on with a factory barrel removal.
And yes, a barrel nut pulls a barrel away from the boltface, to fully engage and spread forces evenly across all tenon/action threads.
A shouldered tenon pulls the barrel toward the boltface, with early tenon threads fully loaded and those closest to shoulder relatively swinging in the wind.
Stud connection -vs- bolt.

If for a standard cartridge, I would just spin the barrel to a new case, where an unloaded bolt handle turns with slight resistance. Tighten the barrel nut and watch the bolt handle drop.
For a wildcat, I would use a go-gauge. No choice.
 
If I go that route vs a action vice how does it keep from marking up my barrel ?
That style barrel vise in my experience always will put some mark on it. You need one with a sleeve to keep from marking the barrel. Here are a few to look at:




I have the last one… good luck!
 
That style barrel vise in my experience always will put some mark on it. You need one with a sleeve to keep from marking the barrel. Here are a few to look at:




I have the last one… good luck!
Haha thanks. But at those prices I’ll put a mark on a barrel lol.
 
Another no-go gauge alternative is steel shim stock added to a go gauge. I cut some this morning and it works great. Easier to do with the rifle in the vertical, but I also found that magnetizing the go gauge helped quite a bit. And no futzing with tape, which I hate to put on and hate to take off.
 
I just had my first kinda wildcat built (6×45) gunsmith asked for 5 cases with a bullet seated at length so he could set head space.
The seated bullet has nothing to do with setting the headspace. Maybe for finding the lands. The head space is gauged off of the case shoulder.
And you can adjust the "brass" head space with a full length sizing die.
You set it the way YOU WANT IT!!
Not one (except my gas guns and 22 RF) of my rigs will chamber factory loaded ammo. a very "snug" SAMMI works real good. The less you move that brass in resizing, the longer it will last.
 
All this on changing a Savage barrel ? I change barrels a lot and I have a once fired case that I set aside for head space for each chambering . And never have any trouble when I change barrels with the brass that has been shot with out Full length sizing when I go back to a different barrel . Am I suppose to have a problem ?
 
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^^^
Dab of grease on the back of the gage holds the shim stock in place when checking while the barrel is still in the headstock ;)
Yeah, thought about that. The gauge does have a hole in the back that any excess could go. I am using 2 .002 shims and with my luck, the little dab will do you will put it out over .008............. :oops:
 
Ive never marked a barrel, not even bead blasted ones, with the 21st century barrel vise
The Davison and Viper will if you tighten them down well…it looks the same design. If Dusty says it won’t, then it won’t and price wise that’s likely your best option.

if you use a piece of barrel muzzle you just cut off and tap the tape right on the edge of the go gauge, it will almost peel off and leave the tape.
 

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