Once tuned and calibrated they are sensitive to a kernel and with the proper oil, dampen out in four seconds.Scott, what is it that you like about the Redding Model 1? I picked up a NIB from Ebay upon you mentioning them last week.
Once tuned and calibrated they are sensitive to a kernel and with the proper oil, dampen out in four seconds.Scott, what is it that you like about the Redding Model 1? I picked up a NIB from Ebay upon you mentioning them last week.
How does the dampening work in these scales?Once tuned and calibrated they are sensitive to a kernel and with the proper oil, dampen out in four seconds.
I use 20 weight motor oil.How does the dampening work in these scales?
Mine definitely takes way more than 4 sec to settle. I haven't had time to throw powder to see how repeatable it is.
I think that someone is going to lube the knife edges with 20 weight oil.I use 20 weight motor oil.
Thank you for that. I’m assuming without basis for doing so that his model 1 scale is oil dampened. However, the earliest model 1s had no dampening trough.I think that someone is going to lube the knife edges with 20 weight oil.
Danny
I had no idea that some were not oil dampened. I just thought that a lot of people might have no idea that at least some had the oil dampener well, and that is what it is for.Thank you for that. I’m assuming without basis for doing so that his model 1 scale is oil dampened. However, the earliest model 1s had no dampening trough.
Scott
That is an Ohaus 304. You can likely sell it on EBay for $200. However, they are essentially the same scales that Ohaus sells to middle school science classrooms at $75 each. The beam heads are large, heavy and not particularly sensitive.
Scott
Backlash in the dial is yet another reason to not buy a 304.I've seen you make this reference bf and don't remember what you reasoning was. Was it lash in the dial?
They take up a lot of space vertically, and maybe/probably even horizontally. That can't be something positive.Backlash in the dial is yet another reason to not buy a 304.
Yes sir. I have ideas.@sparker have you considered manufacturing a scale that comes to the consumer off the shelf the way it needs to be, in other words no tuning required?
I have an Ohaus 1110 that doesn't return to zero when the beam is raised, and when the beam is lowered from the top down to pivot on it's axis, there's always a one tenth or so zero difference between the beam direction up or down, are these scales like the 304's not very sensitive to a powder kernel and is there anything to do to keep the backlash at a minimum.Backlash in the dial is yet another reason to not buy a 304.
Have you cleaned it?I have an Ohaus 1110 that doesn't return to zero when the beam is raised, and when the beam is lowered from the top down to pivot on it's axis, there's always a one tenth or so zero difference between the beam direction up or down, are these scales like the 304's not very sensitive to a powder kernel and is there anything to do to keep the backlash at a minimum.
Yes, I've cleaned the scale as best I could without pulling off the bearing covers to get into the bearings easier. I could change the bearings, I had gotten new bearings from Ohaus that have I've had but before I started that process I wanted to see if there was something more I could do to get the scale functioning.Have you cleaned it?
Unfortunately it looks like you need to go further. Although they may never be kernel sensitive they should certainly return to zero reliably and show deflection with 2-3 kernels of something like Varget.Yes, I've cleaned the scale as best I could without pulling off the bearing covers to get into the bearings easier. I could change the bearings, I had gotten new bearings from Ohaus that have I've had but before I started that process I wanted to see if there was something more I could do to get the scale functioning.