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On beam scales part two

Once tuned and calibrated they are sensitive to a kernel and with the proper oil, dampen out in four seconds.
How does the dampening work in these scales?

Mine definitely takes way more than 4 sec to settle. I haven't had time to throw powder to see how repeatable it is.
 
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I think that someone is going to lube the knife edges with 20 weight oil.

Danny
Thank you for that. I’m assuming without basis for doing so that his model 1 scale is oil dampened. However, the earliest model 1s had no dampening trough.

Scott
 
Thank you for that. I’m assuming without basis for doing so that his model 1 scale is oil dampened. However, the earliest model 1s had no dampening trough.

Scott
I had no idea that some were not oil dampened. I just thought that a lot of people might have no idea that at least some had the oil dampener well, and that is what it is for.

Danny
 
This scale was given to me, Made by Ohaus. I haven’t played with it yet. Is this an upper end scale worth tuning and using?
 

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That is an Ohaus 304. You can likely sell it on EBay for $200. However, they are essentially the same scales that Ohaus sells to middle school science classrooms at $75 each. The beam heads are large, heavy and not particularly sensitive.

Scott
 
That is an Ohaus 304. You can likely sell it on EBay for $200. However, they are essentially the same scales that Ohaus sells to middle school science classrooms at $75 each. The beam heads are large, heavy and not particularly sensitive.

Scott

I've seen you make this reference bf and don't remember what you reasoning was. Was it lash in the dial?
 
Backlash in the dial is yet another reason to not buy a 304.
I have an Ohaus 1110 that doesn't return to zero when the beam is raised, and when the beam is lowered from the top down to pivot on it's axis, there's always a one tenth or so zero difference between the beam direction up or down, are these scales like the 304's not very sensitive to a powder kernel and is there anything to do to keep the backlash at a minimum.
 
I have an Ohaus 1110 that doesn't return to zero when the beam is raised, and when the beam is lowered from the top down to pivot on it's axis, there's always a one tenth or so zero difference between the beam direction up or down, are these scales like the 304's not very sensitive to a powder kernel and is there anything to do to keep the backlash at a minimum.
Have you cleaned it?
 
Have you cleaned it?
Yes, I've cleaned the scale as best I could without pulling off the bearing covers to get into the bearings easier. I could change the bearings, I had gotten new bearings from Ohaus that have I've had but before I started that process I wanted to see if there was something more I could do to get the scale functioning.
 
Yes, I've cleaned the scale as best I could without pulling off the bearing covers to get into the bearings easier. I could change the bearings, I had gotten new bearings from Ohaus that have I've had but before I started that process I wanted to see if there was something more I could do to get the scale functioning.
Unfortunately it looks like you need to go further. Although they may never be kernel sensitive they should certainly return to zero reliably and show deflection with 2-3 kernels of something like Varget.

The first and easiest thing to check is to shine a light down into the damper slot, checking for any fine stray hairs of wire wool etc. that have been attracted to the magnets. Also check that the damper blade is not touching the scale body in the slot, the blade is aluminum on these scales and quite flimsy.

If the damper end in all in order, then you must dive into the knife edge/bearings. The outer cover and bearing is easily inspected, removed and cleaned, unfortunately the inner bearing is not and the spring in the dial system is easily damaged. If you do decide to dig in, once you have the beam removed the knife edges can be removed and honed.
These knife edges are unlike the ones found on the usual reloading scales - they are quite large triangular section steel blocks and are quite easily honed flat on all sides on a flat glass plate.
 

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