Gunsmith Lathe with DRO

[urbanrifleman]

You guys might not know it but this has been an awesome thread. I have learned so much. I feel so much better about trying to make a decision now. I certainly understand there's lots of ways to skin a cat. And I have a specific list of requirements in my head that are different than everyone else's.

I have learned a lot. I hope other people have also

 

[Dgd6mm]

You guys might not know it but this has been an awesome thread. I have learned so much. I feel so much better about trying to make a decision now. I certainly understand there's lots of ways to skin a cat. And I have a specific list of requirements in my head that are different than everyone else's.

I have learned a lot. I hope other people have also

I know I have learned from this thread and probably will never own a lathe.

 

[cmysix]

This is made in Taiwan

PM-1440GT 14"x40" Ultra Precision Lathe

PM-1440GT Main Features Highest Quality Lathe, Made in TAIWAN 3 Phase Model option uses a standard 3 Phase Motor and Power Input 1 Phase Model option now uses a Hitachi VFD driven main motor - This model still only needs 208/240V standard 1 Phase Power in, so this machine operates on standard...

www.precisionmatthews.com

absolutely nothing wrong with Taiwanese machine work.

 

[urbanrifleman]

absolutely nothing wrong with Taiwanese machine work.

Unfortunately I cannot get one of these until summer 2023. None in country.

 

[DaveTooley]

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[LVLAaron]

I definitely don't need the Monarch 10EE that's only 5 miles from my house.

 

[ridgeway]

Trav a dial...used one many of times. It works. Travel dial on a mag base works too. DRO, once you learn how to use it to potential, you won't go back, lol. To this day, I still use a sharpie/paint marker on my boring/threading bars for depth.

 

[butchlambert]

Trav a dial...used one many of times. It works. Travel dial on a mag base works too. DRO, once you learn how to use it to potential, you won't go back, lol. To this day, I still use a sharpie/paint marker on my boring/threading bars for depth.

I can thread with a Trav a Dial at 300, but can't trust a blinking DRO at 100 rpm. Old age I suppose.

 

[butchlambert]

I definitely don't need the Monarch 10EE that's only 5 miles from my house.

Well, what would you do with it if you had it?

 

[xr650rRider]

I can thread with a Trav a Dial at 300, but can't trust a blinking DRO at 100 rpm. Old age I suppose.

That's hauling with 4 TPI, not bad with 40 TPI. I thread away from the chuck and no drama involved, inside or outside, blind hole, no problem.

 

[butchlambert]

That's hauling with 4 TPI, not bad with 40 TPI. I thread away from the chuck and no drama involved, inside or outside, blind hole, no problem.

I'm speaking 16-18TPI as that is the majority of my tenon threads.

 

[LVLAaron]

Well, what would you do with it if you had it?

Polish it and look at it. I just think they're the coolest lookin machine.

 

[xr650rRider]

I'm speaking 16-18TPI as that is the majority of my tenon threads.

I work on the other end also. Using a DRO and threading away, you can insure every thread start is within .0001". Thread any speed your heart desires. VFD and ELS (electronic lead screw) makes it a pleasure to thread anything.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

When I bought a new lathe it was not to improve my work. I had a pretty worn machine I repaired and put new bearings in. I could not make tenth indicator move on a dialed in ground part. Bearings were better that the measuring device. That's all that matters. That lathe needed twist in the bed to account for wear and a little drag from the cartridge lock to cut nice threads. Over 20 records off that machine. I bought a new one because I didnt want to be down searching for or making parts. I wanted to be able to overnight them and get back to work. Yes you can make them but you will cost yourself more than buying them and getting back to work. My new lathe doesn't do better or lesser work. It really is top notch like my last. I cant do any more in a day either. But it is nice to run and since I stand in front of it all day most days that's kind of nice. I'm not sure a new lathe is the answer unless something is wrong with your old one. You can replace bearings

 

[ridgeway]

I can thread with a Trav a Dial at 300, but can't trust a blinking DRO at 100 rpm. Old age I suppose.

Haha...all good. We all are set in our ways to certain extent. I thread fast to external shoulders and use my eyeball to retract. Internal: eyeball to a line on boring bar, lol. The DRO has many positives to them. You are never too old to learn new things Butch, lol

 

[urbanrifleman]

When I bought a new lathe it was not to improve my work. I had a pretty worn machine I repaired and put new bearings in. I could not make tenth indicator move on a dialed in ground part. Bearings were better that the measuring device. That's all that matters. That lathe needed twist in the bed to account for wear and a little drag from the cartridge lock to cut nice threads. Over 20 records off that machine. I bought a new one because I didnt want to be down searching for or making parts. I wanted to be able to overnight them and get back to work. Yes you can make them but you will cost yourself more than buying them and getting back to work. My new lathe doesn't do better or lesser work. It really is top notch like my last. I cant do any more in a day either. But it is nice to run and since I stand in front of it all day most days that's kind of nice. I'm not sure a new lathe is the answer unless something is wrong with your old one. You can replace bearings

Parts. Exactly.

 

[butchlambert]

Haha...all good. We all are set in our ways to certain extent. I thread fast to external shoulders and use my eyeball to retract. Internal: eyeball to a line on boring bar, lol. The DRO has many positives to them. You are never too old to learn new things Butch, lol

Remember I have a DRO on both of my Bridgeports and one lathe. I'm not against them, I just like the Trav A Dial for threading.

 

[butchlambert]

My o

Polish it and look at it. I just think they're the coolest lookin machine.

My old 10EE.


It had taper, ELSR, collet closer, 3 jaw, 4 jaw, face plate, Jacobs collet chuck, steady, and the hard to find tubes for backup if needed.


A great machine, but the 20" between centers sure puts limits on you. The headstock is way to long to chamber. The ELSR is a way to thread at 2,000 rpm for production, but not suitable for 2-3 parts as the setup time ate up your savings on onseys and twoses.

 

[butchlambert]

I work on the other end also. Using a DRO and threading away, you can insure every thread start is within .0001". Thread any speed your heart desires. VFD and ELS (electronic lead screw) makes it a pleasure to thread anything.

I'm kinda confused. Why would I need a DRO to start my threading and what does your .0001" do for you. I doubt anybody here would gain a thing threading at faster than 300rpm doing smith work. Only reason in my mind to thread faster would be a production run on a great amount of parts-CNC time, not on a gunsmith lathe.

 

[hoz53]

Parts. Exactly.

being able to get parts was the #1 reason i bought a grizzly and a PM but i think that may have backfired lately as I have heard some waiting a year to get parts for them. To be fair l havent called either company to find out what is available but its something to consider.