Is Neo Lube Better than Imperial Dry Neck Lube

[Timon]

I’ve been using Imperial Dry Neck Lube for a good while now, but have been reading a good bit about the Neo Lube product and was wondering if it is better than the other? I can see that as the Neo Lube is a liquid that dries, you might get a more even distribution of the product on the necks, over the powder. I realize that they are both graphite, but does the Neolube do a better job? I was wondering if anyone has actually used both and compared them as they translate into results on paper?

 

[Longtrain]

I recently started using Neolube #2, just after priming, I’ll wipe the inside of the neck with a Q-tip dunked in NL#2. What I found out is that my SD’s have dropped significantly, they are below 5 for the most part. My ammo is very accurate and does NL#2 help? I don’t think it hurt.

 

[Dave M.]

Aren’t both Neolube and Lock-eeze a colloidal graphite in an isopropyl alcohol solution?? I’ve never thought about using anything like this inside of brass necks. It would make for an interesting test.
Dave

 

[newbieshooter]

other neolube references

I use neolube on the inside of necks on new brass - aids in seating bullets for FF etc....

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Of all the lubes I have tested in a neck neolube was the best at the reloading bench. It reduced seating force the most and consistency was the best. But everything I ever used it in shot terrible. Now, everything I tested it in was already tuned and I just tried the lube. So maybe you could tune around it. But it ruined the accuracy in anything I tried it in. The redding powder, did not hurt accuracy. It just didnt improve it.

 

[Timon]

I recently started using Neolube #2, just after priming, I’ll wipe the inside of the neck with a Q-tip dunked in NL#2. What I found out is that my SD’s have dropped significantly, they are below 5 for the most part. My ammo is very accurate and does NL#2 help? I don’t think it hurt.

Thank you for the information!

 

[Timon]

other neolube references

I use neolube on the inside of necks on new brass - aids in seating bullets for FF etc....

Great video’s, spot on! Thank you so much!!

 

[Timon]

Of all the lubes I have tested in a neck neolube was the best at the reloading bench. It reduced seating force the most and consistency was the best. But everything I ever used it in shot terrible. Now, everything I tested it in was already tuned and I just tried the lube. So maybe you could tune around it. But it ruined the accuracy in anything I tried it in. The redding powder, did not hurt accuracy. It just didnt improve it.

Thank you so much for your reply and the information. I’m going to order a bottle and test it out to see how it does. Guess it could go either way based on your results, but I shall see how my tests go.

 

[Timon]

Aren’t both Neolube and Lock-eeze a colloidal graphite in an isopropyl alcohol solution?? I’ve never thought about using anything like this inside of brass necks. It would make for an interesting test.
Dave

Dave, that is a good question. I have Lock Eze on the bench now. I think that I will go take a further look at it.

 

[Timon]

Aren’t both Neolube and Lock-eeze a colloidal graphite in an isopropyl alcohol solution?? I’ve never thought about using anything like this inside of brass necks. It would make for an interesting test.
Dave

Dave, I’m not a chemical engineer, for sure, but at their core, both products are simply graphite in a carrier solution. From what I am reading the carrier solution might be slightly different between the two, but I don’t know if that would make any difference in the end or not. I also do not know if there is a difference in the concentration of graphite between the two products. Perhaps someone with a bit more knowledge in this area might offer some input if there is any difference between the two. I’m really interested as I have two almost new containers of Lock-Ease on my bench and a thing of NeoLube will cost me around $35.

 

[Hoot]

Aren’t both Neolube and Lock-eeze a colloidal graphite in an isopropyl alcohol solution?? I’ve never thought about using anything like this inside of brass necks. It would make for an interesting test.
Dave

Not at all. I know because I just bought a bottle of each. First I bought the Lock-ease because it was cheaper. I took a shiny, degreased brass case. Shook up the Lock-ease real well and dipped a qtip in it. Ran a line of it down the case and nothing of any consequence left behind. Then I bought a bottle of Neo Lube 2. Repeated the same experiment and it looked like I ran a sharpie down the case. Lots left behind. I will save the Lock-ease for a final patch through cleaned bores because I've seen that recommended by others.

Hoot

 

[Timon]

Not at all. I know because I just bought a bottle of each. First I bought the Lock-ease because it was cheaper. I took a shiny, degreased brass case. Shook up the Lock-ease real well and dipped a qtip in it. Ran a line of it down the case and nothing of any consequence left behind. Then I bought a bottle of Neo Lube 2. Repeated the same experiment and it looked like I ran a sharpie down the case. Lots left behind. I will save the Lock-ease for a final patch through cleaned bores because I've seen that recommended by others.

Hoot

Thanks!

 

[PatMiles]

I mix this moly with 90% alcohol into a thin slurry and paint the inside of the necks with a Q-tip. Alcohol evaporates quickly leaving a coating of moly which makes bullet seating a very slick effort.

 

[Dave M.]

Dave, I’m not a chemical engineer, for sure, but at their core, both products are simply graphite in a carrier solution. From what I am reading the carrier solution might be slightly different between the two, but I don’t know if that would make any difference in the end or not. I also do not know if there is a difference in the concentration of graphite between the two products. Perhaps someone with a bit more knowledge in this area might offer some input if there is any difference between the two. I’m really interested as I have two almost new containers of Lock-Ease on my bench and a thing of NeoLube will cost me around $35.

I use lock eeze as a final step after cleaning and it seems to help with the first shot after cleaning in getting it to be within the same zero.

 

[Webster]

Dave, I’m not a chemical engineer, for sure, but at their core, both products are simply graphite in a carrier solution. From what I am reading the carrier solution might be slightly different between the two, but I don’t know if that would make any difference in the end or not. I also do not know if there is a difference in the concentration of graphite between the two products. Perhaps someone with a bit more knowledge in this area might offer some input if there is any difference between the two. I’m really interested as I have two almost new containers of Lock-Ease on my bench and a thing of NeoLube will cost me around $35.

I use a low viscosity petroleum oil. $8 a quart. All the specialty concoctions are made to generate money. I think it was the Lee lube I tried years ago. I think it uses water as a carrier. I don't want water in my dies. I put some on a piece of cardboard on my bench, it hardened like a rock.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

The easiest way to lube necks is the moly neck lube kit from 21st century. It has pure moly in it and gives very consistent neck tension

 

[Timon]

The easiest way to lube necks is the moly neck lube kit from 21st century. It has pure moly in it and gives very consistent neck tension

I saw their product the other day and was wondering, if the use of the ceramic balls, might give a more more consistent coverage than just dipping the neck into the dry graphite product. I emailed Pete at 21st Century to get a little more info on their product.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I saw their product the other day and was wondering, if the use of the ceramic balls, might give a more more consistent coverage than just dipping the neck into the dry graphite product. I emailed Pete at 21st Century to get a little more info on their product.

Yes it applies it very well like the graphite lube kits. Way more consistent than just dipping it or applying with a q-tip

 

[LVLAaron]

Neolube is the business. It's an additional step/pain to deal with but it makes seating smooth like butter and my SDs are unbelievable.

I apply it before I use a mandrel to size the neck (no primer in the case) If nothing else it completely eliminated all brass galling on my mandrels.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Neolube is the business. It's an additional step/pain to deal with but it makes seating smooth like butter and my SDs are unbelievable.

I apply it before I use a mandrel to size the neck (no primer in the case) If nothing else it completely eliminated all brass galling on my mandrels.

You should try the 21st century moly kit. Youll be pleasantly surprised