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What I have Recently Learned About Chambering

Alex Wheeler said:
If you loosen the outboard spider and the barrel moves you were not holding it stress free. You were bending it. Lots of ways to hold one. Just think it through
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if you loosen the outboard spider and it moves, gravity could be pulling it down because you had moved it to align in front of the gimble
 
Alex Wheeler said:
A couple tenths at most. Any more and the setup is weak and or you were bending it.
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I must be missing something, I’ve def had to move the outboard more than a couple tenths to get my throat lined perpendicular and concentric with my gimble point.

Let say you have to move your throat .0005, 1/2 inch from the gimble (rough numbers). the amount of movement at 24 inches away on the outboard is .024 , an order magnitude than you’re suggesting.

Maybe we’re talking about diff things?
 
gunsandgunsmithing said:
No, 3 jaw yes but I've never seen an adjust true 6 jaw. fwiw. Might exist, though.
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Very common. I own one and use it often. Very useful for harder to hold material or where you want to use lower holding pressure so as to not distort the part. The biggest downside is the more limited minimum diameter compared to a 3 jaw, the 6 will not clamp as small of diameter material as a 3.
 
dnellans said:
I must be missing something, I’ve def had to move the outboard more than a couple tenths to get my throat lined perpendicular and concentric with my gimble point.

Let say you have to move your throat .0005, 1/2 inch from the gimble (rough numbers). the amount of movement at 24 inches away on the outboard is .024 , an order magnitude than you’re suggesting.

Maybe we’re talking about diff things?
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If you loosen the spider on the left and stuff moves on the right you were forcing it. That's all I'm saying.
 
WSnyder said:
Very common. I own one and use it often. Very useful for harder to hold material or where you want to use lower holding pressure so as to not distort the part. The biggest downside is the more limited minimum diameter compared to a 3 jaw, the 6 will not clamp as small of diameter material as a 3.
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6 jaw adjust true or just a 6 jaw independent chuck? Just googled it..they do make them. I've never seen one.
 
WSnyder said:
Ah, I am guilty of mis-reading what you said :) Mine is a adjust/set-tru!
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No, looks like you're right and I'm wrong. I've just never seen a 6 jaw set Tru chuck, that I can recall. I have a couple of 3 jaw bison set Tru chucks. They work great. My assumption only is that a 6 jaw would give more holding but I'm still trying to get my head around why else they make them in a 6 jaw. Help me.
 
gunsandgunsmithing said:
No, looks like you're right and I'm wrong. I've just never seen a 6 jaw set Tru chuck, that I can recall. I have a couple of 3 jaw bison set Tru chucks. They work great. My assumption only is that a 6 jaw would give more holding but I'm still trying to get my head around why else they make them in a 6 jaw. Help me.
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I use mine all the time for boring or reaming thin wall bushings and things like that. Like I said above and what Walt said, thin wall tubing, hard to hold parts and parts that you might want more holding power but want to minimize distortion. I've used it to chamber with a copper wire ring and it's fine there, no different than a 3 jaw set-tru. The rimfire smith that owned the lathe prior to me used a 6 jaw chuck as his chambering chuck. He probably used it in the making of some of the actions he made at the time too. He was a very successful smith.
 
WSnyder said:
I use mine all the time for boring or reaming thin wall bushings and things like that. Like I said above and what Walt said, thin wall tubing, hard to hold parts and parts that you might want more holding power but want to minimize distortion. I've used it to chamber with a copper wire ring and it's fine there, no different than a 3 jaw set-tru. The rimfire smith that owned the lathe prior to me used a 6 jaw chuck as his chambering chuck. He probably used it in the making of some of the actions he made at the time too. He was a very successful smith.
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Just for clarity..I'm referring to a 6 jaw SET TRU type of chuck. I'm aware of 6 jaw independents. Are we talking about the same thing?
 
The use of soft jaws are very useful for hard to hold parts or for more surface area on part. Repeatable and no jaw marks are benefits as well. Takes some time to cut correctly. Very handy in certain situations.
 
WSnyder said:
Yes, mine is a set-tru (all jaws move together when you turn the T-handle) not an independent jaw.

This is the small one on the 13” Rockwell.

Bison

www.bison-america.com www.bison-america.com
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I've seen them and I like the idea of them but knew they were pricy and uncommon over here. Thought I'd have a closer look at prices just to see how much I am dreaming. Yeahhhhhh $1800US for a 6" without a back plate isn't going to happen! Maybe I'll get lucky and stumble on a used one at the rite price
 
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