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What I have Recently Learned About Chambering

I have to say all this looks like over kill to me. I've chambered over 7,000 barrels the last 13 years and all I used was a Haas 1/8 HP pump and reservoir. I have a tray to catch chips directly under the barrel. It acts like a settling pond. The drain for it runs over two magnets. Then the oil has to traverse a 18" layer of swarf at the end of my bed. Again a settling pond. Where upon it goes into another tray with one outlet and a magnet. Do I get some transfer to the storage tank? Yes but just enough to discolor the oil.
Now rig up an air line to blow all the oil out. Here's a pic of my setup. I have a foot valve to turn it on and off. Old pic BTW I don't use the tailstock for much of anything any longer.

Haas TL-1.JPG
 
I have to say all this looks like over kill to me. I've chambered over 7,000 barrels the last 13 years and all I used was a Haas 1/8 HP pump and reservoir.

Wow that's an average of 2 barrels per day if your talking 5 day work week. $100 per chamber job, $700,000. How you find that many customers?
 
It adds up when you get barrels in 125 at a time. I did all of Accuracy Internationals barrels for 3 three year plus some large OEM contracts and a few other large jobs.
AI had a US builder doing there barrels, that’s pretty cool.
 
Prefits are easy.. but timing the barrel isn't possible if you don't have the action in hand.
You don't really have to have the action but you do need the old bbl and a ring that will thread up to the shoulder on the tenon. Run the ring up to the shoulder, tranfer a mark onto the ring that lines up with the existing engraving. Then, do the same on the new bbl. The engraving goes where the mark on the ring is. Make sense? This doesn't time where the thread starts, per se but it's the only reason I've ever had to time a bbl relative to the one that came off, and it works for that.
 
You don't really have to have the action but you do need the old bbl and a ring that will thread up to the shoulder on the tenon. Run the ring up to the shoulder, tranfer a mark onto the ring that lines up with the existing engraving. Then, do the same on the new bbl. The engraving goes where the mark on the ring is. Make sense? This doesn't time where the thread starts, per se but it's the only reason I've ever had to time a bbl relative to the one that came off, and it works for that.

Yeah. I've seen that done. Gordy has one in his class... Basically a clone of an individual action, so he can cut barrels for a customer without them sending the action to him.
 
Yeah. I've seen that done. Gordy has one in his class... Basically a clone of an individual action, so he can cut barrels for a customer without them sending the action to him.
Mine's like that too, bigger and heavier than it has to be but it works. About 1.500 od and about 8 in long. I threaded it to 1-1/16-18 to a class 2b max. It serves as a ring gage for most any barrel. I've used it enough to have a good feel for if a bbl is tighter or looser than it should be. Just easier than wires or a thread mic but those two things are indispensable.
 
I've been using one of these on-demand sprayer pumps. Just put a valve on the output to control the flow. Easy button.

I was thinking about that... Seems like it's more in line with the volume and pressure we're dealing with on a manual machine... The interesting thing about that type of pump (same as an RV water pump) is they only run as much and as fast as they need to.
 
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I've been using one of these on-demand sprayer pumps. Just put a valve on the output to control the flow. Easy button.
How long have you been using that pump. I'd be concerned that oil might eat up the diaphragm in short order, but maybe not. Rebuild kit is pretty cheap and easy, if it lasts for a while
 
I've been using it for a couple of years with no problems. From the web site:
  • Santoprene™ diaphragm and patented DXS-3® valves made with chemical-resistant Viton® for faster priming, better performance and longer life
It is 12v so you need a power supply or I just use a battery and charge it once in a while.
 
I have to say all this looks like over kill to me. I've chambered over 7,000 barrels the last 13 years and all I used was a Haas 1/8 HP pump and reservoir. I have a tray to catch chips directly under the barrel. It acts like a settling pond. The drain for it runs over two magnets. Then the oil has to traverse a 18" layer of swarf at the end of my bed. Again a settling pond. Where upon it goes into another tray with one outlet and a magnet. Do I get some transfer to the storage tank? Yes but just enough to discolor the oil.
Now rig up an air line to blow all the oil out. Here's a pic of my setup. I have a foot valve to turn it on and off. Old pic BTW I don't use the tailstock for much of anything any longer.

View attachment 1358717
Nice set up Dave and that is alot of barrels.
 
I was thinking about that... Seems like it's more in line with the volume and pressure we're dealing with on a manual machine... The interesting thing about that type of pump (same as an RV water pump) is they only run as much and as fast as they need to.

I use a (similar, but 120v) Shurflo pump. 3.3 gpm, 45 psi
Santoprene valves also as needed for resistance to oils/solvents.

The thought of 100-150 psi scared the shiznit out of me, where the end of the supply to the muzzle isn't hard-plumbed. I know some actually D&T the muzzle end for NPT fittings- and that's a safer bet IMO when using high pressure pumps.

The trade-off comes with volume, esp when using sulfur cutting oil and not synthetic coolant/lube due to it's much greater viscosity. A high-pressure system will be more able to clear the chips without needing to shut down the spindle and back out the reamer, esp if the reamers are cut with flushing grooves. With the lower pressure system, I still need to shut down frequently, back out the reamer to let the flush clear the chips, but it's only a few seconds and it's a trade-off I'm fine with.

Plumbed with bypass hoses/valves it's easier to regulate the flow nice and steady rather than having it pulsing on/off with the pressure switch on the pump. Modified Grizzly coolant sump (the pump just serves still as a withdrawal tube for the oil to the Shurflo pump).

You'll find that high flow volume is nice- until you try to get all that volume gravity fed back to the sump. Again, the viscosity of cutting oil isn't a friend here- my 3/4" return gets the job done, but barely. If I crank the flow up a bit more than I need it overflows the catch pan. 1" return line would be better, but 1" hose is tougher to wrangle around/not user friendly for a system that gets removed when the flush system is not in use.

2xTxuBRh.jpg
 

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