Thanks, I was searching for something like this.Here’s a start!BR primers vs Match primers vs Regular primers
So, what's the difference between these three primers in small rifle. I read that the only difference is that the manufacturer slows down production for the match and BR primers to better ensure better consistency and conformity.forum.accurateshooter.com
That's exactly what I tested this evening to get the final piece of the puzzle, or so I thought, on loads for my 6PPC. As it turns out, the primer I did all my powder and seating depth tests ended up being about the best, which was the BR4's. CCI 450's did fairly well also. The happy surprise was how well the Unis Ginex primers did. Fed205M, Rem 7 1/2, and WSR all made blobs.The target will tell you which primer it likes best.
The 400's are thinner (which results in more flow so they look softer) at 0.020" thick. Both the BR 4 and the 450's are thicker at 0.025" thick. The BR 4 primer are made by folks with more experience and they should be more consistent. The 400's are best used in lower pressure rounds similar to the Remington 6 1/2 primer. But as mentioned, try them and see what shoots best.400's, 450's, br4's........
I can attest to this fact. My 223 Remington 100 meter match loads, a mid load, flatten a bit, no firing pin cratering or other pressure signs.Cci 400 are very soft and will flatten even at mid range loads...
this may not be surprising, since your load development was done with them, and the other primers may have moved you slightly out of tune?As it turns out, the primer I did all my powder and seating depth tests ended up being about the best
What's the best way to check for priming compound?The 400's are thinner (which results in more flow so they look softer) at 0.020" thick. Both the BR 4 and the 450's are thicker at 0.025" thick. The BR 4 primer are made by folks with more experience and they should be more consistent. The 400's are best used in lower pressure rounds similar to the Remington 6 1/2 primer. But as mentioned, try them and see what shoots best.
The 450's are a magnum primer and I often shoot them against my Remington 7 1/2's which are called a Benchrest primer or a magnum primer. Normally there is little difference in velocity. But one time the 450's showed over 100 fps higher velocity vs the Rem. That is why it is always smart to work you load up when you change anything.
When I was shooting the deer shown in my avatar I was using my 25-06. I had a round that didn't fire, so I ejected it and shot the next round. Brought it home and broke it down. It was primed with a CCI 200 primer. Nice hard strike by the firing pin. So I removed the primer and inspected it. No priming compound in it. Maybe it was made by less experienced operators? Since then, I check all my hunting primers for presence of priming compound before I prime my brass.
Yes it does look that way. 2 of the other 5 tested shot just as well, and the tune was built at 90* and the testing was done yesterday at 76*, so I would expect even the tuned load to fall off a little although it still shot well.this may not be surprising, since your load development was done with them, and the other primers may have moved you slightly out of tune?
it might be you are only 1/3 of the way done with the comparison. a scary thought with today's component prices.
I just lay them out anvil side up. Look for the color of the compound. I wish I had taken a picture of the one with none. You can see the yellow material with the priming compound underneath on these. The one that wasn't filled, had neither. Just could see the underside of the dome.What's the best way to check for priming compound?
I'll start checking mine now since I had the misfire I think I'll pull the bullet de-prime and check that primer. Thanks for the tip!I just lay them out anvil side up. Look for the color of the compound. I wish I had taken a picture of the one with none. You can see the yellow material with the priming compound underneath on these. The one that wasn't filled, had neither. Just could see the underside of the dome.
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might not to have to deprime if you have a teslong scope. remove mirror and have a look down the flash hole?I think I'll pull the bullet de-prime and check that primer.