Quick question for wet moly users
- Thread starter Adam in WI
- Start date
Yes you could and many people do I just use this
I did actually. That's why I asked about the rotary tumbler. My vibratory isn't near as large as yours.
urbanrifleman
Site $$ Sponsor
As long as you use a small container to put the bullets in and seal it up real good it doesn't matter how small the tumbler is in fact a small tumbler works just fine
Easy enough I guess. A few observations that could use some feedback... Two hours in the rotary wasn't enough @338 dude , but I washed with soapy water, not mineral spirits. I also may have tried to do too many at once. I had about 150 total in there. I put them back in for another 4 hours. After that they looked like you see now. I did rinse them and then dry for 20 minutes at 130 degrees. I did the sock polish trick, but even still they didn't look frosty beforehand. I was able to rub the moly off of the base of one bullet by rubbing it somewhat aggressively against my jeans.
I am going to give this a try in the vibratory as well. I've no reason for this other than my gut tells me this process needs a little more agitation.
You must swish the bullets inAcetone to remove all the oils in the bullet forming process and use the hottest water available in the tumbler
holstil
Silver $$ Contributor
I’m gonna give tungsten disulfide a go with the wet method.
I bought some moly coated bullets awhile back that shoot well and seat like a champ.
My friend was shooting screamers at 600yds with his dashers that had way more rounds on them than I thought was possible to do so. He swears by it.
I bought some moly coated bullets awhile back that shoot well and seat like a champ.
My friend was shooting screamers at 600yds with his dashers that had way more rounds on them than I thought was possible to do so. He swears by it.
I use the Lyman method, which doesn't need water, and I coat the plastic tipped bullets without a problem. The tip will discolor only slightly, you will easily see what color it was before.
Moly Coat with the Lyman method.
The key to dry tumbling with moly is that the internal surfaces must be metal, so the tumbler needs a metal insert. Trying to dry tumble moly in a regular tumbler will discourage you enough to quit trying to get it right.
Moly Coat with the Lyman method.
The key to dry tumbling with moly is that the internal surfaces must be metal, so the tumbler needs a metal insert. Trying to dry tumble moly in a regular tumbler will discourage you enough to quit trying to get it right.
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