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Quick question for wet moly users

Adam in WI

Practically lives here
Silver $$ Contributor
I'm going to give the wet moly method a try soon. Have you that have tried it used it to coat plastic tip bullets, or ones with large hollow points like the 52 grain Speer? Are there any pitfalls in the method when bullets with these features are attempted? Like moisture getting in the nose cavity behind the plastic tip and staying causing oxidation or corrosion?
 
No.

Plastic tipped bullets shake dry in a few seconds. Big hollow points you keep shaking until the tips a clear then let them sit for several days.

Here is my article with video

 
Never done plastic tip bullets, but when using the wet method on hollow point bullets I dry my bullets with a heat gun. when doing this the moisture in the hollow point expands to a gas creates a bubble and then burst,image.jpg it keeps the hollow point clear which is another benefit of drying your bullets this way
 
Never done plastic tip bullets, but when using the wet method on hollow point bullets I dry my bullets with a heat gun. when doing this the moisture in the hollow point expands to a gas creates a bubble and then burst,View attachment 1343934 it keeps the hollow point clear which is another benefit of drying your bullets this way

Guldamn guy, those look sexy. Lol
 
Not to hijack this thread but where do you guys buy your wet moly stuff from? Being an Eastern varmint shooter I got a bunch of moly bullets many years ago and now I'm running low and find factory stuff unavailable.
 
Does this aide in the prevention of cold welding? Of do you still lubricate necks before mandrel or seating?
 
Does this aide in the prevention of cold welding? Of do you still lubricate necks before mandrel or seating?
Yeah should absolutely you would have a layer of a high pressure lubricant between the copper and brass the only time I lubricate my neck is when using an expanding mandrel
 

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