Recommend a level bubble

[338 dude]

What’s a decent level to put on a pic rail or scope tube.

Thanks!

Accuracy first

 

[Ranger007]

For me it’s the Flatline Ops Articulating models. They are rock solid. I have had several and will buy more when I have a new scope needing a level. I’m sure some others would choose differently.

Thank you very much. I am going to check them out.

 

[Tokay444]

I don’t like anything that moves, or has pivots or hinges that could be a potential failure point.

 

[Straightshooter1]

Hmmmm??? For me, it doesn't matter how precise a level bubble itself might be that's attached to my scope since I tune it to a plum line. That is, I'll line up my scopes vertical reticle line to a plum line and set the level so that the bubble indicates as dead level. If I have to remove the scope and reattach it, the level remain in alignment with the reticle. At the same time I'll also check the level I use on the scope base in the same way to see how it relates to the reticle.

Am I missing something?

 

[shoobe01]

I do prefer scope mounted levels for the ability to align it. Pic rail ones are what they are.

Bad levels can also be inconsistent in how they react. Imperfect tubes can cause the bubble to stick and not show the current position, or the rate of movement can be inconsistent across the range, making it hard to adjust even if possible.

If by chance you use compasses a lot, similar to a badly dampened compass; almost any of them can be used, will point north or you can dial in the inaccuracy. But MAN is it hard and slow to use if the dampening is too slow, or too fast.

 

[TylerFromMS]

Another vote for the MK Machining aluminum ones. Solid, easy to see, mounts to rail.

 

[hogpatrol]

Another vote for the Flatline Ops Sniper series. Can be used two ways and easily adjusted in both positions.

 

[precision.riflecraft]

You can get them as cheap as $10-15, most likely junk. High end units fixed units around $80-100 or $120-160 for articulating levels from Flatline Ops. There are also electronic models that emit a tone when you’re level, don’t remember who makes the electronic ones.

I'm inclined to agree but I also have an interesting datapoint to offer. I own two Flatline Ops ACCU/Levels. Up here in Canada, with the cost of importation, they're not cheap. The 34mm version I bought last year cost CAD$280 with shipping. That's USD$221. I realize that knockoffs are design theft, but when I saw an imitation 30mm ACCU/Level on eBay for CAD$14 shipped, I just had to try it. I ordered several just in case I liked it, and the quality is amazing. Extremely tight tolerances, even after being functioned hundreds of times. I suspected it was just water in the vial (they have to cut corners right?), so I threw it in the freezer, expecting it to freeze, expand and rupture. Nope. I'm amazed by this thing. Sometimes you get a lot more than you pay for.

 

[Bojo]

U.S. Optics non pivoting level is the one I use. It mounts on the pic rail underneath the scope. It has a protective ca that screws on/off and screws onto the opposite side for storage while in use. With the low mounting point it is very easy to check and adjust for level without breaking cheek weld.

 

[moondog]

U.S. Optics non pivoting level is the one I use. It mounts on the pic rail underneath the scope. It has a protective ca that screws on/off and screws onto the opposite side for storage while in use. With the low mounting point it is very easy to check and adjust for level without breaking cheek weld.

Just picked up 2 of these from a member here. Wish I got a couple more. Very nice

 

[precision.riflecraft]

What’s a decent level to put on a pic rail or scope tube.

Thanks!

Here's a segment from a video I made about cant error. It discusses several bubble levels:

 

[Tokay444]

Hmmmm??? For me, it doesn't matter how precise a level bubble itself might be that's attached to my scope since I tune it to a plum line. That is, I'll line up my scopes vertical reticle line to a plum line and set the level so that the bubble indicates as dead level. If I have to remove the scope and reattach it, the level remain in alignment with the reticle. At the same time I'll also check the level I use on the scope base in the same way to see how it relates to the reticle.

Am I missing something?

Yes. Is plumb on the level still plumb as the rifle aims up, or down? If the inside of the tube isn’t a perfect cylinder, your bubble will lie to you as the rifle tilts fore and aft.

 

[Straightshooter1]

Yes. Is plumb on the level still plumb as the rifle aims up, or down? If the inside of the tube isn’t a perfect cylinder, your bubble will lie to you as the rifle tilts fore and aft.

I believe the answer is yes, but that's really on a narrow range of tilt for me. How much tilt does it take to result in significant change in the plumb to effect long range target shooting results? I'm sure it will depend on how imperfect the cylinder is, but is it such a common problem?

 

[Tokay444]

File it under, things you didn’t know you needed to know until you needed to know.

 

[hillbill]

I use Holland
Tried the Accuracy 1st but didn't like it
tried USO rail mounted but it's too hard to see while you are in the scope
USO scope mounted is good
the Holland mounted forward of the side focus can be easily seen from behind the scope, smooth edges, bright and good even in low light.

 

[Delfuego]

The US Optics rail-mount works great. Been using them for years...

 

[1911nut]

Here's a segment from a video I made about cant error. It discusses several bubble levels:

That is a great visual for cant error!

Thank you!

 

[rijndael]

The US Optics rail-mount works great. Been using them for years...

I had a few of their folding ones, from a while back, and they didn't agree with each other. If they had a calibration screw to adjust the tilt a hair, it'd be helpful

 

[BoydAllen]

The basic way to check a level is to find a flat surface that is as long as the level and note where he bubble is, then swap the level end for end and see if it reads the same. On a rail mount you could secure the rifle on in a barrel vise so that the rail mounted level reads perfectly level and then switch the level so that it is on the other side and see if the reading is the same. For target practice I take a torpedo level and pen when posting a target. After I put the frame in its holder, I draw a level line on the backer and align the top of the target to it. This gives me an excellent reference that I can easily check without changing my position. For short range benchrest, where the most that scopes are usually adjusted is for differences in elevation, even though the target may not be perfect, as long as you are aligned to it throughout a given match, I believe that you are GTG. I cannot speak for long range, but for benchrest, I think that using the frame as a reference when setting up would probably be fine, given that sighters are allowed to fine tune the scope settings. Looking at videos of expert shooters running their groups, I seriously doubt that they would check alignment during their run, but rather would depend on the flat forend and matching bag to maintain that alignment.

 

[Dos XX]

Clear View Levels

www.kenfarrell.com