You're reading the shadow. LOL.3335. Guilty as charged.
I used starrett 120 dial calipers for a lot of years. Still have my 1st set which i believe i got new in 1975. I never trusted any digitals but i knew many profesional machinists did. I finally got tired of the starretts tendency for the gear train to jump a tooth and the needle would be at 25 with the jaws closed so i sprang for a pair of Mitutoyo digital ISO coolant proof models. I havent looked back. They have been at least as accurate as the starretts with never any adding mistakes ect — i find ordering batteries online mabie 8 or10 to a card works out cheaper and then i have them.— i now have to use cheap reader glasses to read with after my cataract surgery and i can see the dials okay with them- mabie they would work for you.I have 3 of the digital calipers scattered around, the dial caliper is collecting dust. My eyes aren't what they used to be.
2 weeks ago I had to go to no less than 5 different stores before I found 357 batteries. If you are going digital, consider stocking 4 or so batteries before they disappear.
I wish there was a dial caliper of useable reloading size with a wheel twice as large.
Since a caliper is good for +/-.002”, trying to add a 4th decimal is completely moot.The "3." Was a typo.
However, look at the angle of the dial teeth in the photo. That's not truly 0.334, more like 0.3343 because of the angle of view, a.k.a. parallax.
@papajoe222, when you close the jaws, make sure the needle is on zero.
LOL. Limits of accuracy. (or, in this case the quality of the gearing mechanisms)Since a caliper is good for +/-.002”, trying to add a 4th decimal is completely moot.
“Mils” as in millionths? .000004”LOL. Limits of accuracy. (or, in this case the quality of the gearing mechanisms)
I used to be able to *see* 4 mils difference. My wife still can.
My calibrations expired long ago, and not arguing thermal coefficients, but if a caliper didn't read the shop gauge blocks correctly, it was retired. Hence, for intents and purposes, on a quality instrument, you can read and assign 0.000x because it's indicative of which side of the mark and how much. Built many, many machines that way.
Sure, when it really mattered, we would pull out the micrometers.
Uh, no. If I say to an old machinist, "take it down 1 mil," he would know that I mean one thousandth.“Mils” as in millionths? .000004”
Not really mixing the languages or terminology, more "old skool" vs "new school". When casually discussing, old habits come through, hence "mils".I call a thousandth a thou, a ten thousandth a tenth, and one hundred thousandths ten millionths. My machines only resolve to the 10 millionths, so I don’t really worry about anything past that.
I can also speak metric, but I don’t mix the languages.
I would call your tenths 100 thou, which is 3 orders of magnitude from what I refer to as a tenth. .0001 vs .100Not really mixing the languages or terminology, more "old skool" vs "new school". When casually discussing, old habits come through, hence "mils".
There are two orders of magnitude between my "tenths" and yours, though I never heard deci [E 10(-2)] being used.
Thanks, my math was off....I would call your tenths 100 thou, which is 3 orders of magnitude from what I refer to as a tenth. .0001 vs .100