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Tikka T3 25-06

Greetings trigger men,and women). My younger brother wants to sell his Tikka T3 25-06,probably less than 20 rounds through it) to me and I'm wondering if any of you have had good luck loading the lighter,75 - 87 grain) bullets for this rifle? I'm not interested in using it for big game - I'm interested in using it on coyotes and such . . . but I want a very accurate round that I can trust out past 400 yards. The 25-06 interests me because it lists some incredible velocities with those lighter rounds. Yes, I know, velocity doesn't matter if the bullet doesn't hit where you're aiming it . . . so please let me know and share your load data if you will.

Thank you!
-Scott
 
My .25-06 is a Rem SPS stainless, 24 inch, 10 twist. Am 4 or 5 grains lower than published powder loads - short/tight throat?? Don`t know what Tikka throating is like for this cartridge.

The barrel heats up so fast that I don`t shoot it on hot days. Three shots max on a cool day then set it aside and go on to another rifle until the barrel cools.

Most accurate light bullet load is the 90 Sierra hpbt, RX19, chronos at 3250. Consistently sub-moa at 200 metres,220 yds). Coyotes look like they have been hit with a hand grenade.

Rifle averages right on moa with the 75 VMax, RX19, 3330 fps.

The point of impact of the 75 VMax at 200 metres is 6 inches right of the 90 Sierra so I am sighted for the more accurate 90. May just be a peculiarity of this rifle.
 
Let me share with you a load that is the most popular 25-06 load at our gun club in upstate NY. It was developed by an old timer and I haven't been able to better it. Sierra 90gr bthp gameking, 56.5 gr. IMR 4831, CCI BR2 primer. Set the OAL to your rifle and you have accuracy that is amazing. My best groups are hole cutting 1/4" @ 100yds out of a Savage 112 26" factory barrel that was cryoed and the trigger changed. My associates have had great luck with the above load in Ruger, Remington, Savage, Hart, I have not heard of a bad range report yet. Woodchuck, coyote, deer, works great!
 
70g Sierra Blitzkings, RL17 (59g), Fed210m, Rem cases with OAL of 3.100 is an OCW load in my 25” PacNor barrel. Super fast, small groups and destructive.
 
12 year old thread and none of the early responders are even here any more. It's too bad they won't be able to take advantage of the information sharing.

The .25-06 cartridge is very flexible as long as you have the right twist rate for the bullets you choose to use. The freebore and throat can cause some testiness when it comes to load development for the larger range of bullet lengths. I've shot 75 gr. VMAX on occasion but I usually like the 85 gr. Nosler Ballistic Tips. A shorter freebore can be helpful with the lighter, shorter bullets.

Nowadays I split the difference and use a .25-06 Ackley Improved with a longer barrel, faster twist and the 131, 135 longer range bullets. For the short to intermediate range shots I carry the .250 Savage AI for coyote and varmints.
 
Unsure if it's normal for a 25-06, but I have a very temperamental 700LR in 25-06. The only loads that it really likes so far is the Speer 87 TNT HP with enough RL19 to get around 3550fps & the Sierra 100 FB spitzer with H4831SC at around 3300fps. It's a 26" barrel. Both bullets are seated to just touch the rifling.
 
Unsure if it's normal for a 25-06, but I have a very temperamental 700LR in 25-06. The only loads that it really likes so far is the Speer 87 TNT HP with enough RL19 to get around 3550fps & the Sierra 100 FB spitzer with H4831SC at around 3300fps. It's a 26" barrel. Both bullets are seated to just touch the rifling.
Maybe back the bullets away from the lands and let them blast through the leade on their way down the tube. I’ve personally never shot anything under 100gr in my 25-06, and my AI barrel is set up for the new long range offerings with a 1:7tw. All of my rounds have a decent jump and I’ve never needed to tune them. Seems they like to blow right through the jam. Both are well below MOA at 400yds from a very low budget Savage build.
 
I have a Tikka T3 in 25-06. I haven’t shot it much in a long time. Gun is very light and recoil is a little sharp. I have got to where I prefer heavier guns that adsorb the recoil more. My shoulder starts getting sore after 10 rounds or so on the 25-06 Tikka. I can shoot 30+ rounds with my heavy 300 Win Mag with no problem at all. As I shoot the Tikka the bullets climb up and to the right as the barrel heats up. Accuracy was not great with the Tikka. I reload for a friend’s Browning X-bolt in 25-06. He is getting 3/8” groups at 100yds with 100 grain Nosler BT bullets loaded with IMR 7828.
 
I have a Tikka T3 in 25-06. I haven’t shot it much in a long time. Gun is very light and recoil is a little sharp. I have got to where I prefer heavier guns that adsorb the recoil more. My shoulder starts getting sore after 10 rounds or so on the 25-06 Tikka. I can shoot 30+ rounds with my heavy 300 Win Mag with no problem at all. As I shoot the Tikka the bullets climb up and to the right as the barrel heats up. Accuracy was not great with the Tikka. I reload for a friend’s Browning X-bolt in 25-06. He is getting 3/8” groups at 100yds with 100 grain Nosler BT bullets loaded with IMR 7828.
So, what are you getting for accuracy with yours? You can always get a Protector thin sand bag to be between your shoulder and the rifle, that would help a lot in mitigating felt recoil. The T3 barrels are free floated so should not be making any contact with the stock. Have you checked your action screws for tightness? Have you checked your scope bases and rings for tightness? Have you experimented with different bullets and seating depths? All can noticeably affect accuracy. Good luck with yours. Oh, some have seen accuracy improvement by installing a Mountain Tactical aluminum bottom metal unit. I just got one for my T3 6.5x55 SM. It shoots about 1" now and I will be interested in seeing if that one change brings any improvement with my load and seating depth.
 
I have a Ruger VT 2506 and it absolutely loves 60 grains of h4350 and 75 grain Vmax just over 3800 feet per second and this load Shreds foxes .

Ps use this load with caution and work up to it
 
So, what are you getting for accuracy with yours? You can always get a Protector thin sand bag to be between your shoulder and the rifle, that would help a lot in mitigating felt recoil. The T3 barrels are free floated so should not be making any contact with the stock. Have you checked your action screws for tightness? Have you checked your scope bases and rings for tightness? Have you experimented with different bullets and seating depths? All can noticeably affect accuracy. Good luck with yours. Oh, some have seen accuracy improvement by installing a Mountain Tactical aluminum bottom metal unit. I just got one for my T3 6.5x55 SM. It shoots about 1" now and I will be interested in seeing if that one change brings any improvement with my load and seating depth.
It has been years since I shot it but I think accuracy was around 2-3 MOA. Problem with it was as I shot it the bullets kept hitting up and to the right every time as the barrel got warmed up. I changed the rings, bedded the action, torqued the action screws correctly, and double checked that the barrel wasn’t touching the stock. Not much change in accuracy at all with that. I am thinking it is just that light weight barrel moving as it heats up. I have considered changing out the barrel because I usually hear good things about Tikka rifles.
 
Maybe back the bullets away from the lands and let them blast through the leade on their way down the tube. I’ve personally never shot anything under 100gr in my 25-06, and my AI barrel is set up for the new long range offerings with a 1:7tw. All of my rounds have a decent jump and I’ve never needed to tune them. Seems they like to blow right through the jam. Both are well below MOA at 400yds from a very low budget Savage build.
A bit late responding. Thanks for the reply. Seeing as this is a necro thread on light bullets in 25-06, it's already been somewhat derailed, & there's not much happening here today...

The rifle seems to prefer no jump every time it's been tested so far. I've tried different OALs with what seemed to be promising loads with many suitable powders from the 4350s to 7828 & about everything in between. Most of the better powder results defied much fine tuning. Early on I swapped scopes, tightened screws to spec, fixed the binding mag box, installed an Ernie's trigger spring. Later testing swapped primers, tried premium '06 brass reformed (snug unturned & skim turned necks) & on & on. The results section in my loading notes is thicker than for rifles I've had 40 years.

FWIW, most loads ES & SD are reasonably low (under 30 & 20 respectively) & often single digits. Tried during break-in, factory 120 PSPCLs looked like a shotgun pattern... less than hunting accuracy much past 100 yds. & hardly the long range in the model designation. I've even checked the loose screw behind the trigger, letting someone else shoot it.

The barrel has plenty of stock clearance. The stock has an integral aluminum block, but was going to try bedding the recoil lug & back end of the barrel. There is light grey bedding material there already from the factory. It will still always shoot the 100 Sierra FBs (now discontinued) over H4831SC & the Speer 87 HPs (unavailable anywhere these days) over RL19 into an inch or less @100 yds. So... maybe bedding is yet another exercise in futility? Maybe this one needs a pressure point up front in the barrel channel? Plastic shims here & there are an inexpensive experiment for over the winter whilst burning up the remaining 100gr Sierras.

After first trying the 85/87 gr. weights, then the 100gr., moving upward in weight, RL22 & 23 are promising with 115 Ball.Tips, but not consistently. After the initial powder tests, my dwindling 23 is earmarked for other rifles that do shoot well, but will try a seating depth test series with the 115s & 22 someday soon...

After working with the rifle extensively, it's one of the most frustrating pieces I've owned. Like I said the rifle is awfully picky & I dont love it enough to spend much more time & $$ on it, let alone getting a gunsmith involved. Wearing an RR prefix, it sure isn't an early '90s Remington when they still had functioning QC.

When/if gun shows or gun shop inventory ever get back to normal around here I'll likely pass it along/trade it for a new project. Maybe someone else will have better luck or lesser expectations. Until then it's a non-priority project if I get a sudden urge or run out of other things to do.
 
Maybe this one needs a pressure point up front in the barrel channel? Plastic shims here & there are an inexpensive experiment for over the winter whilst burning up the remaining 100gr Sierras.
Try using PlayDoh for the pressure point up front. It’s easy to add and remove for testing purposes. My neighbor has a couple Pre-‘64 M70s with lighter barrels that need pressure up front to shoot well. It would make sense with a rifle from an era of poor QC, where the barrels may not be stress relieved, bored concentrically, or even straight...
 
Try using PlayDoh for the pressure point up front. It’s easy to add and remove for testing purposes. My neighbor has a couple Pre-‘64 M70s with lighter barrels that need pressure up front to shoot well. It would make sense with a rifle from an era of poor QC, where the barrels may not be stress relieved, bored concentrically, or even straight...
Or that the barrel channel wood has swollen some over time.
 
Try using PlayDoh for the pressure point up front. It’s easy to add and remove for testing purposes. My neighbor has a couple Pre-‘64 M70s with lighter barrels that need pressure up front to shoot well. It would make sense with a rifle from an era of poor QC, where the barrels may not be stress relieved, bored concentrically, or even straight...
Or that the barrel channel wood has swollen some over time.
Hi Greg. It's either a Hogue or B&C plastic stock... whichever the big green R was using in 2016. Lots of space all around.

SweaterDood, Was planning to use short strips of plastic sheet in varying thicknesses I have from another hobby laid on the bottom of the barrel channel. That way the optimal height to add in epoxy will be easy to reproduce later... or just leave it be with a few drops of thin glue. Play-Doh dries, shrinks & turns to powder after a while. My daughter made some cookies a while back... :D

Last time I did this, business card strips were used until a good height was reached. Then a blob of Acraglass was poured ahead of it & rifle reassembled. It worked out well. The card strips may still be there. Someone else owns it now.
 
Hi Greg. It's either a Hogue or B&C plastic stock... whichever the big green R was using in 2016. Lots of space all around.

SweaterDood, Was planning to use short strips of plastic sheet in varying thicknesses I have from another hobby laid on the bottom of the barrel channel. That way the optimal height to add in epoxy will be easy to reproduce later... or just leave it be with a few drops of thin glue. Play-Doh dries, shrinks & turns to powder after a while. My daughter made some cookies a while back... :D

Last time I did this, business card strips were used until a good height was reached. Then a blob of Acraglass was poured ahead of it & rifle reassembled. It worked out well. The card strips may still be there. Someone else owns it now.
Good luck with whatever you try.
 
Hi Greg. It's either a Hogue or B&C plastic stock... whichever the big green R was using in 2016. Lots of space all around.

SweaterDood, Was planning to use short strips of plastic sheet in varying thicknesses I have from another hobby laid on the bottom of the barrel channel. That way the optimal height to add in epoxy will be easy to reproduce later... or just leave it be with a few drops of thin glue. Play-Doh dries, shrinks & turns to powder after a while. My daughter made some cookies a while back... :D

Last time I did this, business card strips were used until a good height was reached. Then a blob of Acraglass was poured ahead of it & rifle reassembled. It worked out well. The card strips may still be there. Someone else owns it now.
The PlayDoh suggestion was for a temporary trial to see if adding a pressure point helps accuracy. Takes 10 seconds longer than removing and reinstalling your action. Also saves you grinding, if it doesn’t help with or degrades accuracy. You can also cut a section out and use the PlayDoh to act as a dam to add the epoxy and keep the height spec.
 
85gr nosler ballistic tips..
I can't recall the load off the top of my head but I'll have it written down but it was Norma brass and BR2's. Something tells me it was 49 or 51grs of varget.
1.5 inch 5 shot groups at 400yds off a bipod and a cushion thing to support the buttend.
Shot 100s of roe deer with that combo
 

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