I remember that- I am gonna look it over again. Thanks
LolPlenty. Probably a lots more. Alternate guns!![]()
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I remember that- I am gonna look it over again. Thanks
LolPlenty. Probably a lots more. Alternate guns!![]()
A spotting scope is like a rifle barrel, everyone of them is an individual. I went to scheels years ago and compared different scopes and same brand of spotting scopes. If you are able to do this you can find a scope that fits you.Not sure if you’ve read other similar threads where I talk about getting an old style green body Nikon ED spotting scope but they will do the job and save you some money as well.
I was out shooting with one of the guys on here a while back at 871 yards. I had my Nikon and he had the Swarovski ATX (I also owned the ATX in the past and have a lot of experience with that optic). The conditions got rough at times but my old Nikon ED could still resolve just as well as the Swaro at all times. There were holes that neither of us could find when mirage kicked up but there was never a hole that both scopes could not make out. Difference of course is that I paid about $500 for the old Japanese made Nikon glass.
I have the ED 60mm and the ED 78mm. I was using the 78mm that day and it has two eyepieces. Early in the morning when the mirage was low I used the 75x wide angle eyepiece. When mirage picked up with the sunshine, I put on the variable 25-56x. Both will resolve equally as well but the 75x is nice if the conditions are really good.I do remember those posts a little. What power is your Nikon ED—
Thanks for that LeddI have the ED 60mm and the ED 78mm. I was using the 78mm that day and it has two eyepieces. Early in the morning when the mirage was low I used the 75x wide angle eyepiece. When mirage picked up with the sunshine, I put on the variable 25-56x. Both will resolve equally as well but the 75x is nice if the conditions are really good.
Ive used the smaller 60mm scope to spot holes at 635 yards using the straight 40x eyepiece and it did phenomenally well. Crystal clear and zero issues finding the shots. Tho I will admit conditions were pretty good. I will take the 60mm with me next time to see how it does spotting holes at longer ranges.
Only drawback to these older Nikons is they don’t give you the real ultra wide field of view like you get in today’s modern high end spotters like the Swaro ATX and Meopta S2. For target shooting the narrower FOV is perfectly fine, but it’s not as nice when used for hunting and scanning hillsides for animals. As far as glass goes, these old Nikon ED spotters will still compete right up there on the same level with the best glass on the market despite being produced around 20 years ago.
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Thanks for that info.Some say "this isn't THE way, just A way." Well, purchasing a Shotmarker or SOLO is, in fact, THE way if you are actually serious about shooting. Plenty of people have built folding frames that work fine, they don't have to be built like the tanks some recommend. I'm sure they exist, but I've yet to meet anyone that's used both that will now consider that target cameras and e-targets belong in the same conversation. It's like comparing oranges to pineapples. I suppose if you are a VERY low volume shooter some sort of camera or super optic might suffice, but if you want to shoot a significant number of shots, e-target is the only way to go.
Scott Young
sounds Like you’re fortunate— I belong to a range 10 miles from me though that goes to 1000 yards so I feel fortunate about that. Its not the big sky country here. Easy setup is important to me to. My spotter (cow) doesn’t have near resolution I thought it would have. Ill prob end up trying several of these things. ThanksI have a Caldwell 1 mile target camera system. Had it for a few years now but have never used it. My spotters have been able to get the job done for what I need and they are a lot easier to setup so the target camera has never left the bag. I finally found an awesome spot where I can shoot at the same target location from positions of 600, 1050, 1200, and 1700 yards. I may have to use the target camera at the longer ranges because that’s a really tall order asking any spotter to see holes at 1200 yards and beyond
The camera systems I’ve used provide the functionality to identify new hits, mark groups, and measure their size. I know that the electronic systems also provide terminal ballistics, do they offer more functions?Some say "this isn't THE way, just A way." Well, purchasing a Shotmarker or SOLO is, in fact, THE way if you are actually serious about shooting. Plenty of people have built folding frames that work fine, they don't have to be built like the tanks some recommend. I'm sure they exist, but I've yet to meet anyone that's used both that will now consider that target cameras and e-targets belong in the same conversation. It's like comparing oranges to pineapples. I suppose if you are a VERY low volume shooter some sort of camera or super optic might suffice, but if you want to shoot a significant number of shots, e-target is the only way to go.
Scott Young
i guess it comes down to personal preference. i think either would work for me.The camera systems I’ve used provide the functionality to identify new hits, mark groups, and measure their size. I know that the electronic systems also provide terminal ballistics, do they offer more functions?
The e-targets allow one to set up a target and shoot ALL day. Hundreds and hundreds of shots without having to go downrange to change target faces. If a camera will do that then I stand corrected. To be fair, in any discussion like this the volume of shooting one intends to do really needs to be known before an informed opinion can be shared.The camera systems I’ve used provide the functionality to identify new hits, mark groups, and measure their size. I know that the electronic systems also provide terminal ballistics, do they offer more functions?
thanksA shotMarker would be really nice but expensive. Look on YouTube for FPV cameras. You can build a nice target camera for less than $100.
Yup, did the same thing about 4 years ago. Used parts for FPV, invested about $50.00 for everything.. Good post.This topic was covered before. Here’s a link o building your own camera.
Building your own target cam
I had a couple people asking about building a target camera for the range so I figured I would try to post what I have for a setup and a parts list. To start off you will need a video camera. You can find these used on EBay for about $35.00 to $50.00. Be sure it includes battery and wires needed...forum.accurateshooter.com
I tried one of these FPV cameras. The one I tried has no way of zooming the image in closer. Had to place it 10” in front of the target making it useless. With the camcorder setup I’ll put the camera about 25’ and off to the side of the target then zoom in so the target fills the whole screen of the monitor. I tested my setup and got reception out to 1000 yards.A shotMarker would be really nice but expensive. Look on YouTube for FPV cameras. You can build a nice target camera for less than $100.
Except the time machine would be more expensive. But a “do over” might be worth it.I think the best way to see holes at 800-1000 yds is to build a Time Machine and go back to when you were 18 years old……..