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Rem 700 7mm rem mag, bolt stuck

A while back I picked up a rem 700 7mm rem mag, used. I just recently took it out to shoot for the first time. I'm not a hunter and only picked it up for a possible project down the road. The bolt is really stiff, and after I put about 10 rounds of standard velocity box ammo thrpugh it, the bolt wouldn't come back to eject the spent round. I could rotate it but it wouldn't travel back until I let it sit for about 10 minutes. It is an ADL in the black polymer stock. I'm not sure how old it is, though. Any ideas?
 
A while back I picked up a rem 700 7mm rem mag, used. I just recently took it out to shoot for the first time. I'm not a hunter and only picked it up for a possible project down the road. The bolt is really stiff, and after I put about 10 rounds of standard velocity box ammo thrpugh it, the bolt wouldn't come back to eject the spent round. I could rotate it but it wouldn't travel back until I let it sit for about 10 minutes. It is an ADL in the black polymer stock. I'm not sure how old it is, though. Any ideas?
could be the front scope base screws are too long.
 
Will check the screw depth when I get off work this afternoon. As far as rust goes there is none visible, that was the first thing I looked for when I got it.
 
The bore looks clean and crisp, but the bluing on the locking lugs on the bolt has been worn off pretty bad
Coating will never stay on locking rotating parts. Thats irrelevant. Even cerakote would wear. Bolt grease would help, but not stop it.

Did you clean the heck out of it before you did anything? Check screws so they arent protruding into the action?

Hot loads can make it stick too...
 
Questions for the OP...
  • Was the bolt hard to cycle on an empty chamber?
  • Was the bolt hard to close on the first round chambered?
  • Was the bolt stiff to retract starting with the first round?
  • Did it get stiffer with each shot fired?
  • Can you post pictures of the fired cases?
 
clean & grease the lugs & abuts use your lug area cleaning tool, bore scope the receiver area..chk the primary extraction...keep those lugs greased..I think
 
Questions for the OP...
  • Was the bolt hard to cycle on an empty chamber?
  • Was the bolt hard to close on the first round chambered?
  • Was the bolt stiff to retract starting with the first round?
  • Did it get stiffer with each shot fired?
  • Can you post pictures of the fired cases?
1: I wouldn't say it was "hard to cycle" but it was very stiff

2: no it wasnt hard to close on the first round, it got hard to close after around 5 or so rounds.

3: no, it was stiff, but got a little harder with each round.

4: yes it got stiffer with each shot.

5: no I don't think I kept the casings, because I don't reload
 
1: I wouldn't say it was "hard to cycle" but it was very stiff

2: no it wasnt hard to close on the first round, it got hard to close after around 5 or so rounds.

3: no, it was stiff, but got a little harder with each round.

4: yes it got stiffer with each shot.

5: no I don't think I kept the casings, because I don't reload

Based on being stiff to cycle on an empty chamber, inspect the bolt to determine what it’s contacting (could well be scope/stock screws as has been noted). If you can’t remedy, have the riflesmith that needs to check extraction timing perform the task. Fired cases can be a good source for troubleshooting when there are problems, it’s a good idea to save them...
 
Based on being stiff to cycle on an empty chamber, inspect the bolt to determine what it’s contacting (could well be scope/stock screws as has been noted). If you can’t remedy, have the riflesmith that needs to check extraction timing perform the task. Fired cases can be a good source for troubleshooting when there are problems, it’s a good idea to save them...
I removed the rifle from the stock so there would be no stock screws in the way, removed the bolt and inspected the inside to make sure there were no scope screws in the way and the bolt was still VERY stiff. Im not really sure what I'm looking for on the bolt though.
 

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