Rem 700 7mm rem mag, bolt stuck

[MarkO76]

 

[SBS]

Remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt body, make sure it is clean and lightly oiled, particularly the threaded portion of the shroud that the firing pin spring is against. After reinstalling the firing pin ass'y., grease the cocking ramp that the cocking piece has to ride up when cocking. If rough, polish it a little with a fine cratex on a Dremel tool. Other thing that comes to mind is that it just may have a slightly short chamber or the belt on your ammo is a little too far forward for the space in the chamber. Belts on belted magnum ammo. varies somewhat between brands, which can cause hard closing and then tough bolt opening with fairly tight chambers.

 

[rwj]

I removed the rifle from the stock so there would be no stock screws in the way, removed the bolt and inspected the inside to make sure there were no scope screws in the way and the bolt was still VERY stiff. Im not really sure what I'm looking for on the bolt though.

Any scratches/gouges/rub marks on the bolt would indicate where contact is occurring. If you remove the firing pin assembly as wisely suggested by @SBS, I would insert the disassembled bolt back into the action and repeat the cycling test on an empty chamber. It should slide easily and the bolt handle should drop via gravity when the lugs clear the action abutments.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I’m sure your extraction cam timing is off causing the issue with ejecting a case. Many remingtons have that issue.

But can you define “stiff”?
Stiff on opening? Stiff on closing?
Stiff when moving backward and forward?

It appears your cocking piece is protruding from the shroud a good ways so I’m sure the trigger engagement timing is way off making it rough when closing the bolt.

There are fine grit lapping compounds you can use on the threads of the firing pin assembly to make the bolt rotation smoother. Also need to use a good grease on the threads and cocking ramp. Might not hurt to put a very light layer of grease on the back of the bolt lugs too

 

[MarkO76]

I’m sure your extraction cam timing is off causing the issue with ejecting a case. Many remingtons have that issue.

But can you define “stiff”?
Stiff on opening? Stiff on closing?
Stiff when moving backward and forward?

It appears your cocking piece is protruding from the shroud a good ways so I’m sure the trigger engagement timing is way off making it rough when closing the bolt.

There are fine grit lapping compounds you can use on the threads of the firing pin assembly to make the bolt rotation smoother. Also need to use a good grease on the threads and cocking ramp. Might not hurt to put a very light layer of grease on the back of the bolt lugs too

When the bolt is locked down on an empty chamber, it is stiff to rotate open and closed, however once opened it slides easily, before it is fired.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

When the bolt is locked down on an empty chamber, it is stiff to rotate open and closed, however once opened it slides easily, before it is fired.

Yeah good greasing of the bolt lugs, shroud threads, and cocking ramp will help. Unfortunately the cock on close feel will always be there unless you have the trigger timed but grease will still help.

You can polish the shroud threads with lapping paste before greasing too. I do it in two or 3 stages depending next how rough the threads feel. Apply paste to all threads and re-assemble the bolt. Hold the trigger down and cycle the bolt up and down a bunch of times. This way you lap the threads using the firing pin spring pressure. Clean and move on to the next finer grit. Just make sure you clean every thing really good when finished.

Amazon has 3 stage lapping paste and grease. Here’s a pic of the paste and the grease I use.

 

[Walt Krafft]

You possibly have some type of crud in the bolt nose counterbore of the barrel or the end of the barrel. This is pushing the bolt tight against the lugs as you close the bolt. The crud could be powder. I have seen a couple of rifles with the little beads from a desicant pack stuck in there. Check this by removing the firing pin and trying the bolt in the receiver. Still tight you have found the problem. I had one customer gun that needed the barrel removed to get the crud out.

 

[Walt Krafft]

I would like to add, a stock Remington bolt should FALL into place with out the firing pin. Leave the lapping compound alone.

 

[Preacher]

Arrow shows the mark that shows timing is off...

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I would like to add, a stock Remington bolt should FALL into place with out the firing pin. Leave the lapping compound alone.

Of course the handle will fall down with no spring pressure on the threads from the firing pin assembly. That means nothing.

It’s the pressure on the threads that reveals how well the thread surfaces mate and move together. It’s not changing the shape or gaps like you would with 220 grit compound, just polishing with really fine grit to create a slick surface. Similar concept as stoning the surfaces on a trigger.

 

[MarkO76]

Here are some pics of the bolt and firing pin assembly after it was removed. I tried to point out thing with a pick, but it's a little sloppy since I'm holding it with one hand and snapping the pic with the other lol.

Also, what price range should I expect to have the timing fixed on the bolt and on the trigger?

 

[MarkO76]

 

[MarkO76]

 

[MarkO76]

 

[MarkO76]

 

[MarkO76]

 

[MarkO76]

 

[MarkO76]

There was some thick grease or wax in some of the threads, once I cleaned that out with a paper towel and a pick the threads look good (I know that if they need to be polished looks can be deceiving)

 

[Walt Krafft]

Of course the handle will fall down with no spring pressure on the threads from the firing pin assembly. That means nothing.

It’s the pressure on the threads that reveals how well the thread surfaces mate and move together. It’s not changing the shape or gaps like you would with 220 grit compound, just polishing with really fine grit to create a slick surface. Similar concept as stoning the surfaces on a trigger.

No the handle will not fall down if all the clearance is gone due to a bunch of crap in the gun.

 

[MarkO76]

No the handle will not fall down if all the clearance is gone due to a bunch of crap in the gun.

I did insert the bolt when I had the firing pin removed. It slid in and fell down by just good ole gravity and locked into place with a bit of slop front to back that is not there when the firing pin is in