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Alternut Drop-ins (Shilen)

Can anyone offer any advice on this system from Shilen? Is it as simple as removing the current barrel from my Rem 700 SA and screwing in the new barrel and using a go-no gage for headspace? If this is the way its done could I mark my current action and barrel with a index mark - then I could basically have a switch barrel set-up. What twist rate for a 6BR would be best to get the most out of the various bullet weights? Shilen would chamber the barrel with the alternut so I am hoping it would just be a simple process. My action has been blue printed if that makes any difference.

Thanks
 
The alternut system from Shilen is 'just' another version of 'remage'.
Shilen's alternut has two threads with different diameters. The larger diameter is the same as used on Savage barrels the smaller one is the same as used on remage barrels. But, the nut engages the barrel and action just like a remage nut.

And, yes, you just screw off the barrel that's on there now, screw in the new barrel, headspace, tighten the nut.

You do need a way to hold the barrel or action. I've found that holding the barrel, you need to hold the action by hand and that sometimes the action will move with nut and you have to back off and try again.
 
The alternut system from Shilen is 'just' another version of 'remage'.
Shilen's alternut has two threads with different diameters. The larger diameter is the same as used on Savage barrels the smaller one is the same as used on remage barrels. But, the nut engages the barrel and action just like a remage nut.

And, yes, you just screw off the barrel that's on there now, screw in the new barrel, headspace, tighten the nut.

You do need a way to hold the barrel or action. I've found that holding the barrel, you need to hold the action by hand and that sometimes the action will move with nut and you have to back off and try again.
Do you just tighten the barrel and or action enough for the go gage to work and is their a specific torque? Is this system good enough for BR shooting? If not, would you just screw and unscrew a barrel to the receiver as you would for a normal barrel change and then check with a go gage and use the proper torque. I don't know for sure how people change their barrels during a match - curious minds are a dangerous thing.
 
I tighten the barrel/action with a go gauge in the chamber and the bolt closed until the barrel or action stops against the go gauge. I then hand tighten the nut; take the gauge out of the chamber, and tighten to my arm calibrated torque wrench to 40-50 ft-lbs.
I remove the gauge after hand tightening to avoid accidentally torquing the action with a piece of metal in the chamber.

I use it for 'cross the course' competition and it's well accurate enough for that [1/2 MOA is very good for that].
A benchrest competitor would need to address use in that discipline.
 
I tighten the barrel/action with a go gauge in the chamber and the bolt closed until the barrel or action stops against the go gauge. I then hand tighten the nut; take the gauge out of the chamber, and tighten to my arm calibrated torque wrench to 40-50 ft-lbs.
I remove the gauge after hand tightening to avoid accidentally torquing the action with a piece of metal in the chamber.

I use it for 'cross the course' competition and it's well accurate enough for that [1/2 MOA is very good for that].
A benchrest competitor would need to address use in that discipline.


Monte Milanuk explains it similar to this. I did my last one per his instructions. I then checked with my no go gauge. It was perfect.
 
Monte Milanuk explains it similar to this. I did my last one per his instructions. I then checked with my no go gauge. It was perfect.
Right. I like to also check with the no go - especially if the barrel is in the vise and the action is being screwed on. It's not unusual for the action to move as the nut to tightened down.
 
Can anyone offer any advice on this system from Shilen? Is it as simple as removing the current barrel from my Rem 700 SA and screwing in the new barrel and using a go-no gage for headspace? If this is the way its done could I mark my current action and barrel with a index mark - then I could basically have a switch barrel set-up. What twist rate for a 6BR would be best to get the most out of the various bullet weights? Shilen would chamber the barrel with the alternut so I am hoping it would just be a simple process. My action has been blue printed if that makes any difference.

Thanks
Yes it does make a difference if the threads were cut 10 thousands over if the action was trued-up.
 
You can also just use a piece of brass as a go gauge. Assuming you are reloading your own and have no need to shoot factory ammo, there's no need to meet SAAMI or CIP specs for chamber length.
 

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