Accuracy potential of a RemAge barrel???

[TyWard 6BR]

What type of accuracy can one expect from a RemAge type barrel if all is done right? I'm looking to try one and was wondering if anyone had any personal experience. The action is completely Trued already. Thanks for any input.

 

[jonbearman]

It works great. If you search a bit you will find high praises. You will get conflicting reports as the purists think it sucks. I for one think it is great way to put on your barrel with only a few tools and a go gauge. There is a fella on here who just did a magnum conversion on his. You can barely see the barrel nut.

 

[TyWard 6BR]

I'm hoping for at least 1/4" MOA. I'm thinking of doing a switch barrel. Is it possible to get the barrel nuts welded to the barrel after headspace is set?

 

[KMart]

Rifle 1
700 Rem. 6br. 13.5T Bartlein barrel w/nut. Shoots 80 Bergers consistently in .1 to .2.

Rifle 2
700 Rem. 6.5x47L. 8T Shilen barrel w/nut. Put barrel on Wednesday. Shot 6 groups Thursday. Last group was .198 shooting 123 Nosler CC with AR Comp.

For me, they work just fine

Both rifles are not bedded and are in B&C Medalist stocks.

 

[harv50]

Ty, I used to tack weld the nuts on Savage pre threads. And then went to drilling and tapping the nut, and a short distance into the barrel, then a set screw. goes right back to where you have been developing your loads at .. So yes you can do it that way.. harv

 

[TyWard 6BR]

That's great. I was hoping for that. I was also thinking about using Silver Solder to hold the barrel nut in place due to the low heat needed. The set screw idea sounds good though. I've used this method to make my own "Zero Stop" on some of my scopes. It works really well.

 

[fm1947]

Two Questions first what is a RemAge barrel


Second KMART how did you do a barrel nut on a rem 700 with a Bart and shilen barrels, very interesting

 

[Steve Ladino]

Silver soldering is definitely to hot a process for the barrel !!!!!!!

 

[jonbearman]

You simply have the barrel chambered and threaded longer to make room for the nut and screw the barrel in against you headspace gage and tighten the nut with the same wrench that savage barrels use. It basically does away with having to use a gunsmith to fit a barrel. Jim at Northlandshootersupply is the guy to talk to. His number is 1-763-682-4296

 

[mslman]

Not quite the 1/4 inch you're looking for, but 5 shots in that group. That's with 175gr Barnes Match Burners in 308 with PRVI brass. The Rem 700 SA has had no work done to it and it is screwed into a stock B&C Medalist with a CBI 26" bull. it will do that routinely unless I screw it up.

 

[Warren Dean]

The precision of a barrel is often dependent on the skill level of the shooter.

 

[Jeffrey Tooker]

I'm hoping for at least 1/4" MOA. I'm thinking of doing a switch barrel. Is it possible to get the barrel nuts welded to the barrel after headspace is set?

I shoot Savage prefit Criterion's, at 600 and 1000 yards. I have never had one that
did not group under .25" at 100 yards. Of course it takes load development. My smallest group ever at 1000 yards (5 shots during a rifle match) was just under 3.6".
So if you do your part the barrel will do its part.

Once I get the rifle to group (5 shots) under .25" at 100 yards, I leave it alone. After that it is all about reading the conditions.

Please only use the barrel nut as intended. Do not weld. The barrel nut system is quite serviceable as designed, and has been around a long time.

Jeffrey

 

[jelenko]

What would be the purpose of welding/soldering the nut in place?
I think there's enough torque on the nut to keep the barrel/action from moving in/out. I would think that, if anything, the threads might allow the barrel to wiggle. But, then, if they aren't cut right, the barrel might wiggle in a standard install - yes?

 

[Lone Hunter]

What would be the purpose of welding/soldering the nut in place?
I think there's enough torque on the nut to keep the barrel/action from moving in/out. I would think that, if anything, the threads might allow the barrel to wiggle. But, then, if they aren't cut right, the barrel might wiggle in a standard install - yes?

Look at post #5 to answer your question. What some guys are doing is red loctite to lock the barrel nut down so the can take the barrel off and can put it back on same action without having to headspace it again. I don't think I would weld or solder the nut but that's me. You can always put a witness mark on reciever and barrel nut but I would prefer to set my headspace again. If I were to use Loctite I believe blue is what I would try.

 

[jelenko]

Ah, thanks. I read the posts but didn't make the connection.

For me, I'd always want to check headspace - even on 'standard'/non prefit barrels.

 

[urbanrifleman]

My new 6bra barrel. Due out in about 10 weeks. $225.

To answer your question, there is no difference whatsover between a nut barrel and a shouldered barrel if the machining is the same quality and the chamber is equally straight.

 

[2moreclicks]

Old post never die they just sleep for a few years

 

[urbanrifleman]

Old post never die they just sleep for a few years

Hahaha!! You are right!!! I did not see that. That is funny.

 

[2moreclicks]

Hahaha!! You are right!!! I did not see that. That is funny.

I love it went they wake up old threads there’s a lot of good info hidden away.

 

[ShootDots]

Many, many moons ago, when Remington first came out with their 700 SVVF, I bought one in .223 for Prairie Dog hunting. With a 52gr Berger M.E.F. and BLC-2, I shot a group at 100 yards ONE TIME of a 0.096! Never could achieve that again>>>>however, it was very accurate! If you want that Rem action screwed on to a 1/4 m.o.a. barrel, get a Krieger and have it chambered by a competent riflesmith. Develop an excellent load and you MAY get a "mostly" 1/4m.o.a. rifle! But I bet it will shoot "normally" 1/4 to 1/3 m.o.a. over the life of the barrel..