Stock painting a how to

[Bc'z]

Ok folks what do you say we paint this thing?
Stock is prepped in 600 wet, cleaned and masked, ready for final wype down
Black base1st of 4 layers in this job
2nd coat in this custom is a coat of blue candy. This will really rich'n up the black in preparation for the blue glitter pearl.
1st of 5 coats of clear.
And just like that a custom 1 off paint job!!
I'll let this sit and cure for a few days before addressing any dust nibs and buffing to glass.

 

[Bc'z]

After 5 coats

 

[Dud]

What do you do between coats?

 

[Fast14riot]

What do you do between coats?

I imagine he pours another drink

 

[Bc'z]

What do you do between coats?

Wait....
Read the forum.
Sometimes I have a cocktail.
This stock was taking picture and writing in the steps.
This demonstration of stock painting won't fit everyone. I know not everyone has availability to spray equipment.

Believe it or not, it I've painted bumpers on cars with that SATA mini jet and and small contractors compressor.

I'll be painting a Tupperware stock with "SPRAYMAX" rattle cans for my next demonstration from start to finish.
I'm often asked about which is the best rattle can paint to use, and I know this fills in the gaps for folks that don't have access to paint guns or compressor.
Besides, I enjoy looking at what other people come up with, and their ideas.

 

[Riesel]

OK, I have been following this with a keen interest, but now I have a question. I thought I read somewhere that you let clearcoat "flash off", about 10 minutes or so, then add the next coat until you reach the number you desire. If you are going to let dry to need to wait 30 days for a complete hardening. Sounds fishy to me so I spray my three in succession. Am I doing this wrong? How long would I let dry between coats?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

OK, I have been following this with a keen interest, but now I have a question. I thought I read somewhere that you let clearcoat "flash off", about 10 minutes or so, then add the next coat until you reach the number you desire. If you are going to let dry to need to wait 30 days for a complete hardening. Sounds fishy to me so I spray my three in succession. Am I doing this wrong? How long would I let dry between coats?

You can see the clear kinda get cloudy then you know to go again. Hardening is based on reducers/hardeners and ambient temp

 

[Bc'z]

OK, I have been following this with a keen interest, but now I have a question. I thought I read somewhere that you let clearcoat "flash off", about 10 minutes or so, then add the next coat until you reach the number you desire. If you are going to let dry to need to wait 30 days for a complete hardening. Sounds fishy to me so I spray my three in succession. Am I doing this wrong? How long would I let dry between coats?

Flash time between coats varies on temperature and how you set the clear up.
This time of year I run normal hardener and reducer keeping shop at 70° in the spring and summer I'll slow things down.
Yes solvents stay in the film build for a couple three weeks.
Solvent dosen't just evaporate off the top when painting it penetrates the entire film build then comes out, hence the overall curing time. DO NOT TRY AND FORCE DRY FIBERGLASS OR WOODEN STOCKS!!
You'll be sorry you did when they gas off under extreme heat and ruin your work.
I'll polish this stock in a couple days with products that are body shop safe.
They let the paint continue to breath.
Paint sealants and stock tapes need to wait at least 2-3 weeks before applying so as you don't trap any residual solvents, possibly causing blisters and or delamination at worse.

 

[Bc'z]

You can see the clear kinda get cloudy then you know to go again. Hardening is based on reducers/hardeners and ambient temp

I also touch my tape, I like to repeat when its cotton candy.
Basically when you pull your finger off tape and you get long skinny strands of clear.
If it goes to hand slick" no more stringing" you stand the chance of "pinching" your finish.

 

[Bc'z]

OK, I have been following this with a keen interest, but now I have a question. I thought I read somewhere that you let clearcoat "flash off", about 10 minutes or so, then add the next coat until you reach the number you desire. If you are going to let dry to need to wait 30 days for a complete hardening. Sounds fishy to me so I spray my three in succession. Am I doing this wrong? How long would I let dry between coats?

I think I missed part of your question.
Yes you can spray a few coats wait a few days sand and spray a few more and so on.
I'm trying to keep my lead time to a minimum so I spray 6oz of RTS clear on in 1 setting, this gives me and the customer enough product to wet sand and buff.
Today's clears are generally a 2 coat system, I'm applying 5-6, some of which I double up on. Be careful you can run the hell out of it.

 

[Rsadams]

Very nice , thanks for posting....

 

[muleman69]

Beautiful,can't wait for you to do a camo pattern

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Beautiful,can't wait for you to do a camo pattern

Like this top shelf job he did on a carbon fiber one for me?

 

[Bc'z]

Got it buffed out today
Here's looking at you!

 

[USMCDOC]

Got it buffed out todayView attachment 1144016 View attachment 1144017 View attachment 1144018
Here's looking at you!View attachment 1144020

You look so serious!

 

[USMCDOC]

Awesome work Brett

 

[Fast14riot]

Looks amazing! What is your process for buffing? Grits and/or special compounds? I know you don't really use power tools for buffing.

 

[Bc'z]

Looks amazing! What is your process for buffing? Grits and/or special compounds? I know you don't really use power tools for buffing.

Just like blocking primer, I use a lexan stick wrapped in 3M 1000 grit to remove dust nibs and level orange peel.
I follow that up with Maguire's 2000 grit wrapped around 1 of their foam sanding pads.
For polishing I use a air powered 3" buffer with Maguire's M100 rubbing compound and wool pad, I follow that with a foam pad and M100 as my 2nd cut.
Then I finish with Maguire's finishing polish and a foam pad.
Always buff with the edges.

 

[rebel]

I always admire talent, and you sir have more than a little.

 

[Fast14riot]

Just like blocking primer, I use a lexan stick wrapped in 3M 1000 grit to remove dust nibs and level orange peel.
I follow that up with Maguire's 2000 grit wrapped around 1 of their foam sanding pads.
For polishing I use a air powered 3" buffer with Maguire's M100 rubbing compound and wool pad, I follow that with a foam pad and M100 as my 2nd cut.
Then I finish with Maguire's finishing polish and a foam pad.
Always buff with the edges.

You doing the initial 1000/2000 cut wet?

I know quite a bit about polishing plastics, just not sure how much transfers over to clear coats.