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Stock painting a how to

Looks amazing! What is your process for buffing? Grits and/or special compounds? I know you don't really use power tools for buffing.
Just like blocking primer, I use a lexan stick wrapped in 3M 1000 grit to remove dust nibs and level orange peel.
I follow that up with Maguire's 2000 grit wrapped around 1 of their foam sanding pads.
For polishing I use a air powered 3" buffer with Maguire's M100 rubbing compound and wool pad, I follow that with a foam pad and M100 as my 2nd cut.
Then I finish with Maguire's finishing polish and a foam pad.
Always buff with the edges.
 
Just like blocking primer, I use a lexan stick wrapped in 3M 1000 grit to remove dust nibs and level orange peel.
I follow that up with Maguire's 2000 grit wrapped around 1 of their foam sanding pads.
For polishing I use a air powered 3" buffer with Maguire's M100 rubbing compound and wool pad, I follow that with a foam pad and M100 as my 2nd cut.
Then I finish with Maguire's finishing polish and a foam pad.
Always buff with the edges.

You doing the initial 1000/2000 cut wet?

I know quite a bit about polishing plastics, just not sure how much transfers over to clear coats.
 
I just saw this thread, so you may have covered this, but years ago I had a couple stocks painted and a couple months later had a multitude tiny bubbles.
I wonder why.
Some kind of contaminant was leeching out. Most likely the fiberglass mold release agent making its way out. You cant clean a blank enough.
 
i can't wait for Howard Pitts to get my stock back to me.. i am so ready for it to be painted!
 
I just saw this thread, so you may have covered this, but years ago I had a couple stocks painted and a couple months later had a multitude tiny bubbles.
I wonder why.
Possibly water in the air, trapped solvent from pounding on primer and clear without waiting for proper flash times, mould release agent as @Dusty Stevens suggested, or any combination of would be my guess.
If you popped a bubble could you smell solvent?
 
I thought I asked this question this morning, but it was early and Maybe I wasn't fully awake. What, please, are you using for filler?
If you covered this all ready, I apologize, couldn't find it.
Thanks,
Robert
 
Heavy filler20191202_085021.jpgfinish putty 20191202_085026.jpgmy high build primer is also Upol available in quarts.
 
I thought I asked this question this morning, but it was early and Maybe I wasn't fully awake. What, please, are you using for filler?
If you covered this all ready, I apologize, couldn't find it.
Thanks,
Robert
 
I do not know much about painting besides what I learned here this past summer painting a stock I picked up from a local shop for cheap... is this considered I think what they call a 3 layer paint .. base-mid-clear?.... and I was told the newer clears almost resemble epoxy more so than paint.. ? Idk.... i was also told to do everything back to back to back... so I did.. paint was told to wait till it went flat... recoat... mid... give it 30 min after base went flat... than once mid went flat give it 30min before clear.... later I talked to an older gentleman and he suggested next time offer more time between 3 parts .. he was worrying about so much paint/clear shrinkage at once I don’t know... was just curious on your thoughts? Stock looks amazing by the way
 
I do not know much about painting besides what I learned here this past summer painting a stock I picked up from a local shop for cheap... is this considered I think what they call a 3 layer paint .. base-mid-clear?.... and I was told the newer clears almost resemble epoxy more so than paint.. ? Idk.... i was also told to do everything back to back to back... so I did.. paint was told to wait till it went flat... recoat... mid... give it 30 min after base went flat... than once mid went flat give it 30min before clear.... later I talked to an older gentleman and he suggested next time offer more time between 3 parts .. he was worrying about so much paint/clear shrinkage at once I don’t know... was just curious on your thoughts? Stock looks amazing by the way
Sounds like a tri coat if you sprayed a ground color excluding sealer, an effect coat weather pearl or candy then clear.
We also call it a wet on wet operation.
Flash Tim's between coats is critical to a good job. As stated before, solvents will penetrate the film build to the dried cured substrate and slowly evaporate, this is where proper air flow comes into play as this is what moves the solvent away from surface.
I know this isnt even in the same ball park as what your doing bc'z but heres a rattle can camo job on a chassis i did.. hope you can blow it up a little so you can see it.. View attachment 1144179
Looks good to me.
I like the use of natural elements to create the camo.
For my rattle can demonstration I'm going to have automotive paint loaded into spray max rattle cans.
 

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