I don't understand this advice or the logic "Never shoot a dry bore".

[dolek]

Graphite has a Mohs scale hardness of 1 - 2 (pretty low). It’s a form of carbon that when subjected to sufficient heat, pressure, and time becomes diamond.

Thank you for the info .

 

[garandman]

Fluids don't compress easily. A liberal application of oil as the last step in the cleaning process is practically begging for a pressure spike that could easily damage the barrel on the next shot. Run a couple or three dry patches through it as the last step. That will still leave a thin film of oil a few molecules thick to protect and lubricate the bore.

Maybe even dry patch BEFORE the first round fired... if you want significant oil on your barrel during storage...

 

[Mark W]

Fluids don't compress easily. A liberal application of oil as the last step in the cleaning process is practically begging for a pressure spike that could easily damage the barrel on the next shot. Run a couple or three dry patches through it as the last step. That will still leave a thin film of oil a few molecules thick to protect and lubricate the bore.

This is exactly correct!!! I think some here are mistaken the difference between a “thin film” and a sopping wet bore. I prefer to start with a thin film, but of course a completed dry bore would be better than having any standing liquid. The dry patches as a last step are the key IMO.

 

[Barlow]

I shot my 96 Swede 6.5x55 2 days ago for the first time in over a year. The barrel (Brux) was clean, but had Eezox and a patch of Lock Eze already in it. First three shots went into .432 a nice cloverleaf with 120gr BT's. The next 3 were 123gr Sierra bthp match went into .306 at 100 yards. After I clean down to bare metal (as best I can) I run 2 patches of Eezox thru the bore, leave it overnight and run a dry patch thru to get rid of excess. I the spray Lock Eze on a patch, dab the excess on a towel and run it thru the bore. If I use Kroil or oil like Outers I put 4 drops on each corner of the patch with a dropper and run it thru the bore. Some barrel take a couple shots to settle down, some don't. I don't think Savage would recommend using a LIGHTLY oiled bore

 

[Barlow]

I don't know what happened to my post but to finish. I don't think Savage would recommend using a LIGHTLY oil bore if there was an issue. That's what I do, ymmv. Barlow

 

[284winner]

Just before I plan on shooting my rifle (Cold bore) I run a patch with lighter fluid in it down the barrel. It cleans up all the oil and leaves the bore as dry as it is after a couple shots. I typically do this before heading afield on a hunt if the barrel is clean and oiled prior to the hunt. It doesn't throw the typical first shot or two outside the bull.

 

[CharlieNC]

Seems like a straight forward assessment to measure pressure, velocity, point of impact, etc that it's surprising a barrel manufacturer hasn't done this and published the data and results; this would certainly be a feather in their cap and well worth the money in terms of advertising value. Myths and opinions spread and become gospel, remember Slick Willie "tell something often enough and soon they will believe it". For example pull up a chart and you will see water compresses 10% at 50000 psi, which is not what I would call incompressible.

 

[Straightshooter1]

Can you point me to tests that prove graphite becomes an abrasive ? I am very interested in this subject...been using graphite for many years will no ill effects . Thanks

I wish I did know of tests I could point to regarding this. Something definitive one way or the other would relieve me of my reservations for how to use any kind of product containing graphite. The last thing I recall that talked about this issue was in a Popular Mechanic's magazine back in the 70's (that's a LONG time ago - ) having to do with the synthetic engine oils being sold to the public. It and later reports of engine problems for those who used oils with graphite pretty much formed my apprehension. I'm not aware of any issues where graphite is used under low pressure applications . . . only under very high pressure applications.

 

[BoydAllen]

It seems that one thing that has been overlooked in this discussion is whether a bore is really dry after patching out. In the past, for barrels that did not have copper fouling issues, I have primarily used Butch's Bore Shine. IMO a couple of dry patches get most, but not all of it out. On the other hand, if you are cleaning with something that is not solvent based, you could have a different situation. I have never put oiled patches down barrels after cleaning, except for long term storage, and when I have, I put a solvent soaked patch down it, and then a couple of dry patches, and dry the chamber before I shoot. I have never had any particular problem breaking in or cleaning a lapped barrel, nor have I seen any unusual wear.

 

[dolek]

I wish I did know of tests I could point to regarding this. Something definitive one way or the other would relieve me of my reservations for how to use any kind of product containing graphite. The last thing I recall that talked about this issue was in a Popular Mechanic's magazine back in the 70's (that's a LONG time ago - ) having to do with the synthetic engine oils being sold to the public. It and later reports of engine problems for those who used oils with graphite pretty much formed my apprehension. I'm not aware of any issues where graphite is used under low pressure applications . . . only under very high pressure applications.

OK, thanks for the info . I probably have some of those 1970s PM mags, that was good reading back then

 

[Tim s]

I don't like where this thread is going as it may lead someone to believe that oil in the barrel is a good thing. I think the key here is "VERY LIGHT" film.
I use to use lock ease but have gone to using kroil followed by a dry patch or two. Very light film.

Mike,
You have me curious, any particular reason you stopped with the lock ease ?

 

[Tim s]

So, you send the first bullet down the tube' after applying a light coat of oil, which is then completely burned out, as soon as it is fired. That's a fouling shot. What's left after that. Burning oil creates carbon, which is then left in the barrel. I don't understand how that can help.

Why not just Moly coat them? Yes, I know that lots of folks have written that Moly is ruinous in barrels but many competitive shooters swear by it. I put 1600 rounds down a 6PPC barrel and showed no ill effects. Makes the barrel a breeze to clean and still shoots one hole groups.

I am not advocating the use of Moly coated bullets. When I bought that rifle, the bullets came with it. They were Ellie Huber 65 gr bullets. I am now shooting 68 gr Bart's bullets with no coating. As far as accuracy is concerned, I still get the same one hole groups.

This is like the age old question of "What came first, the chicken or the egg." Everyone has their opinion and we all know that opinions are like assholes. Everyone has one. It's a matter of perception. Your perception is your reality.

The thing you miss, for all practical purposes is that carbon, in fact, acts as a lubricant, for all intents and purposes.
What most guys are trying to avoid is clean metal on metal resulting in higher friction and a far higher probability of leaving jacket metal in the bore.
As far as Moly, a lot of benchrest guys went down that road, now the vast majority won’t get within 100 feet of the stuff.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Mike,
You have me curious, any particular reason you stopped with the lock ease ?

Not really. I just never saw a difference using it. I will add that I Danzac coat virtually all my bullets...fwiw....And I don't clean! At least not between cards or even yardages. I just won a National championship and never cleaned the gun...about 150 rounds fired. I've won matches with 400+/- rounds since cleaning, more than once.

 

[Tim s]

Not really. I just never saw a difference using it. I will add that I Danzac coat virtually all my bullets...fwiw....And I don't clean! At least not between cards or even yardages. I just won a National championship and never cleaned the gun. I've won matches with 400+/- rounds since cleaning, more than once.

Fair enough. I still like lock ease as much as anything because in all my PPC barrels, 1st shot is rarely more than a bullet or so out of the group, that and the fact that the carrier evaporates out pretty quick.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Fair enough. I still like lock ease as much as anything because in all my PPC barrels, 1st shot is rarely more than a bullet or so out of the group, that and the fact that the carrier evaporates out pretty quick.

I don't push my way of doing this on others but it works for me and has for a long time. If it ain't broke...

I think, regardless of how well a bore guide fits, yada, yada..too frequently cleaning one does more harm than good. Last weekend, I missed my first dot(all me) and went on to hit the other 23 in a row at 100..UBR. I've yet to go far enough to see a drop off in accuracy since I started coating using Danzac and all of my rifles seem the same...no worse to clean after 400 rounds than after 15.

I think every barrel is a bit different in regard to the first, cold clean bore shot placement. Some will print a little further out than others. Danzac gives me two things...it will print where I want it after one fouler and I don't have to clean as often.

 

[Tim s]

Understand, I, however, shoot naked bullets.
I hear you about cleaning however. When I get a new barrel, assuming it doesn’t copper, I’ll maybe clean once an agg. And as the round count goes up I clean/brush it every couple groups....14-16 shots.
Congrats on the win.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Understand, I, however, shoot naked bullets.
I hear you about cleaning however. When I get a new barrel, assuming it doesn’t copper, I’ll maybe clean once an agg. And as the round count goes up I clean/brush it every couple groups....14-16 shots.
Congrats on the win.

Thank you!