While Remington's QC (or lack thereof) has me completely turned off, I gotta admit that the 783 does look intriguing. The plastic trigger guard is a total deal killer but the action itself does look interesting. Been wondering if anyone has tried to do anything interesting with these things.
Remington 783: Any Potential?
- Thread starter Tommie
- Start date
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Put a real trigger guard on it. Little project you can pull off. Theres lots of threads back when they first came out on the gunsmith board. They seem to work out ok
Some of them are surprisingly good shooters out of the box. What's your end goal with one?
I have one of the 16" heavy barreled .223's that comes with a rail. The short threaded barrel is great for using with my suppressor. It seems to have potential, but what a crappy synthetic stock. For me, it was a $349 rifle to learn things with, like bedding. I put a Remington laminated stock on it I bought on Ebay for $60 and epoxy bedded it, but haven't had time to shoot it since bedding. The thing I like is that it's not a Savage. The thing I don't like - it is heavy. If I had the money I would have gone with a custom 600 or 660 Remington.
When it was new and in the factory plastic stock (it is factory pillar bedded) I shot it with some handloads I use in my AR 15- 55 gr. Varmageddons, some factory 55 gr. Federal soft points, 62 gr Federal MSR Fusion, and some Barnes 55 gr. TSX (Had one called flier omitted). 4 loads, 3 shots each.............and the average of 12 shots was.............0.723. Smallest group was 0.407 withe Federal soft points, and largest was with my Varmageddon AR load. And I'm not a great shooter.
Bad thing is that nice stocks are almost non-existent and I don't really care for a chassis stock. The trigger guard stinks as it is soft plastic and the rear screw pulls through in short order. I found that I could go to ACE Hardware and get a bushing that the factory screw fits through with no slop. I measured and cut the bushing down to the thickness of the factory guard. I put a washer so the bushing wouldn't press into the wood (it was without the washer) and tighten it down. Then I drilled out the factory trigger guard hole with a a bit that fit the bushing and just slip the factory guard over the bushing. It looks good and the front screw holds it tight enough, but I might glue it in the guard one day.
It's simpler than it sounds because I don't have machine tools or machinist skills. I will take it down and provide some pictures and measurements soon. It might benefit someone.
If you are buying one for some cheap fun and learning experience, it's good. I bought mine with the idea of keeping it cheap and using it as a working/beater, not turning it into a high dollar custom rifle.
When it was new and in the factory plastic stock (it is factory pillar bedded) I shot it with some handloads I use in my AR 15- 55 gr. Varmageddons, some factory 55 gr. Federal soft points, 62 gr Federal MSR Fusion, and some Barnes 55 gr. TSX (Had one called flier omitted). 4 loads, 3 shots each.............and the average of 12 shots was.............0.723. Smallest group was 0.407 withe Federal soft points, and largest was with my Varmageddon AR load. And I'm not a great shooter.
Bad thing is that nice stocks are almost non-existent and I don't really care for a chassis stock. The trigger guard stinks as it is soft plastic and the rear screw pulls through in short order. I found that I could go to ACE Hardware and get a bushing that the factory screw fits through with no slop. I measured and cut the bushing down to the thickness of the factory guard. I put a washer so the bushing wouldn't press into the wood (it was without the washer) and tighten it down. Then I drilled out the factory trigger guard hole with a a bit that fit the bushing and just slip the factory guard over the bushing. It looks good and the front screw holds it tight enough, but I might glue it in the guard one day.
It's simpler than it sounds because I don't have machine tools or machinist skills. I will take it down and provide some pictures and measurements soon. It might benefit someone.
If you are buying one for some cheap fun and learning experience, it's good. I bought mine with the idea of keeping it cheap and using it as a working/beater, not turning it into a high dollar custom rifle.
I have a 783 with the damned pencil barrel 
(), it's an accurate gun if you can keep the barrel from walking on you but I plan on making a 20P or 6x45 out of it. Gmac has made several positive comments on 'em, so that's why I went this way. This will be my first build, just have to decide which way to go, and then open up the wallet. LOL. Any suggestions on barrel size, brand, what to avoid, tips, etc., feel free to PM me.
(), it's an accurate gun if you can keep the barrel from walking on you but I plan on making a 20P or 6x45 out of it. Gmac has made several positive comments on 'em, so that's why I went this way. This will be my first build, just have to decide which way to go, and then open up the wallet. LOL. Any suggestions on barrel size, brand, what to avoid, tips, etc., feel free to PM me.JohnHenry
Gold $$ Contributor
Remington announced the 783 Varmint with a laminated stock at the Shot Show.
https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-783/model-783-varmint
https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog...38+783+varmint+bolt+bolt+243win+26+laminate+b
https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-783/model-783-varmint
https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog...38+783+varmint+bolt+bolt+243win+26+laminate+b
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It's a good rifle to play with . I'm well over 20 build and have had a good deal of measuring on them . They are very uniform and easy to work on . Much better than the last few 700s I've measured .
They take savage small thread barrels AFTER you take a few thousandths off the chamber .
Trigger has a 90 degree sear , and can be adjusted down a bit .
Bolt is articulated and the firing pin can be adjusted . Fast lock time , light firing pin and easier bolt lift than a savage . I've made a few as left feed and right eject . Helps on the bench .
MikeT49
Gold $$ Contributor
While I can't speak directly about the Remlin 783, I have done a bunch of projects with this clone's parent action the Marlin X7 (the action, trigger, bolt head, barrels, recoil lug and barrel nut are the same). Barrel change is not very difficult with the proper tools and headspace gage(s). The major PITA is timing the recoil lug. You don't have a "tit" on the recoil lug like a Savage. For lug alignment I now use a modified Wheeler #2 action wrench. I welded a recoil lug stop on the Wheeler, much easier now to torque the barrel nut. You can also make a jig from a piece of heavy wall PVC pipe that has a RCH bigger ID than the action OD. Dremel a stop slot for the lug on one end and drill a hole in the correct spot (good luck with that) to bolt the jig to the front action screw hole. Bolt is 1/4 - 32. You can get short 1/4 -32 bolts (older Harley gas tank bolts) on eBay or make your own with a die. Hard to explain in words but I can't get attachments to upload so I can't do pics. The PVC version works OK, but the modified Wheeler is much better.
I don't know of any replacement triggers. The Pro-fire style triggers, luckily, can be tweaked and with minor mods can be adjusted down to about 1.5 #, no creep, and nice crisp break. You just need to polish the sear and trigger engagement surfaces and swap out the trigger spring to a lighter spring. I use ball point pen springs. Also, over half of the trigger pull weight is the blade. If you treat it like a two stage, not too shabby. You can actually remove the blade (gasp) to further lighten trigger pull. I suspect that may stir up the safety lawyer Nazi dweebs, oh well. Not recommended for stumbling around in the woods while hunting. There is a U tube video on the pro fire trigger. It's for the XT-22 and XT-17. Can't seem to post links either, so you will have to Google "XT-22 & XT17 trigger job".
My index fingers are tired, I'm done. For further info, perhaps clarification, PM me.
Mike
Edit: The trigger pictured in the Utube video is the rimfire version, slightly different than centerfire, however the basics shown do apply. Only do the spring and polishing if required. Most of them, for hunting purposes, will adjust to 2.5# from the box creep free. Only 3 out of 15 so far that I have dealt with actually needed tweaking. If polishing is required (your trigger is creepier than Hilary), polish only, do not remove metal and change the geometry. These are MIM parts, surface hardened only. I use a dremel with buffing wheel and polishing compound. Only change the trigger spring if the pull weight can not be adjusted low enough for you. Both fixes are simple but a PITA. Lots of "jesus" clips. As in "JC where in the flock did that SOB go" Be careful.
I don't know of any replacement triggers. The Pro-fire style triggers, luckily, can be tweaked and with minor mods can be adjusted down to about 1.5 #, no creep, and nice crisp break. You just need to polish the sear and trigger engagement surfaces and swap out the trigger spring to a lighter spring. I use ball point pen springs. Also, over half of the trigger pull weight is the blade. If you treat it like a two stage, not too shabby. You can actually remove the blade (gasp) to further lighten trigger pull. I suspect that may stir up the safety lawyer Nazi dweebs, oh well. Not recommended for stumbling around in the woods while hunting. There is a U tube video on the pro fire trigger. It's for the XT-22 and XT-17. Can't seem to post links either, so you will have to Google "XT-22 & XT17 trigger job".
My index fingers are tired, I'm done. For further info, perhaps clarification, PM me.
Mike
Edit: The trigger pictured in the Utube video is the rimfire version, slightly different than centerfire, however the basics shown do apply. Only do the spring and polishing if required. Most of them, for hunting purposes, will adjust to 2.5# from the box creep free. Only 3 out of 15 so far that I have dealt with actually needed tweaking. If polishing is required (your trigger is creepier than Hilary), polish only, do not remove metal and change the geometry. These are MIM parts, surface hardened only. I use a dremel with buffing wheel and polishing compound. Only change the trigger spring if the pull weight can not be adjusted low enough for you. Both fixes are simple but a PITA. Lots of "jesus" clips. As in "JC where in the flock did that SOB go" Be careful.
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hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
They make prefit 783 barrels that work fine. I put a aftermarket savage barrel on mine but to do this had to deepen and point up the threads a little and you have to make sure bolt nose to breach face clearance is okay or it may need adjusting. These things are much less labor than fitting a blank.
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hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
If you want to use drop in barrels I’d buy a 783 instead of a savage. The barrel nut system works the same but I like the trigger setup on the 783 better. Also aftermarket stocks are made for the 783. Parts are more difficult to get than for a 700
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
Boyd’s makes 783 stocks
When you make them LFRE do you just open up the left side as needed and do you weld in a top bridge for strength ? Thanks
I wish Savage would of came out with something like the Rem 783 instead of their Axis line . I pickup a Rem 783 in 270 back when Rem had a rebate on them just for the action . I had a Shilen 7mm #3 blank and a 280 AI reamer just seem like a natural fit . Turn out great but I had to replace the magazine with their Magnum magazine for it to feed right . The stock had to go also ,used Boyd's light weight thumbhole stock. Just my opinion but the magazines could use a better latch system . As I remember the bolt head recess is slightly different from Savage , You just need to take that into account when cutting the chamber if you rebarrel not a big deal . Since I replaced the barrel I can't say anything about the factory barrel but it's a good solid action for the money .
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