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Case broke in 223 body die and is stuck

I'm not grasping how using a body die is neck sizing.
@Dusty Stevens necks are sized in a separate operation

If the case ripped in 2 with with his body die, its probably time for new brass, or a touch more lube.

A body die is whats used with a neck sizing die once the cases get too tight from neck sizing only
 
Send it back to the die maker or buy a new die and use Imperial. I haven’t stuck one case in 7 years, since I started using it.
My next thought is about your brass. It seems the case was ready to separate, if it came apart in the die. You should inspect the rest of your brass for signs of head separation!
You're right it's all about the brass. rest of this brass was or has been thrown and it all showed necks splitting
 
Try heating the case to the point it loses it's strength like over annealing. It should be soft and pliable enough to get out. Use the heat on the brass. It shouldn't hurt the steel in the die if you don't get it red hot.
 
I have threaded the right size tap into the brass case and gently tapped it out. It usually works.
 
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Happened after 25+ years of reloading . Wanted to give the Redding S Type bushing dies a try . First case in the brand new die and Bam a stuck case . Called Redding , send the die back . They removed it and I ordered their stuck case remover , hope never to need it . Now when I feel alittle resistance I lower the ram and add alittle more lube . My first mistake was I didn't give the new die a good cleaning and anew die in the beginning may need alittle extra lube for the first few . Should only happen once , Good Luck .

Chris
 
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It's a redding die, I'll call them on monday. I did lube the case, but I bought this brass used and out of 60 pcs (it's lake city) 45 got split necks on my first firing .. so the brass had been used pretty hard. Thanks for the advice. I may try the ammonia. I do have the right drill bits.

Ammonia will cause stress corrosion and make the brass brittle. Eventually the brass will fall apart if you pry at it. This assumes you get a lot of stress corrosion. Don't know how long it will take. Use the ammonia full strength. Definitey more than one day. Don't know if it will make the die rusty. Good luck.

I used light vis petroleum oil to lube cases for 45 years. I lube the body, neck and shoulder. I roll the body on the ppad and push the neck and shoulder on the pad without rotating and spread the lube on the shoulder and neck by rotating in my fingers. Never had a stuck case. I run my finger across the lube pad if it's very shiny with no build up of oil it's just right. Too much oil and it acccumulates in the die and you will start seeing shoulder wrinkles. Excess oil seems to accumulate in the shoulder area of the die. Just clean the die once in a while with q-tips or brake cleaner. I worked in the oil business. Don't see why people need custom made case lubes. Oil is the universal lube for equipment around the world. Other stuff may clean up easier. The cases get cleaned with a paper towel, about 8 cases a minute.
 
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I had a 223 case break in my body die and so the upper half of the case is stuck in it. Any idea I have tried lubing it I have tried freezing it. My next thought is to drill it out but I prefer not to ruin my body die.
fill the case neck with paper towel. Get some epoxy putty and fill the case body. Let it set. From the top of the die, use some type of punch, cleaning rod, etc. and gently tap the case out of the die. My Uncle did this to remove a case from a rifle that had the head separate. May work with a case stuck in a die.
 
The epoxy fix is the easiest and most reliable fix. Also, if you have some cerrosafe laying around that will work too. I've used both and both work well. Cheaper and mush quicker than sending them back to Redding.

Rick
 
Done this twice, all from brass that came from a machine gun to run in my service rifles. Royal pain in the ass.
I have removed them successfully by finding a tap that barely doesnt fit the inside of the neck and is smaller around than the OD of the neck. Then tap the inside of the neck and use a allen head bolt to pull it out using a socket over the base of the die.
The hardest part is finding a tap that will fit if you don’t have a large assortment of imperial and metric taps.
 
Redding is known for quality service and outstanding responses to almost any type of issue. THe last time I had a case head stuck I sent it in to the service department. They sent the die back repaired refused my offer to pay for shipping and also sent a tube of imperial lube suggesting that I use it going forward, which I have imperial is great stuff. Instead of losing sleep trying to figure out how to remove the broken brass, let the professionals do it.
 
Unless you want to play with and chance sliding a small pick or such between the case body and die body and work the broken brass out, save yourself a lot of time and possible chance of ruining the body die and send it back to the maker and have them remove it. Cost is probably not much more than the shipping in a flat rate box. You might even consider having a extra die on hand, if this occurs again.
But also remember always apply a light case wax/lube before sizing.
 
Thanks for all the good advice and input I after listening to all of you have concluded that my best option is to call reading in the morning and say what happened in them sending it to them and let them fix it because I do love this body die and don't want to spend 40 bucks for a new one.
 
Just fixed one like this for my buddys hornet die. I used a gunge pin to determine the largest dia. pin that would clear the die body and catch the case mouth. I turned a small pin punch of sorts and used it to press the case out from the top. It worked like a charm. I realize you may not have those resources at your disposal but if not you may take it to a shop and ask them to do it for you
 

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