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+1 for "Skips" die shims

I bought a set of SKIPS die spacers from Sinclair and I know I will utilize them a lot. The purpose for ordering them is that I shoot two different competition guns in 6BR. I wanted an easy way to set up my FL die for resizing for a particular one without the "PIA" of resetting my die lock ring. I simply add or deduct the correct spacers to the top of my press then screw the die down unto it. There is another purpose!
I can correct or measure the headspace by experimenting with the spacers. I had some brass that the shoulders needed pushed back in order to close the bolt. I simply add or remove spacers .001" at a time..run it through my FL sizer untill the bolt closes. So my headspace is with in, at least, .0015" It don't get better than that in my opinion. If my cases get a bit tight, I can simply drop .001" in my shims thus dropping the die by .001" and get the desired results. I'm so happy,,,at least, untill someone shoots ligitimate holes in my theory.
Terry
 
260Ravage, “....get the desired results. I'm so happy,,,at least, until someone shoots legitimate holes in my theory” I do not sell tools, when I see a big +1 post for a product I always think of Larry Willis or a possible friend of his pushing one of his products, 260Ravage, you are not suspect, you are not even on the horizon, and that is good.

When someone starts using shims I believe I can get their attention, I use the feeler gage, the companion tool to the press, as you pointed out the die with the lock ring must be removed to add or subtract a shim, I do not remove the die, I adjust the die to the shell holder by raising or lowering the die with a feeler gage, it is about (saving) time and I have 10 choices between .000 full length/minimum length sizing to .010 thousands off the shell holder + I have 12 additional choices for short chambers as .012 thousands shorter between the case head and case/shoulder juncture.

I also use the feeler gage to adjust the die off the shell holder instead of using Redding’s competition shell holders, Redding Shell holders for case length are supposed to be +.002, +004, .006, .008 and .010, with the feeler gage I have 10 choices, these things do not hang me up 1858 purchased a set of Redding shell holders 2 of them were off .001, I purchased a set of #6 for $5.00 dollars, three of them were off .001 each, again this stuff does not lock me up, for me there is always the feeler gage.

Members of various forms have just discovered Skip’s shims, I adjust the die off the shell holder with the feeler gage, I do not find it necessary to .000 (zero) the die to the shell holder, I adjust the die down to the feeler gage then secure die to the press with the lock ring, seems there was some misunderstanding, I suggested they purchase the feeler gage and use it as a standard to verify, add Skip’s shims then verify the effect the shim has on the gap with with a feeler gage, or forget Skip’s shims and made the adjustment with the standard (feeler gage), then forget verifying.

F. Guffey
 
fguffey said:
260Ravage, “....get the desired results. I'm so happy,,,at least, until someone shoots legitimate holes in my theory” I do not sell tools, when I see a big +1 post for a product I always think of Larry Willis or a possible friend of his pushing one of his products, 260Ravage, you are not suspect, you are not even on the horizon, and that is good.

When someone starts using shims I believe I can get their attention, I use the feeler gage, the companion tool to the press, as you pointed out the die with the lock ring must be removed to add or subtract a shim, I do not remove the die, I adjust the die to the shell holder by raising or lowering the die with a feeler gage, it is about (saving) time and I have 10 choices between .000 full length/minimum length sizing to .010 thousands off the shell holder + I have 12 additional choices for short chambers as .012 thousands shorter between the case head and case/shoulder juncture.

I also use the feeler gage to adjust the die off the shell holder instead of using Redding’s competition shell holders, Redding Shell holders for case length are supposed to be +.002, +004, .006, .008 and .010, with the feeler gage I have 10 choices, these things do not hang me up 1858 purchased a set of Redding shell holders 2 of them were off .001, I purchased a set of #6 for $5.00 dollars, three of them were off .001 each, again this stuff does not lock me up, for me there is always the feeler gage.

Members of various forms have just discovered Skip’s shims, I adjust the die off the shell holder with the feeler gage, I do not find it necessary to .000 (zero) the die to the shell holder, I adjust the die down to the feeler gage then secure die to the press with the lock ring, seems there was some misunderstanding, I suggested they purchase the feeler gage and use it as a standard to verify, add Skip’s shims then verify the effect the shim has on the gap with with a feeler gage, or forget Skip’s shims and made the adjustment with the standard (feeler gage), then forget verifying.

F. Guffey
F.Guffey,
Please reread your post and edit it so it is understandable, and the Larry Willis head space gauge takes all the guess work out of adjusting your die for shoulder bump, you speak of saving time? With the lock ring locked down on the die it is much faster to unscrew the die and remove a shim then to measure with a feeler gauge and run the die down on a very imprecise 14 thread per inch setup, at best it's a guess, I have thought about buying me a set of shims and along with the WONDERFUL Larry Willis tool it would be a snap to adjust for shoulder bump.
Wayne.
 
I've been preaching to any body that will listen to me about Skip's shims for quite a while. I set the dies up with either the .005 or .006 shim, tighten the lock ring, and then have the ability to go both directions with a quick spin of the die.
 
....”to measure with a feeler gauge and run the die down on a very imprecise 14 thread per inch setup, at best it's a guess, I have thought about buying me a set of shims and along with the WONDERFUL Larry Willis tool it would be a snap to adjust for shoulder bump”
Wayne”

Wayne, add transfer and standard to your vocabulary, a reloader does not need a tool Larry calls a ‘Head Space Gage’ a head space gage it is not, it is a comparator that uses an ancient principal, the principal of the three legged chair, think about it, when is the last time you had to level a three legged table, or chair.

If you waste your money on the shims how will you verify their accuracy (add verify to your vocabulary), I can make shims to add between the top of the press and bottom of the locking nut, for the life of me I can understand why I would do that, first! the die must be zeroed by adjusting the die to the shell holder, to accomplish that the locking ring must be loosened (loose, not secured), skip to the verify part? not me, I skip adding SKIP’s shims. I adjust the die off the shell holder with the feeler gage, then secure the die to press with the lock ring. After securing the lock ring I use the feeler gage + or – .001 to determine/verify the adjustment.

Then there are those that compose volumes about ‘in-line’, if my die is not ‘in-line’ I can measure ‘by how much’, it is not my intension to overload anyone by forcing them to think, I can only suggest you think about your statement
“feeler gauge and run the die down on a very imprecise 14 thread per inch setup, at best it's a guess”
If you want to be taken seriously by accomplished reloaders that have other skills outside reloading I suggest you correct that statement, I believe that kind of thinking compromises your high esteem of wonderful tools.

And again and again I ask Larry what standard does Larry recommend when transferring readings from his comparator to the press.

I transfer measurements from the chamber to the press and back to the chamber with out the toys/tools, toys are nice, expensive, not necessary but nice.

F. Guffey
 
Don’t cha just love this guy???

Anyway here’s my question- how thick are these fancy skips shims ? I need to make up .077
 
Don’t cha just love this guy???

Anyway here’s my question- how thick are these fancy skips shims ? I need to make up .077

There are only 7 shims in the set, and I doubt if they reach a total of .050. I suspect you need a singe piece machined to .077.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/1-for-skips-die-shims.3777022/

I agree with 260Ravage. I use the shims on my Harrels press and my 6PPC die. I can switch barrels and by changing shims I do not have to move the nut on the die to get the proper sizing.
 
I’m moving from my rcbs to my Harrell’s compact.
I have a couple of options
 
Don’t cha just love this guy???

Anyway here’s my question- how thick are these fancy skips shims ? I need to make up .077
Forget the Skips shims and Redding competition shell holders, you have entered the realm of multiple feeler gauges.

Is this a Whidden die or a die made in Texas with wide open spaces?

7FfXhJ7.jpg
 
Is press linkage slack taken into account and is that slack removed when adjusting die height with a feeler gage?

If the press slack is not removed, the press, during case sizing, may cause the case head space to grow on work hardened cases!
 
@SPJ, so do you just let the overtravel bite down on the feeler gauge between the die and the shell holder?
No this is just set up.
The feeler doesn’t stay there,
Another way is to use a feeler under the shell holder, the rcbs typically have about .010 to work with.
 

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Forget the Skips shims and Redding competition shell holders, you have entered the realm of multiple feeler gauges.

Is this a Whidden die or a die made in Texas with wide open spaces?

7FfXhJ7.jpg
Kinda looks like my style
 
I like the feeler gauge thing but the shims sound sweet. My lock ring doesn't always come loose that easy. Even with a smack. Where do I get these things? OMG the guff is back, break out your secret decoder rings.
 

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