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South Bend Electrical Problem

tclaunch

Silver $$ Contributor
Bought this pearl, 1945 SB H10 7 years ago, sometimes it would blip, if thats a term, while running.

The barrel switch needed contacts cleaned twice in last 7 years. Hope to find a replacement.

Now it wont turn on. I have a good friend thats a technician for Trane on the way over, said he can find out
whats not getting power.

Wish us luck!!

The barrel in the lathe is owned by a friend who owns an electric company, so I feel like I'll be getting some much needed help....lol
 
Bought this pearl, 1945 SB H10 7 years ago, sometimes it would blip, if thats a term, while running.

The barrel switch needed contacts cleaned twice in last 7 years. Hope to find a replacement.

Now it wont turn on. I have a good friend thats a technician for Trane on the way over, said he can find out
whats not getting power.

Wish us luck!!

The barrel in the lathe is owned by a friend who owns an electric company, so I feel like I'll be getting some much needed help....lol

Go ahead and put a new drum switch on there. Yours may have spare contacts in it- the electrician will figure that out
 
Technician said it was getting power to a start relay, bringing in added help in the morning. Barrel switch is still working, due to power present at relay. The switch is original, 74 years old, needs replacing for sure.
 
If the motor needs to be replaced, I'd second the idea of going with a 3-phase motor and a VFD.
 
Technician said it was getting power to a start relay, bringing in added help in the morning. Barrel switch is still working, due to power present at relay. The switch is original, 74 years old, needs replacing for sure.
Hum makes me wonder how these are wired. This machine is running single phase now? All you really need for that little motor is a drum switch weather it’s single or 3 phase — just wired different. Most single phase motors used for this application use an internal centrifugal switch for the start winding. Some do switch the start winding in with a relay though. You see those in HVAC work so the Trane guy would know about them. Just makes me wonder how yours is wired. It seems the line power would go to the drum switch which would feed the motor and start relay if there is one. I’m sure you’ll let us know how ya come out.

Edit — my 13”” had 4 contractors —2 for the two speed motor and 2 for forward and reverse. Does your machine have hi and low speeds?
 
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Its a 3/4 HP 110 volt unit. The relay is one he kept calling a pancake style like used in lighting. I`ll surely know more tomorrow. I`m blessed to have friends to look after me.
 
Well as it turns out, the red power supply to startup relay was black for 2 inches so removing the relay he found a crack in the soldering below the screw. He re-soldered it, went to Home Depot and brought back new box and connectors and lubricant for my drum switch contacts. She"s back purring like a kitten and I will be betting this will rid the sporadic blip as he said the restart was trying to kick in when voltage dropped. I cannot believe how lucky I am to deserve friend like this. You guys have a good day!
 
Not related to your "fix", glad you found the problem.

Adding a VFD doesn't negate the relevance of the drum switch.
Still much easier (and intuitive) to control motor operations through the drum switch rather than the VFD keypad.

My drum switch is wired into the low-voltage controls of the VFD, keeping motor operational controls through the drum switch, same as original.
 
Well as it turns out, the red power supply to startup relay was black for 2 inches so removing the relay he found a crack in the soldering below the screw. He re-soldered it, went to Home Depot and brought back new box and connectors and lubricant for my drum switch contacts. She"s back purring like a kitten and I will be betting this will rid the sporadic blip as he said the restart was trying to kick in when voltage dropped. I cannot believe how lucky I am to deserve friend like this. You guys have a good day!
glad to hear you got ut fixed- it does get me curious how its hooked up though
 
Not related to your "fix", glad you found the problem.

Adding a VFD doesn't negate the relevance of the drum switch.
Still much easier (and intuitive) to control motor operations through the drum switch rather than the VFD keypad.

My drum switch is wired into the low-voltage controls of the VFD, keeping motor operational controls through the drum switch, same as original.
that is the way i plan to hook mine. but i may change my tune as drum switches new are purdy expensive
 
I have two SB7s, a short and long. I consider a VFD to be wholly unnecessary. If you want a newfangled lathe, buy one. 12 speeds is enough for any competent machinist.
One of the motors crapped out, (Drum switches OK) and since I had 3 phase there anyway, I bodged a 3ph motor and contactor in. If I want reverse I just swap two of the fuses over on the panel =)
 
"If I want reverse I just swap two of the fuses over on the panel"

You can use a drum switch to reverse your motor.
 

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Bought this pearl, 1945 SB H10 7 years ago, sometimes it would blip, if thats a term, while running.

The barrel switch needed contacts cleaned twice in last 7 years. Hope to find a replacement.

Now it wont turn on. I have a good friend thats a technician for Trane on the way over, said he can find out
whats not getting power.

Wish us luck!!

The barrel in the lathe is owned by a friend who owns an electric company, so I feel like I'll be getting some much needed help....lol
This is a pretty good resource for South Bend info:

http://www.wswells.com/data/howto/howto_index.html

Toward the middle of the list of docs there is one titled "Helpful Hints on Wiring, SBL Bulletin 645-B"
 

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