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AR10 Barrel-Nut/Gas-Tube Interference

Assembling a .45 Raptor Barrel to an Aero Precision M5 Enhanced upper receiver, and a tooth on the barrel nut is right over the port for the gas tube, at every torque from 30 - 65 ft-lbs. Do I have any choice but to file that tooth down?
 
Don't file it down . You can remove from the receiver face , very little .
If you file down the tooth it can cause issues using 'some ' hand guards
Make sure you lube the threads and the face of the barrel extension .
If you have access to a lathe you could also remove a little from the face of barrel extension .
I'm talking a very little .
If removing fron receiver face its best to make sure your square and remove it equally around the receiver
 
Remove material from the cheapest part in the equation-
the Bbl nut surface that mates to the extension ring.
.001" should be sufficient.
 
How do you do that evenly?
By dialing the 'nut' in, using your 4 jaw chuck, and using as large a dimeter boring bar as is practical. When putting the boring bar in the tool holder, make it as short as is practical. Make sure the insert is good, and sharp. Then, proceed slowly and deliberately to remove metal from the face that meets the receiver.
 
The US military M-16 manual says to torque to spec and if a tooth is in the way, increase torque until it clears. I don't see why you cannot do the same. Question: How can a tooth be in the way at "every torque" ? What does that mean? Make sure the barrel nut's threads and thrust face are lightly lubed with moly filled grease before assembly.

RWO
 
The US military M-16 manual says to torque to spec and if a tooth is in the way, increase torque until it clears. I don't see why you cannot do the same. Question: How can a tooth be in the way at "every torque" ? What does that mean? Make sure the barrel nut's threads and thrust face are lightly lubed with moly filled grease before assembly.

RWO

You can start at 24:31 if you want to skip to the barrel nut tooth getting in the way.

 
By dialing the 'nut' in, using your 4 jaw chuck, and using as large a dimeter boring bar as is practical. When putting the boring bar in the tool holder, make it as short as is practical. Make sure the insert is good, and sharp. Then, proceed slowly and deliberately to remove metal from the face that meets the receiver.

I haven't got a lathe.

The US military M-16 manual says to torque to spec and if a tooth is in the way, increase torque until it clears. I don't see why you cannot do the same. Question: How can a tooth be in the way at "every torque" ? What does that mean? Make sure the barrel nut's threads and thrust face are lightly lubed with moly filled grease before assembly.

RWO

I mean that once I start applying more than 20 ft-lbs or so torque, the nut doesn't budge anymore.
 
I mean that once I start applying more than 20 ft-lbs or so torque, the nut doesn't budge anymore.

If you have the upper thread/barrel nut threads properly lubed, and as importantly lube the thrust surface where the barrel nut engages the collar of the barrel extension, I have never had the nut not continue to move as I increased torque. And I have tightened a lot of barrel nuts (of a wide variety of styles). I tighten and loosen at least 3 times before I do my final torquing.
 
Assembling a .45 Raptor Barrel to an Aero Precision M5 Enhanced upper receiver, and a tooth on the barrel nut is right over the port for the gas tube, at every torque from 30 - 65 ft-lbs. Do I have any choice but to file that tooth down?
no machining no filing just use barrel nut shims
 
Cheap and rubs this engineer the wrong way. Sometimes you have to take "if it's stupid but it works, it's not stupid" as the right answer though.
barrel nut shims are like a round washer only .001 or .002 or .003 u get the idea goes between the barrel and the barrel nut always works c ya
 
barrel nut shims are like a round washer only .001 or .002 or .003 u get the idea goes between the barrel and the barrel nut always works c ya

I know what shims are. I just don't know who offers ones that would be perfect for this application. I don't know whether the outside of a DPMS-style 308 barrel extension is the same diameter as an M-16.
 
I know what shims are. I just don't know who offers ones that would be perfect for this application. I don't know whether the outside of a DPMS-style 308 barrel extension is the same diameter as an M-16.
CATFUR u can buy from BROWNELLS 6 S.S. shims. part # 084-000-461WB $ 4.95 good luck CHANCE
 
I don't know whether the outside of a DPMS-style 308 barrel extension is the same diameter as an M-16.

The Brownell shims measure 1.005" ID, so just measure the OD of your barrel just in front of the step in your barrel extension to see if they will fit.
 
When torquing, tighten-loosen, tighten-loosen, tighten some more, then loosen. You will gain a little bit more each time. And get a true torque.

Is there a reason why you don't want to torque any tighter?
 

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