• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

How many relaods with 223 brass?

Or you could just plug your numbers into Quickload and get a numerical estimate of the pressure. The results predicted by QL may not be spot on what a transducer would generate by direct measurement, but they are more than sufficient for relative load comparison, estimation of brass life, etc. In my hands, the pressures predicted by QL correlate quite well with SAAMI MAX pressures and expected brass life.
 
I think it is a bad idea to use CCI 400's in an A/R.
I have never heard of these "ring dies" enhancing the life of brass two-fold or more by saving the primer pockets. If I find that this is factual through a high number of people who all attest to this - I will definitely consider ordering one. Frankly, I'm not believing that the die is compressing the cases enough to do this - especially without creating more problems with thinning the cases for separation. It would be interesting to hear more people talk of their experiences with those dies. I do know that, regardless of what kind of sizing die is used, one needs to bump the shoulder at least .003" to provide safe loading. That promotes case stretch on every firing - and the cases will become thinner as a result of this brass flow and the ensuing case trimming. Doing that to a case 30 times that is fired in a bolt gun will end up in the same result. That is why full-length sizing with most any factory die will cut case life in half or more. But this "ring die" not only eliminates the side effects of a factory die - but enhances it 100%? C'mon!
 
I think it is a bad idea to use CCI 400's in an A/R.
I have never heard of these "ring dies" enhancing the life of brass two-fold or more by saving the primer pockets. If I find that this is factual through a high number of people who all attest to this - I will definitely consider ordering one. Frankly, I'm not believing that the die is compressing the cases enough to do this - especially without creating more problems with thinning the cases for separation. It would be interesting to hear more people talk of their experiences with those dies. I do know that, regardless of what kind of sizing die is used, one needs to bump the shoulder at least .003" to provide safe loading. That promotes case stretch on every firing - and the cases will become thinner as a result of this brass flow and the ensuing case trimming. Doing that to a case 30 times that is fired in a bolt gun will end up in the same result. That is why full-length sizing with most any factory die will cut case life in half or more. But this "ring die" not only eliminates the side effects of a factory die - but enhances it 100%? C'mon!

i see youre a neck sizer, huh?
 
I throw them out when I see residue building up around the fired primer (or of course when I see signs of case separation). I load mine on the lower end of the pressure range and I thnk I average around 10 reloads before I throw them out. But I don't really track it accurately as I use my ARs only for plinking.
 
The limiting factor for me in the 223 (bolt rifles) is the rims which are chewed up by the Rem extractors. This results is a lot of failures to eject (sits in mag well) and in a few cases failure to extract (from chamber) at about 4 to 10 reloadings. At 16 reloads I see very few other failures but replace in my Rem rifles because of worn rims. Had a Sako extractor installed on a Model 7 and will see if that minimizes chewing up the rims.

With my Browning A and X bolts there are no extraction or ejection issues up to 16 reloads. I replace with new after 16 reloads as a matter of my own personal preference. Don't have enough rounds through my Tikka T3X yet to make a statement on this but at 4 reloadings no problems.
 
It is interesting how solid a primer is sitting in a case when you feel little to no pressure when seating the primer.

Obviously you can easily have a situation where the primer is so lose that it can fall out by itself, but my point is if you take a "Lee Universal Depriming and Decapping Die Pin", insert it into the case and gently push against the seated primer, you will find that in most cases, you cannot budge it a bit....

Obviously a potentially dangerous maneuver but if you are gentle, you are fine.

Oh yea, OP, please do not use CCI400 .223 primer for hot loads... If you want to know why, do a search...
 
You might move to Tula/Wolf primers when the pockets feel loose with the CCI's. I use brass until I can easily push a seated primer out with a pin I made out of a coat hanger.

How long will the brass last? There's no telling, it depends upon how hot you load them.

As far as loose primers etching bolt faces - who cares with an AR? Bolts are cheap & plug-n-play.
 
You might move to Tula/Wolf primers when the pockets feel loose with the CCI's. I use brass until I can easily push a seated primer out with a pin I made out of a coat hanger.

How long will the brass last? There's no telling, it depends upon how hot you load them.

As far as loose primers etching bolt faces - who cares with an AR? Bolts are cheap & plug-n-play.
The Tula/Wolf is definitely bigger. Too bad they are no longer available.
 
You don't have to shoot max loads to have problem with the CCI400, a lot of people find they have significant flatten primers even at min load. That primer has very thin cup. Most people avoid it like the plague but it's your choice.
 
Oh yea, OP, please do not use CCI400 .223 primer for hot loads... If you want to know why, do a search...
I did the search and there was a lot of disagreement on this subject. I have shot a significant number of CCI 400s in my AR reloads and have never had a problem. But if there is a potential problem then I sure want to avoid the problem but do not want to change unless it is necessary. The Sierra manual shows they used the Remington 7 1/2 for their data. CCI makes a No. 41 that is in a black and white box that says for 5.56 ammunition.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,834
Messages
2,203,952
Members
79,144
Latest member
BCB1
Back
Top