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Recoil lug

If a competition stock is properly bedded, is a heavy recoil lug needed?
And how is the lug pinned?
IMO, a thick recoil lug is of no advantage in terms of accuracy. As for pinning, the receiver has to be drilled according to how the lug is. I like two pins as it keeps the lug from rotating if there is clearance between the lug and the journal on which it fits.
 
If you had a bunch of recoil lugs of different thicknesses and a surface grinder at work could you head space buy varying the thickness of the recoil lug till you got the head space right?
 
Heavy recoil lugs look good. I use .250 because they are common.

Pinning is for convenience only. Can cause more problems that it solves.

--Jerry
 
I cant agree with that, pinning is excellent. I locate, drill, and ream 3/32 holes to accept Borden blind hole lugs. Jim's lugs fit so well you almost cant take them off by hand. Swap a barrel and the lug does not move, saves your bedding job. I cant think of how a pinned lug could cause a problem?
 
If you had a bunch of recoil lugs of different thicknesses and a surface grinder at work could you head space buy varying the thickness of the recoil lug till you got the head space right?
I cant agree with that, pinning is excellent. I locate, drill, and ream 3/32 holes to accept Borden blind hole lugs. Jim's lugs fit so well you almost cant take them off by hand. Swap a barrel and the lug does not move, saves your bedding job. I cant think of how a pinned lug could cause a problem?


No problem if pinned correctly. I've pulled apart rifles with the pin binding. Yes, I agree with your point on tightly bedded recoil lugs. I prefer some relief in the bedding. --Jerry
 
I cant agree with that, pinning is excellent. I locate, drill, and ream 3/32 holes to accept Borden blind hole lugs. Jim's lugs fit so well you almost cant take them off by hand. Swap a barrel and the lug does not move, saves your bedding job. I cant think of how a pinned lug could cause a problem?
I agree with Alex here.o_O;) First, two pins are better than one. Not so much because of strength, which is also a factor...you know this if you've ever sheared one off in the action hole...but because of two pins precisely locating the lug for bedding. If a lug has a single pin and any clearance between it and the journal on the barrel under it, it can move a bit when tightening the barrel. It's near impossible to get them just perfectly where they were in the bedding.

Two pins fixes that.
 
I used to grind factory lugs. Then i realized how much it cost me to keep up a surface grinder and how much real estate it took up not to mention having to refinish the lugs after grinding so now i just buy new lugs.
 
I used to grind factory lugs. Then i realized how much it cost me to keep up a surface grinder and how much real estate it took up not to mention having to refinish the lugs after grinding so now i just buy new lugs.

I keep thinking it would be nice to have a surface grinder but can't dedicate the real estate. --Jerry
 
I have seen Remington factory lugs bent on 338, 375, 416, 458. All these calibers have excessive recoil. The lugs surely didn't bend from we exposure to the sun shine.
 
I have seen Remington factory lugs bent on 338, 375, 416, 458. All these calibers have excessive recoil. The lugs surely didn't bend from we exposure to the sun shine.
...but if the action screws were ever loose. I still doubt it would bend it but at least it's feasible like that.
I admit, recoil and the associated inertia are a lot more "energetic" than most people even fathom them being.

The unsupported part of the lug is roughly .375 tall x .187 thick and 1.100" wide. Maybe someone can calculate how much energy is required to bend one.
 
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I have seen scope base screws sheared off on fast twist big boomers with heavy steel tube scopes but those had thicker lugs in addition to welded on lugs and barrel lugs too. It probably would have bent a factory lug had it been the only one i dont know. Mr Stiller told me of some lug pins that sheared one time on a predator action but he suspected other looseness at play whether it was the barrel or action screws who knows
 
And it works great!
The problem is that changing the lug thickness affects headspace, clearance from bolt nose to bottom of counterbore, clearance from front of lugs to end of barrel tenon and potentially, case protrusion. Those dimensions are critical design dimensions that affect what happens in the event of a case separation and proper case support.

I won't say it can't be done but it does compromise an otherwise very good safety design feature of a Remington. It works great until it doesn't. o_O
 
The problem is that changing the lug thickness affects headspace, clearance from bolt nose to bottom of counterbore, clearance from front of lugs to end of barrel tenon and potentially, case protrusion. Those dimensions are critical design dimensions that affect what happens in the event of a case separation and proper case support.

I won't say it can't be done but it does compromise an otherwise very good safety design feature of a Remington. It works great until it doesn't. o_O

Changing lug thickness would be the same concept of a savage barrel, would it not?
 
Changing lug thickness would be the same concept of a savage barrel, would it not?
Yes and no. Savage has the baffle to handle separated cases and resultant pressure/debris and has less unsupported case.
Changing lug thickness to correct head space works but changes two other critical dimensions at the same time, that are safety related issues in regard to how a Remington handles a ruptured case and over pressure. They don't really apply to a Savage.
 

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